Snap
ArboristSite Operative
It did stretch the job out doing the neighbor's blowdown of the similar size with a 40cc, 2 1/2 hp saw; 16"x2 >20", but was laborious as you wrote.
Bucking Saw Suggestions?
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Snap
ArboristSite Operative
I think the solution has been defined; 50 cc is a stretch, 60cc will be tolerable and 70cc is the preferred fit.
Thanks for the inputs.
Thanks for the inputs.
Snap
ArboristSite Operative
036 pro for the win.
Get a nice 50cc saw, put a 20" bar and some skip tooth chain on it and go cut up your trees. You'll only have a few 20" rounds from each tree and then they will begin to get smaller. In 45 minutes you'll be done, if you don't hit dirt and dull your chain, and you'll have the saw that fits your purpose going forward. Don't buy a bigger saw than you want for one job!
If I'm going out to cut 20" hardwood I would probably take my 562, but if I'm out cutting with my 550 and find that I need to cut up a 20" tree, I just cut it up with the 550. I have any number of bigger saws back at the shop, but it just isn't worth it to go back and get one of them to do up one or two trees.
If I'm going out to cut 20" hardwood I would probably take my 562, but if I'm out cutting with my 550 and find that I need to cut up a 20" tree, I just cut it up with the 550. I have any number of bigger saws back at the shop, but it just isn't worth it to go back and get one of them to do up one or two trees.
GoBigRed
ArboristSite Operative
From what I have come across I agree with the folks advising a bigger cc saw. But there are a couple of reasons. First is, if you are going to spend the money get the most capable saw you can afford. If that’s 50ccs then yes, you can make it work. But if you can get a larger saw, then get the more capable tool. Second, I realized a while back that bucking anything with a short bar is not fun. So I started using bigger saws that can handle at least a 24 but preferably a 28 inch bar. Granted, I run old Mac 10-10s with a 28 and they do the job but I have also done some work to the ports and changed the timing. If you don’t want to get that deep, then get a 60cc saw so you can run a larger bar. There is just no way around it unless you want to nurse a smaller saw and a smaller bar to get the job done. A smaller saw will do it, but it will be a slow and frustrating boat the China.
Either way, we all hope it goes well for you
Either way, we all hope it goes well for you
Backstage
ArboristSite Operative
I like my 70cc saw. I’d rather get the cutting done quickly, and don’t mind having a heavier saw if I don’t have to work it for so long.
My Dad prefers the lighter weight of a 50cc saw.
Of course, that means I spend more time than him hauling logs away from my cut zone to feed the splitting crew. So he may be the smarter one.
If it helps, my primary is a husqvarna 572xp, his is the 550xp. A good compromise would be a 562xp.
My Dad prefers the lighter weight of a 50cc saw.
Of course, that means I spend more time than him hauling logs away from my cut zone to feed the splitting crew. So he may be the smarter one.
If it helps, my primary is a husqvarna 572xp, his is the 550xp. A good compromise would be a 562xp.
50cc pro saw with a properly tuned chain will do a fine job for you.
As said by @Jay Hansen, no need for a bigger saw for a couple trees.
This coming from a guy who would typically use a ported 70cc saw for that..
My BIL has cut wood for many yrs with his old ms290 and a 20"x.325 chain and has cut a lot of wood that size and he's still running it, a modern 50cc saw will be lighter and have more power.
Another thought is a 60cc saw and a reduced weight bar, then only fill it half way. People laugh about filling them half way, but if your wanting a lighter saw, you probably won't mind the weight savings or stopping a bit sooner to take a break to refuel/oil.
As said by @Jay Hansen, no need for a bigger saw for a couple trees.
This coming from a guy who would typically use a ported 70cc saw for that..
My BIL has cut wood for many yrs with his old ms290 and a 20"x.325 chain and has cut a lot of wood that size and he's still running it, a modern 50cc saw will be lighter and have more power.
Another thought is a 60cc saw and a reduced weight bar, then only fill it half way. People laugh about filling them half way, but if your wanting a lighter saw, you probably won't mind the weight savings or stopping a bit sooner to take a break to refuel/oil.
I vote for use what you have if it only for one job. I dropped 39"oak a few days ago with a o34 /20' bar.
biggest saw I own, made 3 buck cuts and lots of sparks ,shot chain. I dug out a old o31/16/ bar/ 3/8 chain finished the job . I took a bit longer but let the saw do the work,kept chain sharp no problems.
I am 82 cant drop start any more but could have finished that one tree with ms250, 026 or 028 , for a
more than a ,few trees yea I would want more saw, but might use what i have if time is not a
facter . Wisewood
Snap
ArboristSite Operative
A pint a pound the world around.
Morty
New Member
Another vote for the Husky 562xp with a reduced weight bar. It's significantly lighter than 70cc+ saws, albeit heavier than the 50cc ones. Reduced weight bar helps more and allows you be comfy with a slighter longer one than you might ordinarily consider, like 28" maybe. I'm sure 24" can be had also. Seems like the perfect compromise between smaller/lighter saw with shorter bar and bigger/heavier saw with longer bar.
aye-aye ron
New Member
Go rent a Makita from Home Depot.
I find them to be overweight, under powered, mediocre saws at best.
120 yards of topsoil was 5K for me this year. Not cheap at all. My vote would be a 362 or 562 or weights a factor.
Get Vintage Poulan 3700 or the clone craftsman 3.7/18
Around here they can often be found for $100 or less and often need nothing more than fuel lines replaced and a carb rebuild
Wonderful bucking saws for that size wood
Amazing torque
Around here they can often be found for $100 or less and often need nothing more than fuel lines replaced and a carb rebuild
Wonderful bucking saws for that size wood
Amazing torque
billyboy
ArboristSite Operative
I cut fire wood for 15 years with a 42mm 028, only saw I had. Now I have 036, 028s, Kita520i, couple top handles.
To me bucking was the most relaxing and enjoyable part of the struggle. My 036 won’t lift a 20x20 round into my
12” I beam splitter laying on the ground or sooth my aching back. A 50 cc with sharp 18“ bar will handle 20” wood.
Many good suggestions here with light bars and skip tooth. But then I’m an old fart with time on my hands and less and less strength and stamina.
To me bucking was the most relaxing and enjoyable part of the struggle. My 036 won’t lift a 20x20 round into my
12” I beam splitter laying on the ground or sooth my aching back. A 50 cc with sharp 18“ bar will handle 20” wood.
Many good suggestions here with light bars and skip tooth. But then I’m an old fart with time on my hands and less and less strength and stamina.
There was a time around this place when the answer to every saw equation was a MS361. Now it seems they are considered close to useless in favor or smaller and larger saws. My how times change.
My point I have been trying to make is it takes less strength and stamina in the long run bucking with a 60cc saw because of the reduced trigger time compared to a 50cc saw in big wood IMHO. TEHO I insist.
Snap
ArboristSite Operative
Exactly the situation.
To quote a movie I saw, "Opinions are like a**holes; everybody has one and everybody thinks everyone else's stinks."
