Building a splitter

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Brad Burnette

Muzzy17is
Joined
Jan 11, 2018
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I am fixing to start a log splitter build. I got me a splitter at the scrap yard. It is a homemade one but it is a beast!. It's gonna need everything ie motor, ram, pump, valve etc. It's set up now to run off a tractor but the ram looks shot. I'm getting it for $90.00, the main frame is worth that. It's rusty but has lot's of potential. I'm a newbie to hydraulics and was wondering how to tell the psi on a cylinder. My father in law has a couple of cylinders but I'm gonna have to figure out what size they are. Gonna take my time and piece this together right. I saw this post below on craigslist and was wondering if I can get it cheap the valve controls of one of these loaders could be used as a multi station control pad. Also would the cylinders or any other parts be worth fooling with. I'm planning on putting a lift on this splitter. Any help would be appreciated. Will be posting pics as I go. Advice will be appreciated.

https://spacecoast.craigslist.org/hvo/d/fiat-allis-345-and-hough-h60/6417937120.html
 
Usually you look for any stickers or markings on the cylinders and find at least a mfg that made them. Generally you should be able to walk into any hydraulic shop and have them tested or evaluated. Based on the hardware and etc they are going to get a pretty good idea of the pressure rating. Unless they look different than anything you've seen they are likely going to know what you've got and be able to find parts to rebuild. I'd probably suggest having the old cylinder rebuilt as it would save time setting something else up in its place as it may have different ends than your dad's cylinders.

I would suggest buying a commercially available detent valve. Most loader control valves are going to have a valve with float and no detent which is super useless for a log splitter app, so you will either have to use the bucket curl function or control your throw on the lever as to not go into float. My cobbled splitter doesn't have detent and it's annoying. I can't think of too many parts on a loader that big and old that will help you. Everything will be too big or worn out.

You need to size your pump, engine and hoses to your expected cycle times with the cylinder you intend to use.
 
Welcome to Arboristsite. You will find a lot of wisdom here. Do a lot of research before you start buying parts. How fast do you want it to move, (cycle time)? How many ton of splitting power do you want to make? Lots of things to learn and think about before you go to the parts store.
 
Common hydraulic cylinders are rated at 2500 or 3000 psi. There are cylinders that are rated at higher pressures but they very uncommon. There are also pneumatic (air) cylinders that look similar to hydraulic cylinders which are only rated for 200 psi.
To determine bore size measure outside diameter and subtract 1/2". Bore sizes over 3 1/2" usually increase in 1/2" increments.

When looking for log splitter parts check the internet new pumps and valves can found at good prices.
You will want 2-stage log splitter pumps .
 
Thanks for the replies. As I said I am new to all this. I a general knowledge of the stuff and am mechanically inclined but I still need some help when it comes to certain things. Also when I look for a motor what horse power would you recommend looking for and is there a certain brand of motors that are more adaptable than others, should I look for a side shaft or vertical shaft.
 
The hp needs to match the pump requirements. Typically 1/2 hp minimum per gallon of pump rating for 2-stage pumps ( 5.5 hp -11 gpm, 8 hp - 16 gpm ).
Horizontal shaft engines are the easiest to adapt pumps to. Vertical shaft engines require custom pump adapters.
Engine brands are buyers choice, all newer horizontal shaft engines are drilled and tapped for pump adapters.
 
I like scrounging parts off old equipment like the loader you found. Only thing is, most the valves and stuff are to big, worn or obsolete to be of much use for a normal log splitter. Obsolete stuff works as well as new as long as your not sourcing parts to fix or rebuilt it with. The cyl on the other hand are usually heavy duty and will have large rods, pins and ports. All good for splitter cyl use. You still have to watch what your getting. Big old greasy cyl's that have been sitting around for a long time might have rust and pitting on the rod shaft. If the hoses have been removed, the cyl bore may be full of water and the inside of the bore be rusty beyond repair. If the cyl is all dirty, but around where the rod seal is it looks pretty clean, well, probably has bad rod seals and the leaking oil kept the dirt and grease washed off. This wouldnt be a real deal breaker when it comes to buying the cyl, but some cyl might have specialty seals and stuff that can be very expensive to replace. Usually tho you can source the seals from a hyd shop without going to the original equipment manufacturer.

The problem with using control valves off large equipment is physical size. Valve banks might have multiple spools and have multiple configurations, such as float, you wouldnt need on a wood splitter. Also, if the equipment is in a scrap yard, chances are the valve will have some leaking around the spools. Most of those multi spool valves can have sections removed to make them more user friendly, such as if the valve body has 10 spools and you only need two spools, you can remove the extra spools you dont need. You would just need shorter bolts and maybe new O-rings. Even if the extra spools are not removable, you can remove the control levers and just cap off the sections you dont need, but you might endup with 50-75lbs of extra weight setting at your control station.

Another thing to watch for when using recycled parts of questionable service life is what are you going to do if you have to replace a bad part. It usually isnt as simple as just swapping in something new, and finding new used exact fit replacements might prove hard and expensive to find. My cyl's I bought for my processor are obsolete old stock I got basicly for free. To buy new replacements from the Case dealer they are over $5000 apiece. I would never pay that kind of price, but finding good used ones might be pretty hard and just as expensive. What will I do if they go bad and cant be fixed. Well it aint so simple, I would endup cutting the cyl mounts off, relocating and rewelding on new ones to accept what ever replacement cyl I decide to use. Lots of major work and a lot harder than just removing a couple of hoses and pulling a couple of pins.

If it was me, I would be all over that used front end loader looking for salvageable parts, but sometimes, even free parts aint the bargain you might think they are.
 
I like scrounging parts off old equipment like the loader you found. Only thing is, most the valves and stuff are to big, worn or obsolete to be of much use for a normal log splitter. Obsolete stuff works as well as new as long as your not sourcing parts to fix or rebuilt it with. The cyl on the other hand are usually heavy duty and will have large rods, pins and ports. All good for splitter cyl use. You still have to watch what your getting. Big old greasy cyl's that have been sitting around for a long time might have rust and pitting on the rod shaft. If the hoses have been removed, the cyl bore may be full of water and the inside of the bore be rusty beyond repair. If the cyl is all dirty, but around where the rod seal is it looks pretty clean, well, probably has bad rod seals and the leaking oil kept the dirt and grease washed off. This wouldnt be a real deal breaker when it comes to buying the cyl, but some cyl might have specialty seals and stuff that can be very expensive to replace. Usually tho you can source the seals from a hyd shop without going to the original equipment manufacturer.

The problem with using control valves off large equipment is physical size. Valve banks might have multiple spools and have multiple configurations, such as float, you wouldnt need on a wood splitter. Also, if the equipment is in a scrap yard, chances are the valve will have some leaking around the spools. Most of those multi spool valves can have sections removed to make them more user friendly, such as if the valve body has 10 spools and you only need two spools, you can remove the extra spools you dont need. You would just need shorter bolts and maybe new O-rings. Even if the extra spools are not removable, you can remove the control levers and just cap off the sections you dont need, but you might endup with 50-75lbs of extra weight setting at your control station.

Another thing to watch for when using recycled parts of questionable service life is what are you going to do if you have to replace a bad part. It usually isnt as simple as just swapping in something new, and finding new used exact fit replacements might prove hard and expensive to find. My cyl's I bought for my processor are obsolete old stock I got basicly for free. To buy new replacements from the Case dealer they are over $5000 apiece. I would never pay that kind of price, but finding good used ones might be pretty hard and just as expensive. What will I do if they go bad and cant be fixed. Well it aint so simple, I would endup cutting the cyl mounts off, relocating and rewelding on new ones to accept what ever replacement cyl I decide to use. Lots of major work and a lot harder than just removing a couple of hoses and pulling a couple of pins.

If it was me, I would be all over that used front end loader looking for salvageable parts, but sometimes, even free parts aint the bargain you might think they are.


I hear ya man, I'm not in a big hurry to build this splitter but it is something I'm wanting to get going. I'm hoping to pick up the splitter I found tommorrow or Fri. The cylinder that's on it has quite a bit of rust on the ram so I'm gonna go ahead and scrap it. I'm mainly buying it because it's on such a stout set up. Once I get it I'll start cleaning up the main beam and what not and get my cylinders and pump and what not as I go. I'm hoping someone on hear or something may have some used valves and such but I'm definetly going with stuff that won't be hard to replace.
 
I hear ya man, I'm not in a big hurry to build this splitter but it is something I'm wanting to get going. I'm hoping to pick up the splitter I found tommorrow or Fri. The cylinder that's on it has quite a bit of rust on the ram so I'm gonna go ahead and scrap it. I'm mainly buying it because it's on such a stout set up. Once I get it I'll start cleaning up the main beam and what not and get my cylinders and pump and what not as I go. I'm hoping someone on hear or something may have some used valves and such but I'm definetly going with stuff that won't be hard to replace.

If you're building a straight forward splitter, buy a standard splitter valve ($49) and forget cobbling stuff together. Not worth even considering anything else.

For Mudd's processor - absolutely.
 
That’s the way I’m leaning. I’m gonna put me a lift on it so I’ll just get me one for the splitter and one for my lift. Do you have a link for the valves for $49.00. Also my father in law was talking about hooking garage door springs to the slide to help with the return. Do you think that would be a good idea or not?
 
What? Do you think those springs will have more power than the hyd system. Your return speed is going to be limited to the size of your ports and size of the control valve. You want fast, go with bigger pumps, bigger valves and bigger ports. Springs will just fly off and put an eye out "Ralphie"
 
Alright here is where I'm at. I'm fixing to buy me a pump. Going to go with a 16gpm pump( which one do ya'll recommend when it comes best price/quality). Also what is the smallest and the largest motor ya'll would recommend for this size pump.
 
For a 16 gpm 2-stage pump you will want a 8 hp. engine. The aluminum body pumps are usually imports the iron body pumps mostly domestic.
Prices can vary widely for the same brand but about $150 is a average good price.
Check for log splitter pumps online.
 
Thanks for all the replies fellers and feel free to save my pic and draw on it repost if you have any ideas for my build. I'm gonna take my time. Listen to some experience and do this baby right. This is gonna get me started in the firewood business and I want this to turn some heads when I've got it hooked to the truck!
 
Going to buy my pump and valve this week. Looking hard at the Rugged Made combo deals. I bought me a 6.5 Predator motor and going with 13 gpm pump with the 20 gpm valve. Just wondering if this is going to be decent quality stuff? I'm running a 4x24x2 cylinder( that rusty one in the pic turned out not to be so bad after all) Any body recommend any other pump valve set up that will be comparable in price and good quality? If all goes well I'm gonna have the splitter going this week. Still gonna add some stuff to it like a lift and some shelves and what not, but I should be splitting wood by next Sunday. We'll see:rock2:
 
Bought my pump and valve yesterday. I actually went down to an 11 gpm pump with a 25 gpm valve an auto detention. I went with the ll gpm pum because I figured it would be a little easier on my motor and also a few good commercial splitters use that size pump and they work awesome. I’ll Stuff should be here by Thursday or Friday. Gonna be putting the splitter together this weeend. Pics coming soon!
 

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