Building a wood splitter, I need some opinions please

[dlb1999]

Log splitter done, works better than expected

I completed the splitter a couple of months ago but have now just got around to posting about it. I don't have any good pics yet, the next time I take it out, I'll get some good pics and maybe even a video.
It works better than expected. This is coming from someone who have never been around wood splitting before (other than with a maul!).
I copied several different designs and it also has some of my own ideas and ideas from a friend at work who is very innovative.

My components: -8 hp Briggs and Stratton Engine (New Old Stock from the 80's) It was missing a carb so I got a new one and put it on. It runs great.
- New Dynamic 16 gpm two stage pump. (ebay)
-New Prince hydraulic valve, two spool. Splitter spool is a simple three position with detent for cylinder return. Log lift spool is a
three postition. Main relief set at 3000 psi. (Surplus Center)
-Force America Hydraulic tank (@25 gal)
- Used 3 1/2" bore by 24" stroke cylinder from a Troy-built log splitter
- 6" wide I-beam, 3/8" thick
- Surplus 18" stroke cylinder for log lift (2" bore, I think)
- Old small trailer frame. Original leaf spring mounted axle failed after first time out. (hub failure) Replaced with a rigid drop axle, cut
and modified for frame width.
- Used rims from a Jeep, tires from ?
- and various other components

We split logs up to 24" in diameter and it did great. We put two logs 24" diameter and @22" long on the lift and it brought them right up with no problem. When doing small logs, the lift is positioned level with the beam and serves as a table to set logs to be split and slide logs back into the splitter that must be split multiple times. The wedge is made of two pieces of loader bucket cutting edge, welded back to back. The wedge has a small "pre-wedge" that protrudes from it that is made from super-hard wear plate to aid in penetration of tough logs.

Pics to come soon, I hope. It doesn't look like much (did not spend the time to paint the whole thing) but it works great and that's all that counts.

 

[dlb1999]

finally some pics

I finally got around to posting some pics. We split about 5 cords of wood this fall and it did great. A mixture of dead elm, black cherry, oak, and hedge. BTW the hedge is burning great in my little Vogelzang Shiloh stove. The little bugger heats our house up to 80 degrees if you don't keep an eye on the damper. This is my first year cutting, splitting, and heating with wood. We have had a blast doing it and my saws ran great. 'Bought a Husqvarna 335xpt on ebay (for de-limbing and small work) and have put more money into it than it is probably worth but now it runs good and I learned my lesson. The lesson is- when somebody says the saw "runs good" they forgot to mention that the chain brake was trashed, carb needed rebuilt, intake tube was torn, and crank seals were bad (crankcase wouldn't a hold a bit of pressure or vaccuum). Anyway, here are my pics:

View attachment 269025View attachment 269026View attachment 269027View attachment 269028View attachment 269029

two more pics in the next post

 

[dlb1999]

two more pics

Two more pics of my homemade splitter.
View attachment 269030View attachment 269031

The only things I have left to do are: mount spare tire (this is done since I took the pics), install guards around exhaust piping, muffler, and engine/pump shaft, and a few other light mods/improvments. Other than that it is done. My friend told me not to paint it because then someone will steal it !! If you leave it cruddy looking, they'll think it is a piece of junk and leave it.

 

[radroy92]

Good Splitter

Two more pics of my homemade splitter.
View attachment 269030View attachment 269031

The only things I have left to do are: mount spare tire (this is done since I took the pics), install guards around exhaust piping, muffler, and engine/pump shaft, and a few other light mods/improvments. Other than that it is done. My friend told me not to paint it because then someone will steal it !! If you leave it cruddy looking, they'll think it is a piece of junk and leave it.

She looks like a beast! I bet quiet too with that auto muffler. I haven't painted mine yet, just primer. Keeps it a few pounds lighter for when you are moving it. ;-)

I know what you mean about being able to heat your home all winter from the work you did with you own two hands. It's a good feeling.

Merry Christmas,

Roy

 

[dlb1999]

She looks like a beast! I bet quiet too with that auto muffler. I haven't painted mine yet, just primer. Keeps it a few pounds lighter for when you are moving it. ;-)

I know what you mean about being able to heat your home all winter from the work you did with you own two hands. It's a good feeling.

Merry Christmas,

Roy

Thanks Roy. The good feeling continues as I just but a couple big slabs of black cherry in my stove and I'm headed to bed.
Good night and Merry Christmas to you.

Oh I guess the work is never done. I ran across some "under construction" pics of my splitter. See next post.

 

[dlb1999]

"under construction" pics of splitter

I found a few pics of my splitter while it was being built:
Here is a front and rear view of my wedge. It is two pieces of old loader bucket cutting edge welded back to back. I added a small, hardened steel protrusion to the edge to aid in penetration. I have no regrets about putting the wedge on the beam instead of on the ram. I like how the split pieces are pushed and come off the end of the beam, instead of dropping back near the cylinder.
View attachment 269152View attachment 269153

Here is my pusher. Very simple design made of 1" plate. I built a yoke for the cylinder so it mount to the wedge more universally. This was just in case I upgraded cylinders, I could easily mount a cylinder with yoke ends using 1" diameter pins.
View attachment 269154

Here is where my the barrel end of the cylinder mounts to the beam.
View attachment 269155

The beginning of my log lift pivot. 1" cold rolled shaft on pillow block bearings.
View attachment 269156

continued in next post

 

[dlb1999]

more "under construction" pics

Valve mounting and some plumbing.
View attachment 269157

Engine/Pump arrangement.
View attachment 269158

Engine/Pump mounting plate isolated with rubber buffers.
View attachment 269159

 

[radroy92]

I found a few pics of my splitter while it was being built:
Here is a front and rear view of my wedge. It is two pieces of old loader bucket cutting edge welded back to back. I added a small, hardened steel protrusion to the edge to aid in penetration. I have no regrets about putting the wedge on the beam instead of on the ram. I like how the split pieces are pushed and come off the end of the beam, instead of dropping back near the cylinder.
View attachment 269152View attachment 269153

Here is my pusher. Very simple design made of 1" plate. I built a yoke for the cylinder so it mount to the wedge more universally. This was just in case I upgraded cylinders, I could easily mount a cylinder with yoke ends using 1" diameter pins.
View attachment 269154

Here is where my the barrel end of the cylinder mounts to the beam.
View attachment 269155

The beginning of my log lift pivot. 1" cold rolled shaft on pillow block bearings.
View attachment 269156

continued in next post

You really build stuff right. Nice and heavy too. Good design ideas!

Roy

 

[radroy92]

Valve mounting and some plumbing.
View attachment 269157

Engine/Pump arrangement.
View attachment 269158

Engine/Pump mounting plate isolated with rubber buffers.
View attachment 269159

Well done on these too. I think you just about have to rubber mount a Briggs engine. I blew up my old 8 hourse and went to a Harbor Freight 13 horse and they run much smoother. The HF engine dropped right in the old mounting holes and the shaft was the same size for the pump and adapter plate holes. Easiest engine swap I ever did.

Have you seen my build? Sorry it's sort of long and a lot of pictures: http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/158031.htm

Roy

 

[dlb1999]

Well done on these too. I think you just about have to rubber mount a Briggs engine. I blew up my old 8 hourse and went to a Harbor Freight 13 horse and they run much smoother. The HF engine dropped right in the old mounting holes and the shaft was the same size for the pump and adapter plate holes. Easiest engine swap I ever did.

Have you seen my build? Sorry it's sort of long and a lot of pictures: http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/158031.htm

Roy

I remember looking at your build some months ago and was impressed with your design as well. The forum was such a big help in building my splitter.
Although I have not posted very much until lately, I did a lot of reading and looking at pictures. Thanks to great people like you who have a passion for firewood, everything turned out great.

 

[mrnecsteve]

Thanks, everybody for your advice.
I did not mention that I already have a 3 1/2" bore cylinder that was given to me for free.
I was not going to use it because I thought that it was too small although it will probably work fine for most of wood I'll be splitting.
But I came up with another idea today. I'm going to go ahead and use the 3 1/2" cylinder I have but I'm going to use
quick couplers for the hydraulic connections and I'll have quick-release keepers on the pins. I'm going to buy a 4 1/2" or 5" cylinder
that I can quickly swap with the 3 1/2" one.
All split all of my 'easy' wood with the 3 1/2" and then save my big knotty chunks for last and switch
to the bigger cylinder. This way, I can take advantage of a fast cycle time when splitting smaller logs.

I hope it works out.

Much of youre design should be based on what kind of wood are you splitting most,vertical or horizontal, and what size and length of logs will
you be splitting most.
example:
My splitting is mostly vertical because most of what I split is oak from 8 inch up to the occasional 24 inch green and wet log . The logs are simply too heavy to think about lifting and sometimes weigh a couple hundred pounds. All of my wood is rolled around like a barrel onto the splitters heavy backing plate. My actual wedge is shaped steel 3 inches thick by 6 inches,made of shaped 1/2 inch steel and sits on the ram side.This setup is perfect for green oak because typically when I start the stroke ,usually i only need about 8-10 inches of travel before the split runs the full length of a 24 inch log. As the backing plate sits above ground by a minimum 1 inch, it takes minimum effort to complete the split by hand as the end of the log is overhanging. (When I am operating the splitter I am typically sitting on a log stump or wheeled mechanic stool) I make 4-12 strokes on each log ,rotating as I need it. I am able to chuck the wood into a pile or a trailer without getting up. If i have a helper,the helper will roll the logs into arms reach for me.Because the wedge is three inches wide,it takes full advantage of the two stage pump. Retract speed doesnt matter in my situation whatsover because the ram will auto retract and shutoff before i have the next log in place. For those stringy logs that still stay together, a campers hatchet is kept close by , but out of the way.For the really tough large logs,up around 3 feet, I will bury the wedge until it stops and take a short break.(20ton 4 inch with a 5 hp motor) Give it a little time and the split will slowly spread from one side of the log to the other. I have not encountered a log that I could not split IF i was able to barrel roll it into position.
I can easily do a ten foot log cut into 5 pieces weighing a total of 750-800 pounds in about a half hour IF i dont tire out first.For me moveing the wood around consumes most of the TIME and effort.
You have plans for a two stage pump with a pretty good size motor and pretty good flow. I suspect you will find IF youre wedge is sufficiently wide a 3.5 inch useing a two stage pump will be more than adequate for most softer woods. With a three inch by 6 inch wedge you wont
need to use long strokes MOST of the time on oak ,poplar,beech,walnut apple and cherry. Maple might be a challenge,depends on the grain.
If youre waiting for the wood to fully cure before splitting its going to be a challenge too. i dont wait for that to happen . I like for the wood to dry as fast as possible and often split where its fallen.
I am contemplating building a splitter that will run off my skid loader . The base and ram will have two 1 inch studs for picking the log up first,
then splitting over top of a trailer.... I am THAT lazy!!!!:msp_rolleyes:

 

[dlb1999]

That's the great thing about building your own splitter. It can be built exactly to fit one's particular needs. As for myself, I have plenty of help. (my wife and 8 kids, 5 of which are old enough to help) Our splitting sessions have always been a whole family event. My wife or myself usually runs the valve while two others stand on each side of the wedge. The person on the log lift side feeds and positions the log and the one on the opposite side catches the properly sized split pieces and hands them to a stacker or loader. My dad, brother, brother-in-law, and father-in-law have helped as well.
Some people labeled my log lift as "overkill" and said that I should have made a horizontal-vertical design while other praised it. The log lift has proven to be the most useful part of the splitter since it serves a dual purpose. When not lifting logs, I leave it in the horizontal position and it lays perfectly level with my I beam. 4, 5, or 6 small logs can be stacked on it, waiting to be split while not getting in the way of what is being split. We are going to be taking down a big tree after Christmas, I try to post some pics of the splitter in action after that.

 

[farmboss45]

I am building a wood splitter basically from scratch.
I will be using an 8HP Briggs and Stratton motor with 16 gpm two stage pump. (minimum size engine for this pump)
My splitting wedge will be stationary, welded to the end of the beam.
I am trying to decide what size cylinder to buy. I don't know whether to use a 4" bore, 4 1/2", or 5".
I researched several manufactured log splitters and compared specs. The northern star ones from northern tool use a 5" for 16gpm pump but the
motor they are using is bigger than an 8 horse. I want to have good cycle times and splitting power but I don't want to bog the motor down all of time.
Since I am using the minimum size motor for this pump should I stick to a 4" cylinder??

Also- my I-beam has 3/8" thick flanges and web. The flanges are 6" wide. I forgot to measure the height of the beam but I would guess it is 8 or 10" tall.
Maybe a 4 1/2" or 5" cylinder would be too much for my beam?

I really need some advice from someone who is experienced with designing and building log splitters.

Thanks.

Make sure you go to the firewood forum and check out the homemade splitter thread, TONS of good ideas, pics and cool stuff. I ordered most of my stuff from surplus center.com, and Bailey's. Think about height of the work station, and anything that helps your back, ei...log lift and splitt table. Good luck on your project, pics, pics, pics.....