Building shed for firewood

[thepheniox]

Hi all, I've been building a wood shed out of some wood I milled. The thing is looking awesome. I have the sides up and roof framed in, but I am wondering what would be best for roofing material tin, shingles, or I am thinking about using that green coragated plastic stuff. I think that it might actually heat the shed up a bit and dry the wood more, almost like a kiln. Anyone else ever do this and how did it work. I will try to post pictures later but I have lots of air movement through the shed so that won't be a problem with trapping the humidity in.

 

[mo239]

I'd say shingles, pretty simple to install, and sometimes can be found cheap if you don't care about colors.

 

[woodguy105]

Where are the pics?!

 

[thepheniox]

OK I tried to get photos up but I can't get it to work the file size is to big. I will try again later when I have more time.

 

[Blowncrewcab]

I just built a wood shed thats 31' long by 24' wide, No sides, just a roof, on one side the roof is the clear corrogated plastic so the sun can shine in on the wood, the other side is galvanized metal so I can work in the shade. Best part is I can fit my 16' trailer in and have the log splitter behind it, when it's raining I can be out there splitting and stacking. now I just need to add lights and a fan and I'll never have to leave. I have some pics, I'll have to dig them up and post them..

 

[caotropheus]

A couple of years ago, I built a firewood shed (precisely, just the roof, no walls) out of steel and tin.




thepheniox,

Since you build your shed in wood using your own resources, I would suggest to use shingles to keep it cheap.

 

[GlennG]

My shed has a metal roof. 6x6 posts. Survived record snow this winter.

 

[Sawmill]

When I built mine I used corragated fiberglass like is used on a greenhouse. I think it does heat the shed up and dry the wood faster

 

[logbutcher]

The corregated fiberglass strips are not cheap. This pole wood shed, 6 cord capacity, has been up for almost 10 years. The fiberglass strips are not very sturdy, falling branches can poke holes, heavy ice can crack them. I should have gone with cheaper or free, used barn metal roofing or even shingles for durability. Also, the fiberglass roofing requires a special, fitted installed "footing" that was a PITA to build.

 

[Sawmill]

The fiber glass panels I used we off a greenhouse and I bought them for a 1.00 each and they covered 4 foot wide and 14 foot long. I wish I had bought more of them. They went on just like laying steel roofing and are yellowed from use but use to be clear. I have had some limbs fall on them but have never had a hole punched in one yet, but this was a concern I had when I used them. For the rafters in my shed I had a semi load of red pine logs stting here so I cut them on the mill to 8X8's and used this for the rafters and then I spaced 1X6 boards 12 inches apart as nail strips for the fiberglass. I used what ever I had on hand and the only thing I bought was a door track and some hinges. My posts are all 8X8's made out of electric poles that I traded for a saw mill job. I just cut flats on them.

 

[Shifty Eyed]

If you really want to keep costs down, then look for mineral paper. It's like one giant shingle all rolled up. One roll is 3'x25' and only costs about $14.

 

[MJR]

What mill do you have?

 

[Sawmill]

Woodmizer LT 40 with shop built Hydraulics

 

[MJR]

I will trade you for my LL24 (joking). You have a great mill.