Buying a new chainsaw

[CTYank]

To be honest, if once a week/ all day use is your intention, I would definately look at a new saw. That amount of cutting warrents a new saw. No idea if you have experience at rebuilding saws, but used equipment, irrespective of how good it looks, is always prone to early failure! If you don't buy from a experienced person the chances are high that you might get garbage!

First off I would contact one of the well respected rebuilders or dealers here at this site to see what they have. Names like "nmurph, tladrum, etc." guarentee integrity! I would without a doubt buy from one of those fellows!

Second, if you don't find a product you like I would buy a brand new saw of known quality. Brand names I trust and use are:
Dolmar=Makita, Efco=Oleo Mac, Echo=Shindaiwa, Husqvarna=Jonsered=Red Max=Zenoah, Solo, Stihl, Tanaka=Hitachi

What would I buy on a budget?
For 60cc:
Echo 590 (~400$), Dolmar 6100(~500$), Echo 600/620(~550$), Husqvarna 555(~600€)
For 50cc:
Mc Culloch 5020(~200$), Dolmar 510/5105, Echo 510/520/530, Husqvarna 545

Good luck!

7

Mebbe you mean "Poulan Pro" PP5020? Don't get hung up on the "pro" stuff. I've got a lot of hours on one in big wood in the 2.5 years I've had one. Couple of inches narrower (that stupid "soft-start" stuff!) and a pound or two lighter, and it'd be near-perfect. For $200!!!

 

[splitpost]

I found a farm boss ms290 for 275 used there is one for 250 in excellent condition.



arent the 026 a lower model than the o28 super?
I'm the reason im staying with stihl is because there is a full service dealer here.




Arent those old saws from stihl like the 0 models? are those pro models? is the 028 av super a pro model? how do i determine if they are pro models?


How do i determine a pro style build? I was under the impression that the 024 026 and ms260 are all not pro builds? the ms 280 and 290 are far bigger saws than those you listed of the pro models? im not completely sure. I would actually want to go with something closer to the 4hp range even a little over would be nice that is a pro quality meaning commercial quality?




atleast once a week all day, sometimes even 2 - 3 times a week all day. THIS SAW IS GONNA GET A BEATING hence i dont wanna buy a new saw.

just a rough guide that I follow is ,if the model starts with "0" and the rear handle is white with the black insert you should be right,if it orange and plastic its a clamshell,but ifts its orange and made of ally then its an older model and most likely a pro type saw,
later the model numbers change to ms__0 white handle is pro saw orange is homeowner,it gets interesting when model numbers end in a 1 or 2 eg,ms311 home owner,ms441 pro saw,is your head spinning yet,hahaha just ask back here or your mates at the stihl dealer ,some one can confirm what it is

 

[fearofpavement]

A Stihl saw of the size you want is going to be difficult to find for your price range. Example:
I just sold (two days ago) an 039 for $350.00. The man came to buy an MS290 I had for sale for $225 but after cutting some cookies with one and then the other and then trying the other once again, he spent the extra $125 to move up to a more powerful saw (same saw, different engine size)

the 029/MS290 will run a 20" bar in .325 chain and are often equipped that way. It is not the right saw if you're going to be cutting 20" wood all the time. The MS310 has 59cc (compared to 56 for the MS290) and the 039/MS390 has about 65cc.

These farm/ranch saws aren't nearly as lame as many on here make them out to be. They'll last for years and cut anything you need cut but they're not a pro saw. (even though tens of thousands of them are in use commercially)

The 0 saws you are referring to were made by Stihl for a long time and just because it has a 0 in front of it doesn't really indicate its age. For instance the 026, 036, 044, 046, 066, and 088 aren't that ancient. The 08, 031, 032, 041, 070, etc are much older saws. (even those cut well however)

Why don't you share exactly what you anticipate cutting?

 

[regulate34]

atleast once a week all day, sometimes even 2 - 3 times a week all day. THIS SAW IS GONNA GET A BEATING hence i dont wanna buy a new saw.

If you want to beat up saws why don't you buy some cheep saws and toss them when they break
If you are going to beat a saw up it don't matter if you have a Poulan "wild thing" or a MS660 it wont last

a properly cared for saw will last a long time.

 

[wafi zarudin]

Im just going out in the woods and cutting trees down... Seriously what else can i cut with a chainsaw? other than trees? i just wanna cut some damn trees down with a stihl. The most help i got was from cgraham1, he listed pro models from the engine size i needed, and what are not pro models, and what he advised. Thanks for all the input helped a bunch guys :thumbsup

 

[Mattyo]

"Im just going out in the woods and cutting trees down" I'm understand the sentiment but this statement is ambiguous and presumptive at best. are you logging redwoods? or cutting a 100 acres of saplings? or have half an acre of land and want to cut down a 20" pine? or sometime else inbetween? the more specific you can be with your intended purpose, the better direction this forum can give you.
best of luck whatever you decide on
-Matt

 

[Brush Ape]

Im just going out in the woods and cutting trees down... Seriously what else can i cut with a chainsaw? other than trees? i just wanna cut some damn trees down with a stihl. The most help i got was from cgraham1, he listed pro models from the engine size i needed, and what are not pro models, and what he advised. Thanks for all the input helped a bunch guys :thumbsup

Hey hold your horses, dude. You got help from plenty of these guys from various parts even Austrailia and Austria. Stihl is the best.

 

[nmurph]

Got a husky 346xp from nmurph a year or more ago, got at least a hundred tanks thru it. My go to saw with an 18 bar, can do 90% of my cutting with it.

Man, why you mistreatin' my saw like that?

OP...you should be looking for a 261 or 034. Those are the two creamsickle models that fit you criteria and are plentiful.

 

[sawfun]

The 024, 026, and 028 are pro saws. The 026 is newer, faster, and lighter than the 028. The super on the 028 means it is slightly larger at 51cc's vs 47cc's for the 026 and 42cc's for the 024. I have all three and the 026 is the best of them having the 024's weight and rpm and the 028's torque.

 

[Brush Ape]

The 024, 026, and 028 are pro saws. The 026 is newer, faster, and lighter than the 028. The super on the 028 means it is slightly larger at 51cc's vs 47cc's for the 026 and 42cc's for the 024. I have all three and the 026 is the best of them having the 024's weight and rpm and the 028's torque.

48.7 CC. I've had a dozen of these. The only one I ever bought new around '98 before and after some aftermarket work on my bench:

Last Fall After 300 cords stock Mahle:


Spring after Meteor Kit. Still largely stock #'s:

 

[regulate34]

New question adding also,

What are pro model stihls? how do I determine if its a pro model vs home vs ranch vs whatever.
I'm looking for comercial grade stihl saw from 3.5 - 4hp that can run 20" bars. Sorry guys my heart is set on stihl just because most of my friends work at the stihl service.

Most your friends work at a stihl dealer. Maybe ask them.

BTW being open minded goes a long way when asking for advice.

 

[redoakneck]

Man, why you mistreatin' my saw like that?

OP...you should be looking for a 261 or 034. Those are the two creamsickle models that fit you criteria and are plentiful.

4 more tanks yesterday!!! weather has been kick azz Got her in some thorny honey locust with ants and extra poison ivy!!!!

I did clean her off with the air compressor, so not too badly mistreated, might spoil her with a sharp chain one of these days--LOL

 

[Mike from Maine]

I don't know why anyone is trying to talk you out of a 290. It's awesome. Buy two if you can find them. Now that they are discontinued they'll be scarce, hard to find and in demand.

 

[slowp]

Im just going out in the woods and cutting trees down... Seriously what else can i cut with a chainsaw? other than trees? i just wanna cut some damn trees down with a stihl. The most help i got was from cgraham1, he listed pro models from the engine size i needed, and what are not pro models, and what he advised. Thanks for all the input helped a bunch guys :thumbsup

What size trees? That makes a lot of difference. I mean, I can go out and cut saplings down and be OK with a hand saw. What size trees will you be whacking down?

Also, if you really are going to fall trees of any size, you'll want a saw with some extra oomph. I am not a faller, but my neighbor is a retired production faller, and he recommends nothing smaller than a 460 for falling timber--real trees. His reasoning is that sometimes we can get into trouble and will need the saw to give a lot of power at once. He says nothing smaller is safe because of that, for falling. That's the most common saw I have seen fallers using. I'm a retired forester and worked amongst logging operations.

What is your experience? You sound like a beginner and one shouldn't go out and just start dumping trees. Will you be with someone who is knowledgable and can show you how? Will you be one of those folks who go out to be manly and then leave a tree hung up or setting back?

Other things than tree falling? I cut a new doorway in an old shed. My friends used a chainsaw in the construction of their house. Folks use chainsaws to mill lumber.

You want help? Folks are trying to help you but you need to give more info.

 

[Mad Professor]

026/260/028S small stuff/firewood 034/036/360/361 all around firewood 038S/038M/044/440 can handle most all but the biggies

I'd find a nice 036 unless a 038M or 044 came up cheap

361 and 044 can be pricey. Lots of 038 but heavy

 

[NWCoaster]

That 026 is a real Pissrevver.......

 

[wafi zarudin]

What size trees? That makes a lot of difference. I mean, I can go out and cut saplings down and be OK with a hand saw. What size trees will you be whacking down?

Also, if you really are going to fall trees of any size, you'll want a saw with some extra oomph. I am not a faller, but my neighbor is a retired production faller, and he recommends nothing smaller than a 460 for falling timber--real trees. His reasoning is that sometimes we can get into trouble and will need the saw to give a lot of power at once. He says nothing smaller is safe because of that, for falling. That's the most common saw I have seen fallers using. I'm a retired forester and worked amongst logging operations.

What is your experience? You sound like a beginner and one shouldn't go out and just start dumping trees. Will you be with someone who is knowledgable and can show you how? Will you be one of those folks who go out to be manly and then leave a tree hung up or setting back?

Other things than tree falling? I cut a new doorway in an old shed. My friends used a chainsaw in the construction of their house. Folks use chainsaws to mill lumber.

You want help? Folks are trying to help you but you need to give more info.

I've been falling trees for quite some time id say about 3 years, im always out with my boss felling trees. He always has saws for me to use stihls and huskies, I just wanted a saw of my own to mess around with thats all and wanted a good based saw to mess around with on my own time.

 

[MustangMike]

Don't count out the "0" series saws, the condition of the saw you buy will be more important than exactly when it was made, and some of the older saws are easier to tune w/minor modifications that will really lift the performance.

Likely saws in the 50 - 60 cc range are what you are looking for, but if you find an 044/440 (70 cc) in good condition that you can afford, I would not pass it up. It is rare you will find one in that price range (but it does happen), but they are strong running reliable saws that you will not regret owning.

 

[Greg Perryman]

Pro line numbers will be an even number vs homeowner are odd numbers. Another way of identifying is pro line saws have the white handle and homeowner line are red. The pro line up saws are lighter and the power to weight ratio is unbeatable vs a homeowner grade. My main saw is the 38 magnum with a 20 in. Bar. Very hard to beat, and yes it's an older and a little heavy.

 

[nmurph]

Pro line numbers will be an even number vs homeowner are odd numbers. Another way of identifying is pro line saws have the white handle and homeowner line are red. The pro line up saws are lighter and the power to weight ratio is unbeatable vs a homeowner grade. My main saw is the 38 magnum with a 20 in. Bar. Very hard to beat, and yes it's an older and a little heavy.

The numbering convention you refer to has several non-conforming members going both ways. A couple of quick examples- 201 and 280.