gouf63
ArboristSite Lurker
thx
i use the chinese comparison to let u know i had no idea what u were talking about. funny coincidence it turns out to be a chinese product
buying my first chainsaw
- Thread starter gouf63
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thx
i use the chinese comparison to let u know i had no idea what u were talking about. funny coincidence it turns out to be a chinese product
Eightweight
ArboristSite Operative
That saw is great what a massive cut!!!!!!!![
QUOTE=chadihman;4457686]Stihl MS 170 Impressive little sucker[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=chadihman;4457686]Stihl MS 170 Impressive little sucker[/QUOTE]
gouf63
ArboristSite Lurker
Thats not how i meant it. i guess i shouldnt have used the word mishap. blame it on my being french. i plan on using this future saw carefully and risponsibly. alll im saying is that i am no mechanic. neither do i have the experience to know what little kinks are, let alone how to fix them. so im gonna be relying on the dealer for a lot of minor advice or mechanical adjustments.
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7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hello and welcome to AS Frank,
As you can see by the comments here, you came to the right place for an answer. Unfortunately the answers are typically very single and emotionally sided and filtering the right information can be difficult for a beginner who is trying to orientate himself in a new field. I will try to fill out missing spots.
First and foremost you will have to divide your budget into three parts.
1. PSE = personal safety equipment => Chainsaw chaps, eye, ear and hearing protection, a helmet, at least steel toed boots, gloves, etc.
2. Chainsaw equipment => extra chain(at least one), premix or two stroke oil ("full synthetic for air cooled two stroke engines & the following norms API TC, JASO FC/FD, ISO L EDG"), chain/bar oil, chain sharpening equipment(I find the husqvarna roller guide the easiest for beginners), wedges, axe, come along, etc.
3. Chainsaw
Since you came here for the answer to number three and have described your needs as rather "homeowner" like, I will try to answer in that direction. You DON'T need a pro saw and anybody who says different is simply not telling the truth. Any chainsaw in the "Homeowner or Farmer/Semi Pro" class will be absolut sufficient for you. It's just that simple. And the typical BS about the pro model being much lighter and much faster is totally irrelevant for your needs. If you have enough funding and money is an uncomfortable thing in your life that you want to get rid off then go buy the top of the top, but in truth it will only massage your belly. It won't make you into any miraculous tree felling pro or anything.
What I believe would fullfill your needs best would be a saw in the 40-50 ccm / 2,5-3 hp class. This is in my eyes in your situation the most universal. The brand of saw is also irrelavent in your situation. It will hardly be used so spare parts and I am not talking about consumable materials (spare chains, bars, chain oil, etc.) are hardly ever needed.
Some have recomended smaller saws in the 30-40 cc class. That is, in my eyes, not a good recomendation. I see as an ideal combination for the homeowner a 40 & 60 cc class chainsaw. The typical 50 & 70 cc is too much and more for a "advanced" firewood gatherer or pro. As far as I have understood many pros are beginning to switch back again to the 60cc class simply because it is more versatile over a longer day. Especially if you have to carry in your equipment and back out again. At least here in the more alpine regions.
There are major brands:
Stihl
Husqvarna=Jonsered
and minor brands:
Dolmar=Makita
Efco=Oleo Mac
Echo=Shindaiwa
Hitachi=Tanaka
Solo
Mc Culloch=Partner(= homeowner line from Husqvarna)
Major brands usually come with a major price tag, minor brands that I have mentioned are usually a little bit cheaper but no doubt more than up to your needs. I donot believe that I have to tell you all the models because you have acces to the internet and can look up all the models that are available in the stores around you.
What I believe is important for you to know:
Stihl and Husqvarna have typically the best dealer network and are easiest to get spare parts for if ever needed.
Model of choice: Stihl 231, 251, Husqvarna 435, 445, 450
Dolmar=Makita one of the best bangs for the buck out there! Excellent german design and manufacture.
Model of choice: Dolmar 420 / 421 (I have the 420 and that is my personal go to in this class and I have a few in this class) Absolut top build quality (built like a pro saw for the homeowner/farmer!) There are a few threads here on the 420 (predeccesor with 2.7 instead of now 3 hp). Everyone who has one simply loves it!
Echo saws usually come very "restrictive" in their carb settings from the company. In minimal use like you describe hardly anything should happen, but if you cut for prolonged time there is a risk of "siezing" your saw. Further for full engine power the muffler needs a little attention => muffler modification = MM => all information on that can be found on this site in humogous amount.
Model of choice : 400, 450, 500
Efco has an excellent reputation by those who actually use them. I am very happy with mine and can recomend them immediately. I found mine locally on sale for -40 to 50% just because many people have no idea what they are.
Models of choice 3500, 3700, 4100, 147(they have been on sale here)
Mc Culloch/Partner are the homeowner brand from Husqvarna. They are usually very economically priced and can often be found on sale at the larger consumer stores.
Models of choice: anything in the 40-50cc line, if you do a muffler modification and carb retune they will usually really wake up and perform much better. Some of their recent line is supposed to be very good out of the box.
Hitachi/Tanaka have changed a little recently. They have begun to make some very economical saws that I am not sure I would choose at the moment since I have no and read sofar of no experience with the line. The older "real line" of Tanaka is beyond any doubt and excelent japanese build quality that is worth every cent.
Model of choice: ECV-4501
Solo is as good as it gets when compairing german build quality in chainsaws.
Model of choice: 643IP
To be honest about any saw of reputable manufacturer will be more or less comparable in the same class. They all have good and bad sides.
Good luck!
7
GreaseMnky85
ArboristSite Lurker
a good quality saw will re-sell close to what you paid for it if you don't plan on using it after this job
gouf63
ArboristSite Lurker
thx 7sleeper
that is a very extensive and comprehensive analysing. really appreciate it.
i did a little internet research on models. i spotted the husq 435 which u and some others mentionned as a good choice. i know u cant go wrong with husqvarna. but a little more expensive than i planned. ur giving me some more options but mostly a lot of insight on evaluating these options.
there is an hitachi on sale (50% discount) at 125$ from a large store but its only a 32cc for a 16 bar. ur comment really helped me assessing it's not that great a choice for me
once again thx
that is a very extensive and comprehensive analysing. really appreciate it.
i did a little internet research on models. i spotted the husq 435 which u and some others mentionned as a good choice. i know u cant go wrong with husqvarna. but a little more expensive than i planned. ur giving me some more options but mostly a lot of insight on evaluating these options.
there is an hitachi on sale (50% discount) at 125$ from a large store but its only a 32cc for a 16 bar. ur comment really helped me assessing it's not that great a choice for me
once again thx
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Your welcome! I just believe good info is the key to success.
If you want to see what a generic 32cc Stihl 180 can do, look here at mine. I like it a lot but the 40 cc class has superseded it. And if I had to buy all my stuff again I would only look at the 40&60 cc class.
[video=youtube;vVRLdrQcrsU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVRLdrQcrsU[/video]
7
If you want to see what a generic 32cc Stihl 180 can do, look here at mine. I like it a lot but the 40 cc class has superseded it. And if I had to buy all my stuff again I would only look at the 40&60 cc class.
[video=youtube;vVRLdrQcrsU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVRLdrQcrsU[/video]
7
gouf63
ArboristSite Lurker
i will probably be using it less after this project is done but im planning on keeping it. having a saw on hand can make other projects more appealing
gouf63
ArboristSite Lurker
thx
since im not trying to break any speed record it might be enough.
considering my only previous attempt at taking down a tree was with an elbow grease powered bow hacksaw, successful i might add, anything is an improvement lol
my biggest worry about hitachi is brand and parts/service
JanThorCro
ArboristSite Operative
I know nothing about Hitachi Chain saws. I have had one of their roofing nail guns since 1994. It has been very productive and even after a 40 fall off a high roof it went right back to making me money. Replaced the trigger "O" ring 8 years ago. She still gets it done every time I need her to.
Good luck with your new saw, you'll definitely like it more than the bow saw. But that bow saw is easier to hike in a half mile to clear a limb from a trail.
You might want to check out this thread for a $200 saw:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192321.htm
Philbert
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192321.htm
Philbert
gouf63
ArboristSite Lurker
thx philbert
i was feeling overwhelmed with the responses and comments i was getting from my thread. your new thread really helps. what really struck a chord is the "joe homeowner" vs "chainsaw enthusiast" comparison. i am definitely in the first category. no offense intented to "chainsaw enthusiasts" but i really dont think im gonna become one. the feeling i get from other types of power tools i used before is not a sense of excitement. merely a guy with a job/chore to do using a tool to make it easier.
i will be using this saw for specific projects or to clean up broken branches. i stated in my original post i needed to cut down pine and spruce (rather soft wood) no more than 12 inch, and thats really a max. most of them are more in the 8-9 inch range. the cottage was built about 40 years ago and there was absolutely no trees then. it was a field. its even almost hard to believe there are that many trees now.
i will not be going into the woods trying to chop down bigger and bigger trees for fun or challenge.
i do want a good quality all around saw but i dont need a bombshell.
this poulan 5020 looks easy to use. also easy to tune (a good feature for an inexperienced homeowner like me). definitely worth looking into. i would probably have it refit with a shorter (16) bar bringing up power. i think a shorter bar would also be easier to handle
thx
Frank G
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KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Get a Poulan Pro 5020 for $199 50cc and a 20" bar take care of kit and it'll do everything you ask of it.
Good luck.
Let us know what you choose and how it turns out. Then come back when other questions come up (they will!).
Philbert
Let us know what you choose and how it turns out. Then come back when other questions come up (they will!).
Philbert
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
A longer bar is actually easy to handle and its easier on your back not bending over so far.
gouf63
ArboristSite Lurker
searched internet for pp5020av. only one canadian chain carries it and its at 279$
how about the pp4218av? they also have pp4218avx. what is the difference between the 2?
how about the pp4218av? they also have pp4218avx. what is the difference between the 2?
tallguys
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd stay away from those unless you want to tinker with your equipment. Most guys on here, as you've noted, are chainsaw enthusiasts. For a novice, and especially one who doesn't plan to get more into it, I think it would make more sense to go speak with a few dealers, try handling a few different saws, and go from there.
Unless you plan to do the work on your own saws, having a good relationship with a good dealer is worth a lot.
Unless you plan to do the work on your own saws, having a good relationship with a good dealer is worth a lot.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
The X has the tool-less adjuster and you don't want that.
gouf63
ArboristSite Lurker
hi all
went to a dealer this morning
he is mutli brand : echo, husq, redmax and stihl
i realized how clunky the lower brands are compared to the better one. instantly worked out my price issue.
there was also a nice promo with free carrying case, adjustment tool and extra chain.
adding to that, peace of mind with buying from a dealer who will support me thru my learning experience with chainsaws.
im sure u guessed it by now. i forked out the extra $$
drum roll
stihl ms-250
willl be using it for the first time labor day week-end. will post to share my first impressions.
thx again for all your help and comments
Frank G
went to a dealer this morning
he is mutli brand : echo, husq, redmax and stihl
i realized how clunky the lower brands are compared to the better one. instantly worked out my price issue.
there was also a nice promo with free carrying case, adjustment tool and extra chain.
adding to that, peace of mind with buying from a dealer who will support me thru my learning experience with chainsaws.
im sure u guessed it by now. i forked out the extra $$
drum roll
stihl ms-250
willl be using it for the first time labor day week-end. will post to share my first impressions.
thx again for all your help and comments
Frank G
They are good saws - you will not regret your decision. Sold as a 'homeowner' model, but we ran the . . . . out of them doing storm clean up work.
Empty the fuel when not in use, run fresh fuel, get yourself some PPE.
Philbert
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