Brian K
ArboristSite Lurker
Ok, thanks. I'll do some more reading and inquiring before I rush into buying a saw.
Very first chainsaw
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Ok, thanks. I'll do some more reading and inquiring before I rush into buying a saw.
Brian K
ArboristSite Lurker
I do appreciate all the input from everyone. Thanks.
It's like this: I need to haul things around for work. Should I get a brand new Ford Taurus or a Toyota Camry? I can put a trailer hitch receiver on either one and pull a small U-Haul box trailer.
Will it work? Well, I guess. Maybe. What's the right answer? Forget brand new. For the same money, get a used 2500 Duramax, 8' bed, with a trailer hitch. Now you can tow thousands of pounds, AND fill the bed to the brim, and have the right tool for the job. You came to a forum with a bunch of truckers and haulers. We're gonna give you the best answer to fit your set of requirements for the job.
Make sense?
Will it work? Well, I guess. Maybe. What's the right answer? Forget brand new. For the same money, get a used 2500 Duramax, 8' bed, with a trailer hitch. Now you can tow thousands of pounds, AND fill the bed to the brim, and have the right tool for the job. You came to a forum with a bunch of truckers and haulers. We're gonna give you the best answer to fit your set of requirements for the job.
Make sense?
AuerX
constantly confused
No matter what you like! :hmm3grin2orange:
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
Depends on your budget; for the tasks you have in mind, you'd do better with two saws. Maybe the 50cc MS271 on sale for the firewood and save your money for a used 70-90cc saw for the stumps. An MS261 will level a 30" stump on occasion, but it won't like it and neither will you; 50cc's isn't near enough for that type of work.
Trailtrimmer
ArboristSite Operative
They are obviously not in to cutting much. Stumps, especially ones with big root flares are one of the biggest workouts you can give a saw. An MS 250 will be fine on small stuff, struggle on medium stumps and won't be up to the task for big ones.
As people have stated, a 70cc+ used saw is the way to go.
apn73
ArboristSite Operative
What these guys have said above. Stumping is rugged business and requires a rugged saw. If you're talking about cutting a hard wood gobb stomper at the ground, think you'll need all the saw that you can get. I may be wrong on this piece of advice, but carbide saw chain would be a big plus. Similar to the chains used to cut railroad ties.
most excellent idea!
Then have a 30" double ended bar made up for the 5020's be the first one on the block with that setup. :hmm3grin2orange:I want pic's..
On the more serious side, stumping is hard work for the saw. Larger engine is better. Chain will be dull and require more HP to force it's way thru the cut. I am with the vote for a 70cc saw (don't care who made it). Carbide chain would be nice, but a expensive investment.
You could start with a 18" cheapie box store saw. If it works for ya, then that is awsum. Keep this up and you will understand the reasoning behind the larger pro saw.
neither.....based on your budget and choice of saws, buy 2 Poulan Pro 5020's and be happy.opcorn:
Then have a 30" double ended bar made up for the 5020's be the first one on the block with that setup. :hmm3grin2orange:I want pic's..
On the more serious side, stumping is hard work for the saw. Larger engine is better. Chain will be dull and require more HP to force it's way thru the cut. I am with the vote for a 70cc saw (don't care who made it). Carbide chain would be nice, but a expensive investment.
You could start with a 18" cheapie box store saw. If it works for ya, then that is awsum. Keep this up and you will understand the reasoning behind the larger pro saw.
Brian K
ArboristSite Lurker
The thread I wrote that disappeared basically stated that last year I had a maple tree about 30 inches in diameter that was cut down but was still about 3 feet high. I ended up using my dads wild thing to cut it down to about 4 inches above grade. I needed to cut it from 3 sides but it worked. For me to work on trees that size in diameter are very rare. The 3 spruce I mentioned earlier was an example of a situation that might come along once a year. Also, I'm not taking the stump right out with the saw, I just want to lower it a few inches if its still sitting to high. I think I came across about a dozen stumps last year that were sitting high but were poplar and only about 12 or so inches in diameter. About 95% of my saw usage will be for cutting logs to split for firewood. I do agree with what everyone is saying. I'm just worried about going to big. As for buying used, I thought about it before I decided to buy new but decided that I liked the idea of a warranty especially because I don't know much about troubleshooting and fixing saws which I'm sure will come in time.
AuerX
constantly confused
A Brand new saw is a great thing.
Dont limit yourself to one brand tho.
I'd look very close at a husqvarna 346xp.
Eric
514mach1
ArboristSite Operative
I'd go with a used saw. Have someone who knows saws do a carb kit and fuel lines to it. Have them also replace whatever else is worn (probably clutch and sprocket, maybe a few other odds and ends). Then learn all the basic maintenance. In a few hours of searching online, you can be pretty educated on how to keep the saw happy and running a long time. Or cut with someone who takes care of their saw(s) and let them give you tips.
roundhead
ArboristSite Operative
Brian, your thinking makes sense almost...there are plenty of guys on here that will sell you a good saw for what you need within your budget. If you spend less on used, that will factor into your learning curve without the extra expense. think about it this way. if you buy a cheaper new saw of a lesser quality and mess it up by failing to use the right oil/gas, then you get to rebuild it and learn from all the wonderful folks here on AS. before you know it you will have a good understanding of all things chainsaw. Or you can get yourself a decent used saw that will handle the bigger stumps for the price of a new 271. worse case scenario: you run straight gasoline in it and fry the piston/cylinder. then you just go buy a new piston/cylinder and replace the old one. then you have learned how to fix your own saw and how they go together. and you have gained valuable wisdom because you have spent more time on the site and made new friends. many people mess their saws up by improper fuel mix or using straight gas, which your warranty will not cover anyway. Proverbs 11:14 says "in an abundance of counselors there is safety." so either way it is your money and I know those new saws look real nice sitting on the shelf but...
R1!
ArboristSite Operative
My first saw was a ported 272xp.
Get the best saw you can for the money.
http://www.arboristsite.com/tradin-post/
Get the best saw you can for the money.
http://www.arboristsite.com/tradin-post/
I just sold my stump grinder. I have 2,100 cc Homelite 1050's. One with 24 inch and one with 36 inch bars. Bought them new back in the 70's. See how many saws will hold up that long? Nothing like power and quality, Joe.
AuerX
constantly confused
Stihl's forte is marketing. They give nobody a break- buyers, dealers, parts buyers, nobody. Resale value is good, primarily because the initial price is crazy. ("Sure it's expensive, but I'm worth it.")
Look closely at their 250. Bar studs mount into PLASTIC. WTF, plastic frame for $350?
Friend recently tried his 250, then my $94 refurb PP4218. Preferred the performance of the PP. (Get 4-5 yrs. out of the PP, get a new one.) And ... the PP is a strato. Just be sure to richen it a bit on the top end.
As with your first car, your first saw will be a "learner"- it'll get knocked about much more than subsequent saws do after you absorb what it takes. The suggestion of the PP5020 is right in line with that idea; if you kill it you won't weep that long.
and it has a metal clutch cover/ brake assembly...so it is a little heavy...
In fact both the PP5020 and PP4218 are a bit zaftig, the 4218 almost 3 lbs heavier than RedMax GZ4000, and both summat bulky. (Lose the Torch plug from the 4218. Really! Now!)
They both rip- end of discussion for me. And ... being stratos, no need to lug much fuel out on the trail. Sure, I'd like them lighter, but for me, other (legal, mind you) addictions vie for bucks.
With a decent plug, both start reliably, and make lots of chips on a tank.
Recently, cutting up Sandy damage, the 4218's been getting the bulk of the work as it's been breaking in. But, seeing insulator of CJ-8 running bony white all the way to the metal shell, it now has an NGK BM-7A (CJ-6 equivalent.) Fouled plug no problem, moth-eaten piston BIG problem- won't go there.
Almost forgot- Carlton 30LP chain holds edge MUCH better than OEM chain on PP4218. MUCH better.
Brian K
ArboristSite Lurker
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
if you used your dads wildthing, and it was tuned properly, you basicly know what kind of power a stihl ms250 has.
you have alot of options around you when it comes to used chainsaws. you can buy one from a member here (good choice), or you can use that big canadian buy/sell site that is affiliated with feepay, and buy a saw you can go and look at and try out. for $400 bones, you can get one hell of a good used bigger saw.
never mind the ms250/271. don't even bother going to look at them. there are far better saws out there for the same money. and far more used saw for same.
you have alot of options around you when it comes to used chainsaws. you can buy one from a member here (good choice), or you can use that big canadian buy/sell site that is affiliated with feepay, and buy a saw you can go and look at and try out. for $400 bones, you can get one hell of a good used bigger saw.
never mind the ms250/271. don't even bother going to look at them. there are far better saws out there for the same money. and far more used saw for same.
