By the way, Lakeside.

[Adkpk]

Funny way to start a thread, huh. Anyway, Andy, I don't want to bring up that long thread about my hard luck with my 066 but back to that thread, as far as the break in. I didn't want to fall the whole forest so I broke in the saw by running at low rpms (set by the guy in the shop) and slabbing only 2-3 minutes at a time. Letting the saw cool in between. Yesterday I would say I got through my 7th tank of fuel. The next time I use the saw I would like to reajust the carb settings. I don't think it is good for the saw to be running the way it is. Poor thing sounds like it's choking. It can't be good for the carb.
In the meantime the 066 will be going under the care of a new saw shop. Yea!

 

[Lakeside53]

Well...... Hard to know where yours is set right now, but when I'm running mine as a mill, it is really rich and "gurgles lot" and has a "low tone" at full power in the wood... and that's how mine is staying... for milling... About 11k, maybe 11500... WOT . And I have a dual port muffler if that make a diff to you. I'll go for longevity than immediate gratification.


When not milling, I lean out the carb, and it's a snorting monster.


BTW - It's not hurting the carb... I assume you've had the limiter cap tab sliced off to enable easy adjustment? Or reset the cap to the middle of the range?

Change over to full synthetic oil. Less smoke, better lube, and a larger margin or safety..

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Id pull the plug and read it, see how it is really running.

Black= Rich
White = Lean
Dark Tan = Perfect

 

[Lakeside53]

Id pull the plug and read it, see how it is really running.

Black= Rich
White = Lean
Dark Tan = Perfect

That's not quite the issue for milling. Milling is max power for a full tank, then nothing, then max power for another tank... etc etc. Different from ordinary cross cut intermittent power use. You wouldn't run any engine at max continuous power without derating, and attention to good lubrication and cooling, unless you don't care about life. The problem on a big saw like a 066 is not so much "wearing out", but catastrophic melt-down failure. Tuning needs to be backed away from "the edge".

My plugs are on the very dark side of tan, oily black around the rims and foul easily with rich hot restarts. i.e, "rich" but that's how they will stay for milling.

 

[josgmctk]

is there a stihl cement saw model with the same cc as the 066 660?

 

[bump_r]

MS660 = 91.6 cc

TS460 = 72.4 cc
TS700 = 98.5 cc

The Cutquik TS460 comes in under the MS660 and the TS700 overshoots the MS660. MAybge an older model, but no equal in today's lineup.

 

[046]

lake, that makes total sense. if I understand correctly, you want 066 to be running slightly rich all the time. for milling that is.

then lean it out a little for normal use.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

That's not quite the issue for milling. Milling is max power for a full tank, then nothing, then max power for another tank... etc etc. Different from ordinary cross cut intermittent power use. You wouldn't run any engine at max continuous power without derating, and attention to good lubrication and cooling, unless you don't care about life. The problem on a big saw like a 066 is not so much "wearing out", but catastrophic melt-down failure. Tuning needs to be backed away from "the edge".

My plugs are on the very dark side of tan, oily black around the rims and foul easily with rich hot restarts. i.e, "rich" but that's how they will stay for milling.

Thats Why I said Dark Tan. Light tan is where I like my regular use saws, dark tan is just rich enough to provide good power, and enough lubrication to keep the internals happy.

 

[Adkpk]

Um good. Thanks again Lake. So leave it running like it is. I will. It really is slower tuned like that but at top throttle it really sounds pretty good. My thinking on the carb was with the saw running at low rpms, seems like a lot of mix isn't being burnt. I was imagining the mix running through the carb slower therefore leaving a residue. How about thinking? I have no idea if that is correct but that is what I was thinking.
My 359 husky just got back from the shop (that is, the new shop I am going to be using now). It got a new carb. Now, is that because on occasion I use my milling mix (38-1) in that saw causing oil to build up in the carb or something else. I don't expect anyone to know seeing they didn't see the saw but am I wrong at thinking a bad carb is something to with mixture? What else ruins a carb. The saw is not that old. I thought it was under warranty still. But the saw shop guy said according to the serial # it wasn't. So it's somehting like two years. I'd say maybe 20-30 tanks of gas.

 

[Urbicide]

359 warranty issue

Hey Ardpk. Husky has a two year warranty. Do you have your receipt from when you purchased the saw? The warranty starts from the date of delivery. That saw might have sat in a warehouse or up on a dealer's shelf for awhile or both. opcorn:

 

[Lakeside53]

Carbs rarely get ruined unless really old gas varishes up, and even then most are recoverable...

 

[Adkpk]

Urbi, thanks for that, I put aside digging up the reciept thinking my chances were thin. But it is good to know the info he got is about the year of the saw not the date I purchased it.
Thanks Lake. Just as I suspected.
How about that excuse saw repair guys. Telling the customer,"I thought you were a tree guy so I figured you needed the saw asap." Going ahead with the more costly, easier repair to get the saw out the door. Well he covered his a$$ by giving me the saw for $100. and drooping $80. form the repair. I can live with that. The saw runs like new again. And for anyone with a 359 that is goooood.

 

[Lakeside53]

The best $60 I ever spent was on an ultrasonic cleaner. 3 minutes and the carb looks like new, and almost ways runs like it.

 

[deerlakejens]

Solvent in Ultrasonic cleaner?

What are you using in the cleaner? I picked one up at a jewerly shop that was closing it out and have yet to use it but I have a candidate lined up.

 

[Lakeside53]

I use Coleman lantern fluid...

Water with a dash of ammonia and soap works fine also, but the lantern fluid is cheap, smells nice (nicer..) and drys immediately. It is very flammable though..

Now have two - one for "pre-wash" and the other for "final". Always pre-pre-wash, even if it's just a container on the bench to drop the dirty and FULLY ASSEMBLED carb into first, then blow off... Keep the real crap out of the cleaner...