Calibrated eyeballs for exact 18" cuts ??

[BarkBuster20]

Tip for OP: when stacking,

1. line up the cut ends on one side of the stack perfectly, then

2. photograph the stack from that side only.

Voila! Nobody has to know what the other side looks like.

Jack

Lol in my book thats close to false advertisement, and i am sure customers would notice. Specially if it dont fit in there stove.

 

[2FatGuys]

For the firewood business, we have to maximize cutting production, don't have the time for a mingo marker.

How do you know? Have you ever tried one?

Read your first sentance above... then read your quote below...

Over many years of cutting firewood, I think I can cut within +or- 1 inch, prolly better than that on 18" wood since that is what we cut the most of. On any of the hired hands we start them cutting using the method of comparing the bar length to the wood. If they are really slow, I'll grab a can of paint and mark off where I want them to cut for several logs. Then they are on their own to cut it right. We have very consistent results just using the "calibrated" eye results.

You are saying that this lengthy process that you described is faster and more efficient?

Why spend 25 percent of your time marking them, just try the calibrated eye approach, you'll find it more accuarate than you thought it could be.

25%? Really? Wow!

For us, it typically takes less than 30 seconds to put down the saw, pick up the Mingo, mark an entire trunk (or stem or limb) into the set lengths, put the Mingo back down, pick up the saw, and start cutting. Based on your 25% number, am I to assume you can completely firewood a 50' Oak trunk in 2 minutes?

I understand that you are consistent in length... I understand that you don't use any device for assistance... and I have no problem with that. I applaud you! For the rest of us that prefer to use something to speed up our process, however, please think about your numbers before you post them. I think if you ever tried an non-cumbersome device (like the Mingo), you would see the benefits of it quickly. It increased our productivity greatly and gives a much more accurate (as if that matters) and consistent length to our final product.

 

[chainsaway]

Tie-wrap it!

I use a big tie-wrap wrapped around the wrap-around , cut to length from the bar, makes sense right! its cheap, flexible,very durable, pivots out the way, easily replaceable and any length-adaptable. I sure thought everybody used that method except my BIL. Anyway it works slick, have a try...
alain

 

[BarkBuster20]

I use a big tie-wrap wrapped around the wrap-around , cut to length from the bar, makes sense right! its cheap, flexible,very durable, pivots out the way, easily replaceable and any length-adaptable. I sure thought everybody used that method except my BIL. Anyway it works slick, have a try...
alain

Explain this again please.

 

[turnkey4099]

I have used the cut-off guide mounted on the bar nuts (homemade), marking long stretches of log, eyeball, etc. Currently I carry a 16" stick in my left hand (someone else does this too I see). Not recommended as one really can't hold the saw properly with a stick in the hand but I do it.

Mark long sections of the log in advance - doesn't work well as one has to make adjustments due to crotches, crooked logs, etc. When you make the first adjusstment all your marks are useless.

Eyeball: Been cutting over 30 years and still can't gauge it. Smaller the wood the longer I cut, bigger the wood, shorter I cut.

Marker on saw - best for quick work but is awkward. I don't use my homemade one now as my saws are not Stihl and they ahve the indented bar nut groove - it doesn't fit in there.

Harry K

Back in business (I hope) with a mounted cut-off guide (16"). I bought the 'Quick Stix" from Bailey's. No good as the plastic rods are so flimsy they break from just setting the saw down (broke two within minutes of first mounting them).

Discovered that 5/16" CRS rod is only one of those famous hairs bigger than an 8mm rod. Bought a 8 x 1.25 die, did a bit of filing on the rod (probably not needed) and threaded two rods today. Be out cutting tomorrow or the nextday depending on weather to try them out.

Bit concerned about the rods though. They are stiff, no give at all. My old home made one from 1/8x3/4 crs bar had lots of flex and bendability.

Harry K

 

[corrupt]

Explain this again please.

I got that he uses a huge plastic zip or cable tie attached to the full wrap handle of the chainsaw. Instead of trimming the end off the tie as u usually do u just leave it.

 

[Suz]

Statement and question

I have a mark on my saw and use the parallel saw method myself. If I get somewhat close I'm happy except for the times when we cut a chunk that is 26 inches long and don't fit into the 25 inch splitter opening!

Besides once it goes through the stove all the wood is the same size!

Question for all of you who are anal about the size of the chunk of wood. What do you do when your exact measured cut falls right in a crotch? Do you cut through the exact spot and trim up the offending side branch(s)? Or do you cut the crotch out, thow it in the woods and then start measuring all over again from the new cut?

Just wondering!!

 

[J.W Younger]

I have a mark on my saw and use the parallel saw method myself. If I get somewhat close I'm happy except for the times when we cut a chunk that is 26 inches long and don't fit into the 25 inch splitter opening!

Besides once it goes through the stove all the wood is the same size!

Question for all of you who are anal about the size of the chunk of wood. What do you do when your exact measured cut falls right in a crotch? Do you cut through the exact spot and trim up the offending side branch(s)? Or do you cut the crotch out, thow it in the woods and then start measuring all over again from the new cut?

Just wondering!!

it depends, most times just cut it and split from the other end

 

[redprospector]

I don't measure unless I'm cuttin' saw log's.

Andy

 

[indiansprings]

We cut tops mainly, have to limb as we go, the marker might be fine in bare trunks but I cannot envision using it on tops, it's just easier for us to eyeball it, don't have to set a saw down, keep track of the marker in debris. When we do get cull logs, sure it would be an effective speedy method. But I think after doing it this way for thirty five years, I'd prolly be slower learning a different way. The only real down time we have is filling saws with mix and car oil and when we stop to load. It's really not that tough to eyeball after you've done it awhile. Each to their own, I'm not going to pay help to sit down a saw and try to mark tops, they can have several cuts made during that time. After each top is cut up and loaded we just push all the small cut off limbs up with a 4wd tractor and loader and drag another top up and repeat process. That way we keep the land owner happy by piling and burning all the left over brush. If you use a mingo on tops how do you run it down all the two and three inch limbs that get cut up that still have leaves on them in an efficent manner? Just interested to know if you find it effective on tops or just bare logs or trunk wood?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Think about the stove first.

My general advice is to try to cut all the same length that will maximize stove heat. If you leave behind a few shorts, so be it.

Do NOT take a 26" log and cut it in half to make two 13" logs if the stove accepts a 20" maximum log length. Instead, cut 6" off the end of the log and save the short for either kindling or cooking weenies in the campfire pit.

 

[turnkey4099]

I have a mark on my saw and use the parallel saw method myself. If I get somewhat close I'm happy except for the times when we cut a chunk that is 26 inches long and don't fit into the 25 inch splitter opening!

Besides once it goes through the stove all the wood is the same size!

Question for all of you who are anal about the size of the chunk of wood. What do you do when your exact measured cut falls right in a crotch? Do you cut through the exact spot and trim up the offending side branch(s)? Or do you cut the crotch out, thow it in the woods and then start measuring all over again from the new cut?

Just wondering!!

Same here. I can't see using a Mingo for that reason. First crotch you come to you have to make an adjusstment of some sort which throws off all subsequent marks.

I use a mounted cut-off guide not because I am anal but because eyeball doesn't work for me (big stuff I cut short, small stuff/long) and all other methods are time consuming. Especially the flip the saw 90 degrees, eyeball and flip it back. I get enough exersize just hefting the saw to the next cut without wavign it around in the air.

Harry K