Can old 346xp be fitted with NE346xp P&C?

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I personally wouldn't sweat it. I don't want to get into the whole debate again, but when we tested the 50cc saws recently, a stock OE 346XP was 2nd only to a NE 346XP. It was stronger than the 5100 and 260 in the wood we were testing with.

You know, you were most likely testing in the wrong kind of wood....
 
But why not have the power of the new cylinder if he needs one and it'll bolt right on?


Thats easy to say however I thought you just said you wondered if it would work also? (It would be cool btw if it worked)

Just saying...OE is the sure thing from my point of view I admit I am no expert.

Bolting on and bolting on and working are two totaly different things in my world maybe not in the saw modding business?


Kansas
 
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Is the bottom end the same in the NE and OE (crank and bearing wise)?Chances are if the crank and bearings are the same part# it may work.
DON

Did I mention I LOVE this place!!
DON
 
I run a 50cc cyl/pis on my oe346xpg :)

Is that the NE346 50 cc P&C or the 350/353 50 cc P&C?

Also, on the carb swap that Brad did, a larger carb is not necessarily a good thing. You still have to maintain velocity of the a/f charge. Smaller venturi equals higher velocity. My experience has been large carbs help on the top end, but you lose torque on the bottom end. Granted, this is on 4 stroke engines.
 
Well, I just gambled on a used 346xp OE on ebay. I probably paid too much, got caught up in the auction high. The ad said it needed a piston, we shall see. If I have to put a p&c in it, I'll probably go with the NE. Of course, by then, I'd almost have as much in it as a NE. If all else fails, I'll part it out.
 
Is that the NE346 50 cc P&C or the 350/353 50 cc P&C?

Also, on the carb swap that Brad did, a larger carb is not necessarily a good thing. You still have to maintain velocity of the a/f charge. Smaller venturi equals higher velocity. My experience has been large carbs help on the top end, but you lose torque on the bottom end. Granted, this is on 4 stroke engines.

But saws are only used at WOT. I've not noticed any ill affects at all with the saws I've put larger carbs on.
 
But saws are only used at WOT. I've not noticed any ill affects at all with the saws I've put larger carbs on.

I guess you're right there, MOST of the time, they're used at WOT. If you've had no ill effects, excellent. I have seen ill effects in motorcycles where too large a carb creates a dip in low end performance. A lot of guys think bigger must be better. But, we're not talking bikes, are we. Keep up the good work.
 
Brad, please don't take this as a personal attack, I'm just trying to learn as much as possible from someone who obviously has more experience in this area than I do. I like to gather all the info available before investing dough.

Have you ever done any timed cut comparisons before and after going to a larger carb? It makes complete sense that in a bucking saw, you'd want as much flow as possible, as you'd be at WOT all the time.

It seems in a limbing saw, the lower end would become more important. I personally don't run WOT very often while limbing. I run the saw all over the rpm spectrum, depending on the thickness of what I'm cutting.
 
I've only fitted larger carbs to 3 saws. My MS260 had significant useability issues before the swap. The 044 carb cured those problems entirely. The other two are my MS361BB and 346XP. I don't recall doing timed cuts directly before and after. Perhpas I did on the 361, but I don't recall.
 
My experience has been large carbs help on the top end, but you lose torque on the bottom end. Granted, this is on 4 stroke engines.

Same holds true in the 2 stroke world, I believe. Or at least in the Yamaha Banshee atv's.
I've seen some really big carbs on drag 'shees. Some as big as 40 plus mm. Stock on a 'shee is dual 28mm.
They make a single carb conversions for the Banshee too that's suppose to give more low end power than the duals.
 
All of that is correct. However, chainsaws don't need torque off idle. If throttle response is good, a saw is used mostly in its upper RPM range, never down low. Low on a chainsaw would probably be 8,000 RPMs.
 
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