vince
ArboristSite Member
i don't understand why you would use a half skip or full skip chain as opposed to a regular non skip (lack of a better term) chain. what is the difference between each and what application do you use them for
can someone explain the different chains please?
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ShoerFast
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Vince
It really comes down to the nature of the 2 stroke engines, the power band, or best enegrey curve is more at the top end, the high RPM's . To run the engine as fast as it can, narrower bars and chains have been devoliped, from the earler 9/16 pitch. But to span some of the cuts needed in bigger timber, smaller engines can keep the chain speed up simply by skipping the cutters. Trenchers do the same thing by the pattern of cutters to clean-out teeth ratio. There is no one on here that would say running a 36" bar on an MS 310 is a good idea, but with a full skip "L" or square ground chain and being carefull not to cut with the full width of the bar, it works for me, in pine and fir!
It really comes down to the nature of the 2 stroke engines, the power band, or best enegrey curve is more at the top end, the high RPM's . To run the engine as fast as it can, narrower bars and chains have been devoliped, from the earler 9/16 pitch. But to span some of the cuts needed in bigger timber, smaller engines can keep the chain speed up simply by skipping the cutters. Trenchers do the same thing by the pattern of cutters to clean-out teeth ratio. There is no one on here that would say running a 36" bar on an MS 310 is a good idea, but with a full skip "L" or square ground chain and being carefull not to cut with the full width of the bar, it works for me, in pine and fir!
vince
ArboristSite Member
so basically what is happening is because of the gap it is allowing the engine to have less drag, therefore running faster. But at the same time you still have to move the wood out of your cut. so I guess it is like 6 of one half of a a dozen of the other. or does this allow you to have way more power at the top end.
If you have a long bar, having fewer teeth will keep the chain running at full speed and not bog down the saw. Also more room between teeth for shavings.
Basically each tooth is cutting the wood and this takes power from the engine. If you have a longer bar and are cutting a large diameter log, then you have more teeth cutting at the same time. So you would need more power from the engine. Then you have to carry the saw around all day, so you want the lightest weight saw possible. Lighter weight would mean a less powerful engine. So I think some clever person figured out that with longer bars, you can use a less powerful saw which is lighter weight, then remove half of the cutting teeth from the chain, and the chain will maintain its speed and cut quite fast. So you can cut a large diameter log in a reasonable amount of time with a lighter weight chainsaw.
Also when cutting a large diameter log. One cutter on the chain will start cutting at one end and continue to the other end. So by the time it gets to the other end of the log, there are a lot of shavings accumulated. So I think spacing out the cutting teeth when cutting large diameter logs allows more room for shavings to accumulate as well.
Around here, a 32" bar with a full skip chain seems to be common.
So I have a 16" saw with "regular non skip" (or full comp) which I use to cut small stuff.
And an 18" saw with full comp.
And then a 32" saw with full skip.
I suppose I could get a bar somewhere between 32" and 18" and a half skip chain would do ok?
Basically each tooth is cutting the wood and this takes power from the engine. If you have a longer bar and are cutting a large diameter log, then you have more teeth cutting at the same time. So you would need more power from the engine. Then you have to carry the saw around all day, so you want the lightest weight saw possible. Lighter weight would mean a less powerful engine. So I think some clever person figured out that with longer bars, you can use a less powerful saw which is lighter weight, then remove half of the cutting teeth from the chain, and the chain will maintain its speed and cut quite fast. So you can cut a large diameter log in a reasonable amount of time with a lighter weight chainsaw.
Also when cutting a large diameter log. One cutter on the chain will start cutting at one end and continue to the other end. So by the time it gets to the other end of the log, there are a lot of shavings accumulated. So I think spacing out the cutting teeth when cutting large diameter logs allows more room for shavings to accumulate as well.
Around here, a 32" bar with a full skip chain seems to be common.
So I have a 16" saw with "regular non skip" (or full comp) which I use to cut small stuff.
And an 18" saw with full comp.
And then a 32" saw with full skip.
I suppose I could get a bar somewhere between 32" and 18" and a half skip chain would do ok?
fishhuntcutwood
Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
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A can of worms here my brother. Read this-
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23956&highlight=full+skip
Jeff
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23956&highlight=full+skip
Jeff
fishhuntcutwood
Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
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ShoerFast said:
Holy smoke! I thought I was a long bar guy. Russ, SawTroll, what do you think about that?!?
Jeff
ShoerFast
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Vince
Try not to think of the gap, just for now lets let the sawdust find its own way out. But think of it as a horse pulling a plow, little horse, little plow, but if things seem to be running too smothly, we would start to think about pulling more plow bottems,,, faster, but the horse will only pull so many bottems , but the horse wouldent know how far apart they were. Skip chain dosant cut faster, nessarly, it just cuts longer lenghts at a time. Most mid sized saws do very well with 18" or so of full comp chain,,,,, if the math were an even trade, it would cut just as well with about 26" half skip or 36" of full skip chain,,,,but we have to return the chain in the same cut and bar drag,,, so the math is not perfict.
Try not to think of the gap, just for now lets let the sawdust find its own way out. But think of it as a horse pulling a plow, little horse, little plow, but if things seem to be running too smothly, we would start to think about pulling more plow bottems,,, faster, but the horse will only pull so many bottems , but the horse wouldent know how far apart they were. Skip chain dosant cut faster, nessarly, it just cuts longer lenghts at a time. Most mid sized saws do very well with 18" or so of full comp chain,,,,, if the math were an even trade, it would cut just as well with about 26" half skip or 36" of full skip chain,,,,but we have to return the chain in the same cut and bar drag,,, so the math is not perfict.
vince
ArboristSite Member
excellent explanation guys. I have always just used and RS on my 36" bar. come to think of it i don't think my local dealers have a skip chain or maybe not on display. My saw is way over kill for this area i think. but i like to have it for the brute power. I bought the big bar for big elms in this area. My friend want one knocked down so he got me the bar. I thought that i worked really well with the RS chain
Diesel JD
ArboristSite Guru
What saw do you have Vince? I knoiw anything that can run 36" and full comp has to be an MS660, Husky 395XP or bigger
vince
ArboristSite Member
i run that chain on my 660
