Can't blow heat down? What?

[pook]

I think if you trust what a company says about the installation which by the way has had a ton of time and money spent to ensure proper operation and you install the product as detailed out in the manual youroperation should be or close to the same as when the unit was tested and listed. Having a glass door to see a flame is not there to ensure it'sdoing what the furnace is supposed to be doing.
I trust my Jack.Sure in the beginning I'd go to check on the wood often.
After all I was used to short burn times in poorlymade furnaces.
When I got my Jack I quickly learned to stay out of it.

A tell tale sign that I need more wood is that my house starts to cool down.
I know that after 15 years of operating it I typically load it when I get up in the morning,hit it with a few pieces around 5pm and top it off before I go to bed.
When I wake up again the next morning this loading process starts all over.

Do I know exactly to the decimal point what the eff. is? No, how could Ias the burn rates is all over the board and hence the efficiency # will change. Do I need to know?
For me it's not important. As long as my house runs 24/7 on wood who cares.
When it get's into the 20's and warmer I'm onlyloading it 2 times a day and when it get's to 40 I can load it once a day.


I know my Jack uses gasification.I know it holds heats for a long time with the thermal mass built in...anyone doubt that contact Mikes Mold and ask him about his Super Jack he just bought.

Wood does not burn in a fashion that support continuety of operation. There is no AFUE rating and there are so many varibles with wood moisture contents,wind effecting drafts and other weather occurences that to say what's the efficiency or CO levellike you'd be able to measure on an oil burner is purely crazy.
Although you can do controlled tests...you'd have to have the same conditions for everyone to get the same results...hence guys like Pook just show ignorance by demanding percentages and levels.

http://www.yukon-eagle.com/Portals/0/manuals/JackLineManual.pdf Manual states peak efficiency involves 4-6 hr. burn & cast iron spinner must be manually adjusted to allow for secondary air? Thought there was a 80/20 combustion air patented system involved which I cant find in Google patents. Also cant find recent certification for whatever.
Please post any actual data available

 

[CrappieKeith]

I've been using a super jack for about a year now. I'm very happy with it, got rid of the daka (what a joke). As for blowing the heat down, my basement is very short and due to where I had to tie into the ducting my main trunk coming off of the yukon is running slightly down hill. Hasn't been a problem yet. I'm using the optional blower from yukon. Its a four speed blower and most of the time I run it on the second speed and that provides good air flow to the registers. Even when the blower isn't running I will get some airflow to the upstairs vents. You'll be happy with a yukon and Keith is a good guy to deal with you can't go wrong.

Adam

Thanks Adam

 

[CrappieKeith]

http://www.yukon-eagle.com/Portals/0/manuals/JackLineManual.pdf Manual states peak efficiency involves 4-6 hr. burn & cast iron spinner must be manually adjusted to allow for secondary air? Thought there was a 80/20 combustion air patented system involved which I cant find in Google patents. Also cant find recent certification for whatever.
Please post any actual data available

You will get best efficiency when you add only
the amount of wood needed for a 4 to 6 hour burn. Pook ...smaller hotter fires are more efficient than larger lower burner fires.
It said "best".
The Eagle line of furnaces use the 80/20 technology.
Furnace - Patent 4343288

Now we had been referring to the Jacks. Although I'm not a big fan of our manual it does leave out a few things.The Jacks have a firebox in a firebox. The air that the draft motor blows in is directed to below the grates and through them in an upward fashion.It also blows air between the 2 firebox walls entering just over the fire in a preheated fashion for the gases to be added in their burning.

Pook....show me a test that I can use that is accepted by the and mandated by the EPA for wood furnaces in the U.S.
Sorry about the hijacking Logan....I felt I needed to address Pook although I fear it was just waist of time.

 

[pook]

You will get best efficiency when you add only
the amount of wood needed for a 4 to 6 hour burn. Pook ...smaller hotter fires are more efficient than larger lower burner fires.
It said "best".
The Eagle line of furnaces use the 80/20 technology.
Furnace - Patent 4343288

Now we had been referring to the Jacks. Although I'm not a big fan of our manual it does leave out a few things.The Jacks have a firebox in a firebox. The air that the draft motor blows in is directed to below the grates and through them in an upward fashion.It also blows air between the 2 firebox walls entering just over the fire in a preheated fashion for the gases to be added in their burning.

Pook....show me a test that I can use that is accepted by the and mandated by the EPA for wood furnaces in the U.S.
Sorry about the hijacking Logan....I felt I needed to address Pook although I fear it was just waist of time.

Did it pass the particulates of emissions test or does it qualify thru the 35/1 fuel air ratio exemption?

 

[Hedgerow]

You will get best efficiency when you add only
the amount of wood needed for a 4 to 6 hour burn. Pook ...smaller hotter fires are more efficient than larger lower burner fires.
It said "best".
The Eagle line of furnaces use the 80/20 technology.
Furnace - Patent 4343288

Now we had been referring to the Jacks. Although I'm not a big fan of our manual it does leave out a few things.The Jacks have a firebox in a firebox. The air that the draft motor blows in is directed to below the grates and through them in an upward fashion.It also blows air between the 2 firebox walls entering just over the fire in a preheated fashion for the gases to be added in their burning.

Pook....show me a test that I can use that is accepted by the and mandated by the EPA for wood furnaces in the U.S.
Sorry about the hijacking Logan....I felt I needed to address Pook although I fear it was just waist of time.

It was in vein I'm affraid... Sorry ... And to think, the thread started as one about a furnace and blower set up... Them are some damn fine crappie though...:msp_rolleyes:

 

[loganj01]

Sorry about the hijacking Logan....I felt I needed to address Pook although I fear it was just waist of time.

Oh I don't care...it's fine. I'm not one of those folks who gets all bent up about stuff like that. You have to defend yourself. I really don't understand the constant railing about this test and that test though. I'm looking for a durable, efficient furnace with a good track record built by a reputable manufacturer. There are several brands out there that easily meet these standards. I don't really care if it meets the particulate standards for Norway or if the manual is available in Swahili or if there is a current patent in force for the warp drive system...I mean GIVE IT A REST for a while

 

[CrappieKeith]

Did it pass the particulates of emissions test or does it qualify thru the 35/1 fuel air ratio exemption?

Name the test Pook that is accepted by US manufacutres for furnaces Pook.
I'd surely be happy to supply the data.

The EPA 40/60 Subpart AAA exempts furnaces and is targeted towards stoves.
The B415 has not been accepted yet as we are still in the process of defining what that test will be.
As a matter of fact a vote was just taken as to some changes.

So what test are you looking for Pook? I know of no other....oh ya...your Pook
TO ALL: After reading much of the information provided by Pook above, it seems to be misinformed and even dangerous in some cases. Please disregard any posts made by him before this post. I have informed him and will inform you all, if you are giving out bad information knowingly you will be banned from this site and if somebody gets hurt by your poor information, you could be personally liable. This could include jail time or be at the very least financially liable. You are personally liable for anything you say on here or any other website!!! Since there seems to be so many posts with poor/dangerous information, I feel it has to be on purpose as nobody can believe many of the things that have been said, which includes the poster.
Thanks!!! Have a Happy, warm Holiday to everyone!! Also, Thanks to all that try to help others on here and have a genuine interest in making this a site full of good/useful information.
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