Can't start my 92cc saw
- Thread starter Bedford T
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- ms660 stihl wont start
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Meteor piston comes with caber rings standard.
I order the hsl door buster special. No way am I putting that good kit on until I am happy. It did not have capers.
I will order the good kit after I am happy. Not the way most might do it. I got a 150$ worth of crap with it. She could not tell me why it was 30$. So it is insurance against mistakes.
I will order the good kit after I am happy. Not the way most might do it. I got a 150$ worth of crap with it. She could not tell me why it was 30$. So it is insurance against mistakes.
Post up pics before you install it.
Yes. Have one on the bench. Not bad, not earth shattering either. Does come with caber's, and that's a plus.
jr27236
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Screwing in what to tight? The needle? Yes you may damage the seat and needle, but THAT flooding issue would NOT cause a scored cylinder, the most you'd get is a no start/flood issue or maybe you'd hydo-lock your motor by the case having fuel leaked in, but a scored piston on the exhaust side is due to a LEAN out condition causing the motor to overheat. Carb/coil are not your issue, please listen to our advise. But if you want to turn a knockoff kit saw into a money pit and the cost of a name brand saw, that's your decision. This thread has unbelievably received numerous replies and at this point we all have concussions from banging are heads against the wall. Lol
Also, why would you want to place a lessor p&c on their to make sure it's good, only to pull off and replace with a better quality one? Once you restore compression with the cheap one and it starts does not mean you "fixed" the root cause.
Install the setup you ultimately want and do a pressure/vacation test. Ask the guy at the dealer to do it for you after assembly if you can not.
Health issues is why many of the older farts ended up in this place...me...motorcycles traded for saws...
JUST think of all the benefits. A hobby that can actually help the household vs. one that breaks down everything cartilage all the while costing huge dollars. Arthur has set up shop with a vengeance on all abused joints...but the saw hobby keeps things moving and helps the cardio as well! Some pay to go to a gym. Take that money instead and get a clone kit or Poulan and pull like crazy.. but it looks like after 9 pages and several days going on weeks we are getting to the point of this. And a few guys offered to help fix the saw as well. I do understand this can be a great low cost training exercise in saw mechanics & repair. Almost better than going to school!
Cross on the left, Huztl "standard" 54 on the right
The leaking carb is most likely the needle under the metering diaphragm and could be caused by numerous things. I don't think he's worried to much about the money aspect as much as he wanted to learn about how a saw works and he's defiantly learn how a saw goes together. And now the proper way to trouble shoot at his expense. Lessons learned the hard way is never forgotten.
Did not say scoring was on exhaust side of jug. No reason do beat your head. Slow down and read. If I am wrong just expect it I am learning.
I do not have a time table. If others join in and post and it winds up many pages so what. Lol it's community.
pretty much everyone here has nothing but time...other wise....
Actually, no. They are about the same in surface finish.
Sometimes in working on these projects we learn as much from mistakes as we do from successes. You have every right to do it any way you want, no one is saying otherwise. Lots of good people are here ready to help if you want it, I would suggest some reading on pressure vac testing, it's an invaluable tool when diagnosing problems with 2cycles. A small leak can cause big problems.
The exhaust is actually smaller, lower or longer to open past TDC, but the intake is larger. Possibly the transfer where it intersects the cylinder. It might be raised a bit relative to Huztls, but the intake can be replicated in about 5 minutes with a die grinder. If the transfers are different, a little more skill would be required...and the exhaust? It wud be a biatch to add material on that hole with that operational heat range
To me the proof is in the running. see....if all you nut cases were closer, we could build different iterations and just run them back to back! And the question would be how much different would they run all other things considered? 54mm vs. 54, and best 54mm vs. the different 56mm versions. Takes one person a LOT of time. BUT who knows...
Cross left, Farmertec right, definitely going to be different! Curious on how they both run.
Brad would be the best in predicting how they would compare, my guess is the cross will pull harder at lower rpms. Just a guess. Less blow down and longer number in opening the exhaust. More intake duration and x-sectional area. I haven't measured the combustion chamber or measured compression....and actually probably won't do anything but assemble and run, and measure or over analyze any of them. Simply don't have time to . I have to slip back over into Husky land as I have a pile of 385's to dig through.
Brad would be the best in predicting how they would compare, my guess is the cross will pull harder at lower rpms. Just a guess. Less blow down and longer number in opening the exhaust. More intake duration and x-sectional area. I haven't measured the combustion chamber or measured compression....and actually probably won't do anything but assemble and run, and measure or over analyze any of them. Simply don't have time to . I have to slip back over into Husky land as I have a pile of 385's to dig through.
