Chain Break Mania

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We have had the STIHL MS261 chain brakes become hard to operate after cutting certain types of wood. Have to disassemble and clean out under the covers, and around the brake bands. If we weren't using them regularly, we might not notice this, which could lead to a bad situation.

I would prefer that they not jam up. But pretty easy to replace the parts, if needed.

Philbert
Its inherent in the MS261's design for everything under the plastic covers to get coated/packed full of oil/sawdust/crud in fairly short order. It becomes more problematic if you use canola that gums up after a while exposed to air, what can normally be cleaned with compressed air & brush instead needs a pick, scraper or pressure washer to clean. Same goes for behind the clutch, all the case fastener hole fill with crud, the whole lot becomes a mess. I know all saws get oil/sawdust in funny places but the MS261 is notoriously bad for this.
 
The way they push for the chain brake to be used between cuts, you would think they would come up with a chain brake dead man switch on the wrap handle that would activate as soon as you let go, also serves a second purpose of making sure nobody runs their saw with only one hand. Sounds like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist, except to scream about how safe you will be when operating it.
 
The way they push for the chain brake to be used between cuts, you would think they would come up with a chain brake dead man switch on the wrap handle that would activate as soon as you let go, . . . .

STIHL made some saws with a secondary brake activation on the rear handles ('QR'?). Never tried one personally.

Philbert
 
Some guys just don't anything new.

I remember when cell phones came out (who really needs those?).

Then cell phones with CAMERAS !!! Seriously, WHO needs a CAMERA ont heir PHONE?

OMG! Why on earth would you want to connect your telephone to the INTERNET?

My Dad used to tell me how, when he grew up, there was just one phone on the block, and they would send a kid running down the street to find somebody if they got a call.

Philbert
 
Yep, my 261 needs a thorough cleaning weekly lol
I was worried about my 261 Arctic cutting in heavy snow with snow raining down on the starter side and blocking off the air vents.
I know there’s an optional skirt for that known as duct tape.
I was more concerned about getting a water score on the intake skirt, but Stihl has done a great job with the filter system and it never got wet in the air box.
Does anyone know if the 261 Arctic has a heated carb?
Also I’m afraid of compressed air on those tiny circuit boards under the hood. What do you guys use or am I worrying too much?
 
I hope all you clickers out there are keenly aware that clicking that brake on-off 200 times a day will not prevent most chainsaw injuries. Number one injury cause is kickback - not something clicking will prevent, and may actually cause you to be injured if you wore your chainbrake out clicking it 10,000 times. Number 2 is blind cutting (think your feet or lower extremities) - again not prevented by clicking. Then there is fatigue... clicking may help you there if you are tired and walking through uneven terrain and have both hands on the saw - otherwise, nope, clicking won't help if you are a tired cutter who momentarily loses control of the saw. Not to mention, if you fall with two hands on the saw after clicking and the chainbrake handle hits something and deactivates on your way down, you still may be injured. So don 't walk around with 2 hands on the saw.

Don't forget about lightning strikes, attacks by tigers escaped from the local zoo, martian invasions and spontaneous combustion.

A chain brake won't protect you from those dangers, either. And if that's not a bulletproof argument NOT to use chain brakes, I don't know what would be!

So...chain brakes wear out from clicking them? Never heard that...I guess I'll use the same logic with my car and drag my feet to stop.

I'm sure the steel linkage on a gun "safety" will wear out and break after a trillion or 10 trillion cycles, too. Better not use that, either.

You talk about 10,000 cycles of the chain brake. Does anyone actually know how many cycles it will last? Whether it's 10k or 100k or a million, I wonder how many centuries it would take to reach the magic number. Regardless, there's no way to predict whether the next use of the brake will be the one to fail, whether you click the brake 100 times a day or zero times a day.

Maybe the chainsaw makers need to add a computerized "brake clicker counter." YEAH!
 
Lol yeah, if my chainbreak cant protect me from a korean nuclear warhead them im just going to cut it off.

Yep, seat belts and airbags and shatterproof windshields can't protect me from carjackings, either. That's why I ripped them all out.

Safety Nazis ruin everything
 
The new air filters are SO much better.

I use compressed air, but with reasonable care - anything can be overdone.

Philbert
I worked with a guy in the UK that HAD one on his Husqvarna.
It broke off. So then in this case then it would be deemed unsafe to run? So if it is designed for two brakes then it has to have two opratable brakes.
It would be easy to break it imo. According to one of the two Assessor's we had when I challenged the course;' he Said Dave was into them. Dave has a extensive background as a Faller and still active if he can get the time between Teaching & Assessments. It surprised me but there ya go.
 
If the saw has one I'll use it. If not, I'll usually cut the saw off when I have to move more than a step or two.
It just takes a flick of the wrist to engage on my Macs. Can reach forward with one finger to reset and not even let go of the handle. Mostly bucking firewood. I put it on and off when I'm noodling, since I have to reach down and set the next block up. Also use it when the wife is doing setup. Shed be pretty hard to live with if I cut off any parts that she needs, and probably would deny access to parts that I needs henceforth.....
 
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