Chain grinders

[MCW]

How's the MAXX compare to the 511 in terms of consistency of cutter length and switching from one side to the other. It looks like a nice set-up but is it worth the extra money over the Oregon 511? I've been eyeing the ones Baileys has.

I'll be honest and I have a MAXX Pro Grinder with all the whizz bang grind into the cutter on both sides stuff etc etc. I like it and do get really good results. However, I do plan on buying another grinder to use as well (as a back up and to have one set up for sharpening and one for depth guages), and I'll be buying the hydraulic vice Oregon workshop version (not sure of Model number) even though in Australia its about $100 dearer.
The only problem I can see of the MAXX compared to the Oregon version I just mentioned is that;
1) On the Oregon models the wheels are easier and faster to remove and put back on the machine when swapping sizes or changing to the depth guage wheel (not a big deal but is a pain when you're in a hurry and have a heap of chains to grind). I've been doing a lot more grinding than normal as I got hold of 3/8" .063" Carlton Ripping chain for USD$110 for 100' so am grinding it to 30° and doing the depth guages to suit - ah lah semi chisel, just about 15% shorter cutters than new semi chisel
2) Despite favouring the "grind into each cutter" left and right advertisements, I have found that although you do get a few more burrs when grinding away from the cutter, in the field its not noticable - I've just found that grinding away from the cutter can create more heat on the cutting edge than grinding into a cutter, especially if you have to take more metal off. I was a big believer in grinding into the cutter a while back but in reality its not that big of a deal.
3) I have noticed some flex in the plastic/nylon chain stop adjustment arm that I didn't notice when using the pro Oregon grinders.
4) The biggest concern - Every time I swap from grinding left to right I have to readjust the depth setting and the cutter length. If the machine was completely square (can't think of the right word at the moment!) this shouldn't happen as far as I'm concerned. I also remember this being part of their marketing ploy.

However, if you sharpen a lot of chains, the auto vice clamp is awesome
I have also heard of a problem with the odd hydraulic vice clamp leaking on the Oregon model but I'll take my chances.
I believe the MAXX is better than the 511A and AX etc now that they've banned the reversing switch but not better than the hydraulic Oregon. If you know someone that can install a DPDT switch for reversing then even better although that'll kill your warranty. I plan on doing it to my MAXX soon to speed things up even further
Sorry about the long post but hope it helps.
Matt

 

[Philbert]

Thanks MCW for sharing your experience with the MAXX.

The Oregon you are planning to buy is the same as the 511A, except for the hydraulic vice, right?

Philbert

 

[MCW]

Thanks MCW for sharing your experience with the MAXX.

The Oregon you are planning to buy is the same as the 511A, except for the hydraulic vice, right?

Philbert

I'm pretty sure you're right. I haven't compared them side by side but I'm pretty sure thats the only difference.

 

[Philbert]

I really like the idea of the auto locking chain vice - let us know how it works.

I noted that Tecomec also sells a stand that lets you use a foot pedal to lower the grinding wheel - thought that that was also a neat idea that you could rig up yourself. But not sure if I could control the wheel without burning, etc.

Anybody out there tried the foot pedal?

http://www2.tecomec.it/database/tec...E377B27F4F8E4BCAC1256E670057F631?OpenDocument

Philbert

 

[Paul001]

I really like the idea of the auto locking chain vice - let us know how it works.

I noted that Tecomec also sells a stand that lets you use a foot pedal to lower the grinding wheel - thought that that was also a neat idea that you could rig up yourself. But not sure if I could control the wheel without burning, etc.

Anybody out there tried the foot pedal?

http://www2.tecomec.it/database/tec...E377B27F4F8E4BCAC1256E670057F631?OpenDocument

Philbert

Yeah, the three units I mentioned earlier in this thread are all foot pedal controlled. I found it to be easy to use as both hands are free to advance the chain...but I also ended up with my right hand on the grinder, just because thats what I've grown use to.

 

[Philbert]

Yeah, the three units I mentioned earlier in this thread are all foot pedal controlled. I found it to be easy to use as both hands are free to advance the chain....

Thanks Paul - do you feel like you can control the grind OK with the foot pedal?


MCW - I was taking a look at the photo of the hydraulic unit at the Tecomec website. Can you adjust the 'vice tilt angle' (Oregon's term) on the hyd. unit? I don't see that in the photo.

This is the semi-circular part of the vice base that lets you set the chain for what would be the 90 degree or -10 degree file holding (or file guide) angle if your were manually sharpening (kind of hard to describe all the angles with the chain roll/pitch/yaw here).



Philbert

 

[Paul001]

No worries as far as control. It was set up with a pulley instead of just a chain to a foot pedal. Took less pressure and gave it a nice feel.

 

[MCW]

MCW - I was taking a look at the photo of the hydraulic unit at the Tecomec website. Can you adjust the 'vice tilt angle' (Oregon's term) on the hyd. unit? I don't see that in the photo.

This is the semi-circular part of the vice base that lets you set the chain for what would be the 90 degree or -10 degree file holding (or file guide) angle if your were manually sharpening (kind of hard to describe all the angles with the chain roll/pitch/yaw here).



Philbert

Yeah it adjusts from +15° to -15°. Thats one problem with the cheap grinders, you can't adjust them to +/-10° to properly sharpen chisel chain - even though sharpening at 0° is still OK compared to a blunt chain (I've done it in the past with my old grinder)
The head angle is adjustable from 55° to 90°. I use 60° for sharpening and 15° for depth guages - 15° seems to replicate the angles on a File-O-Plate which is what I use to set the correct depths to start with.
The auto vice lock is also brilliant. No problems at all and saves a lot of time and dramas - you also can hold the tooth down with one finger (sometimes they have a tendency to pop off the rail and then get sharpened at the wrong angle etc) while pulling down the grinder handle to sharpen. You can even pick your nose with your spare hand while sharpening to get the grinder dust out. That stuff ends up everywhere...
Matt

 

[Philbert]

Thanks.

(Good to know that you are keeping your nose clean, as opposed to keeping it to the grindstone!).

Philbert

 

[almondgt]

I'll be honest and I have a MAXX Pro Grinder with all the whizz bang grind into the cutter on both sides stuff etc etc. I like it and do get really good results. However, I do plan on buying another grinder to use as well (as a back up and to have one set up for sharpening and one for depth guages), and I'll be buying the hydraulic vice Oregon workshop version (not sure of Model number) even though in Australia its about $100 dearer.
The only problem I can see of the MAXX compared to the Oregon version I just mentioned is that;
1) On the Oregon models the wheels are easier and faster to remove and put back on the machine when swapping sizes or changing to the depth guage wheel (not a big deal but is a pain when you're in a hurry and have a heap of chains to grind). I've been doing a lot more grinding than normal as I got hold of 3/8" .063" Carlton Ripping chain for USD$110 for 100' so am grinding it to 30° and doing the depth guages to suit - ah lah semi chisel, just about 15% shorter cutters than new semi chisel
2) Despite favouring the "grind into each cutter" left and right advertisements, I have found that although you do get a few more burrs when grinding away from the cutter, in the field its not noticable - I've just found that grinding away from the cutter can create more heat on the cutting edge than grinding into a cutter, especially if you have to take more metal off. I was a big believer in grinding into the cutter a while back but in reality its not that big of a deal.
3) I have noticed some flex in the plastic/nylon chain stop adjustment arm that I didn't notice when using the pro Oregon grinders.
4) The biggest concern - Every time I swap from grinding left to right I have to readjust the depth setting and the cutter length. If the machine was completely square (can't think of the right word at the moment!) this shouldn't happen as far as I'm concerned. I also remember this being part of their marketing ploy.

However, if you sharpen a lot of chains, the auto vice clamp is awesome
I have also heard of a problem with the odd hydraulic vice clamp leaking on the Oregon model but I'll take my chances.
I believe the MAXX is better than the 511A and AX etc now that they've banned the reversing switch but not better than the hydraulic Oregon. If you know someone that can install a DPDT switch for reversing then even better although that'll kill your warranty. I plan on doing it to my MAXX soon to speed things up even further
Sorry about the long post but hope it helps.
Matt

How do you calculate or compensate for your issue mentioned in Paragraph or issue number 4)? I have the same problem with my Oregon 511a.
Jonsered:greenchainsaw:
Husqvarna :greenchainsaw:
Stihl :greenchainsaw:

 

[City Slicker]

Grinders

Good info guys!

 

[JoeCanuck]

Well I guess I'm gonna finally break down and buy a grinder too. The tradesman in me wants the quality of a Maxx or a Jolly Star, but for the amount of sharpening I do it's tough to justify the cost. If I cheap out on a knock-off, I have two questions:

Have the Northern grinders improved or do they still require mod's like the shim and washer explained in other threads?

Is the Bailey's version identical to the Northern or just kinda similar (better/worse)?

I see Bailey's is out of stock on the knock-off. Maybe this is my excuse to rationalize ordering the Maxx or Jolly Star. Someone give me a shove. :greenchainsaw:

Joe

 

[SteveH]

Ok, get the Maxx. Just do it. Good quality tools are worth a bit more. Think about how nice it'll be to use a good grinder and not have to fool with "rigging" a junker. Good tools are a pleasure to use.

Well, that's your money I'm spending but you DID say to shove, so I am shoving. [Plus, I just got the Maxx myself after procrastinating a long time...I haven't used it yet but am impressed with its apparent quality.]

 

[MCW]

How do you calculate or compensate for your issue mentioned in Paragraph or issue number 4)? I have the same problem with my Oregon 511a.

I haven't really found any obvious way to fix it, I just readjust the cutter length settings and check them with my calipers to get even lengths then start sharpening again. I also have to adjust the head depth as well. If anybody else has a MAXX and doesn't have this problem I'd like to know as I'll send it back to GB for a replacement (GB are the Australian distributors).

 

[City Slicker]

?

Who makes the Jolly Star? Is it better than the Maxx?

 

[MCW]

Who makes the Jolly Star? Is it better than the Maxx?

I think the Jolly Stars are Italian made and they're a good grinder. Not as many fancy features as the MAXX and probably a bit slower to use but they'd do just as good a job, maybe even better.

 

[Philbert]

How do you calculate or compensate for your issue mentioned in Paragraph or issue number 4)? I have the same problem with my Oregon 511a

This is the vice centering issue - common on several grinders (although the new 511AX and Jolly Star claim to have a self-centering vice).

Two options:

1. Try taking a new chain and placing it in the vice. Set up the grinder for the Right hand cutter, then for the Left hand cutter (without actually grinding). Use the hex bolt on the side of the vice to adjust the chain so it is centered and the grinding wheel hits both cutters the same.

OR

2. Grind one Right cutter on a dull chain, then one Left hand cutter. Measure with a micrometer, and adjust.

Once you get it set, you shouldn't have to adjust it frequently.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

I think the Jolly Stars are Italian made . . .

Tecomec makes the Oregon grinders, their own (Jolly Star), and I think several others (Speed Sharp?).

I would buy the Jolly Star or Oregon 511 AX Grinder if buying a new one.

Philbert

 

[moose42]

Ok, get the Maxx. Just do it. Good quality tools are worth a bit more. Think about how nice it'll be to use a good grinder and not have to fool with "rigging" a junker. Good tools are a pleasure to use.

+1 :agree2:

 

[Modifiedmark]

Tecomec makes the Oregon grinders, their own (Jolly Star), and I think several others (Speed Sharp?).

I would buy the Jolly Star or Oregon 511 AX Grinder if buying a new one.

Philbert

Absolutly correct, the new style chain vise is worth it, and it works very well for me.