MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
I got so excited when I read your post that I sprinted out to the MAXX but alas, no hex headed bolt to be seen on the side of the vice. I gather this is an Oregon only feature?
Chain grinders
- Thread starter Wolfking42084
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I got so excited when I read your post that I sprinted out to the MAXX but alas, no hex headed bolt to be seen on the side of the vice. I gather this is an Oregon only feature?
stihl025
ArboristSite Guru
Philbert,
Great advice. Not realizing my Northern Tool grinder was meant to be adjusted (centered) like that, I made the necessary adjustments and the grinder has never been better. Thanks.
Glad it worked for you Stihl025. I like the Oregon / Tecomec grinders, but the instruction manual is not very clear.
Sorry it didn't work for you MCW - I have never seen the MAXX grinders in person. But check again in your manual, and look again at your vice to see if there is anyway to shim or adjust it, and let us know.
Philbert
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think it's great that decent grinders are being discussed in some detail.
A grinder is a tool that will be used for every saw you will ever own and is in fact cheaper to operate than filing.
And yet some people want to spend less than a third the cost of a single saw .
No wonder so many people would rather file than grind....
A grinder is a tool that will be used for every saw you will ever own and is in fact cheaper to operate than filing.
And yet some people want to spend less than a third the cost of a single saw .
No wonder so many people would rather file than grind....
Last edited:
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Thanks for the help Philbert. I checked the very lame manual and there are only 3 whole pages in English. 1 1/2 of these relate to not getting sparks in your eye, not cutting your fingers off etc, 1/2 a page is bragging about the MAXX's revolutionary design, and the rest is dedicated to sharpening a chain. No adjustment info for my problem is in there. I actually discussed this crappy intruction manual with the dealer when I bought it. Might adjust it with a sledgehammer. Nah, I'll get in touch with GB who import them in Australia.
KindlingKing
ArboristSite Operative
I'll be honest and I have a MAXX Pro Grinder with all the whizz bang grind into the cutter on both sides stuff etc etc. I like it and do get really good results. However, I do plan on buying another grinder to use as well (as a back up and to have one set up for sharpening and one for depth guages), and I'll be buying the hydraulic vice Oregon workshop version (not sure of Model number) even though in Australia its about $100 dearer.
The only problem I can see of the MAXX compared to the Oregon version I just mentioned is that;
1) On the Oregon models the wheels are easier and faster to remove and put back on the machine when swapping sizes or changing to the depth guage wheel (not a big deal but is a pain when you're in a hurry and have a heap of chains to grind). I've been doing a lot more grinding than normal as I got hold of 3/8" .063" Carlton Ripping chain for USD$110 for 100' so am grinding it to 30° and doing the depth guages to suit - ah lah semi chisel, just about 15% shorter cutters than new semi chisel
2) Despite favouring the "grind into each cutter" left and right advertisements, I have found that although you do get a few more burrs when grinding away from the cutter, in the field its not noticable - I've just found that grinding away from the cutter can create more heat on the cutting edge than grinding into a cutter, especially if you have to take more metal off. I was a big believer in grinding into the cutter a while back but in reality its not that big of a deal.
3) I have noticed some flex in the plastic/nylon chain stop adjustment arm that I didn't notice when using the pro Oregon grinders.
4) The biggest concern - Every time I swap from grinding left to right I have to readjust the depth setting and the cutter length. If the machine was completely square (can't think of the right word at the moment!) this shouldn't happen as far as I'm concerned. I also remember this being part of their marketing ploy.
However, if you sharpen a lot of chains, the auto vice clamp is awesome
I have also heard of a problem with the odd hydraulic vice clamp leaking on the Oregon model but I'll take my chances.
I believe the MAXX is better than the 511A and AX etc now that they've banned the reversing switch but not better than the hydraulic Oregon. If you know someone that can install a DPDT switch for reversing then even better although that'll kill your warranty. I plan on doing it to my MAXX soon to speed things up even further
Sorry about the long post but hope it helps.
Matt
MWC,
I really appreciate all the good insights and advice. Very helpful indeed!
City Slicker
ArboristSite Operative
Great!
Is there different models of the Maxx grinder?
Which model number do I look for?
Is there different models of the Maxx grinder?
Which model number do I look for?
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
I don't think they have many models. Mine is just labelled the "MAXX
Pro Grinder".
mowoodchopper
Polar Bear
Hey , this is a stupid question , but how do you guys deal with the little bur or what ever you call it? I have trouble, more on one side than the other of the grinder leaving that little rough edge of metal ? I wasnt sure if it hurts or if it gets knocked off as soon as you put it in the wood. Oregon 511a grinder!
Also which chains are you guys using the 10 degree file angle on? Most chains, they say to file on the 10 degree deal. I wasnt sure if it was same when using a grinder or not? The local husky guy says he only uses it on certain chains!
Also which chains are you guys using the 10 degree file angle on? Most chains, they say to file on the 10 degree deal. I wasnt sure if it was same when using a grinder or not? The local husky guy says he only uses it on certain chains!
I let it get knocked off in the wood - most of it is pretty brittle and falls right off. You can push it off with a small stick if it bothers you.
The 10 degree angle depends on the chain. I think that most STIHL chains are filed at 90 degrees. Look at the insert that came with your chain, or look it up (Oregon chains) in their Maintenance and Safety Guide. http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/tech_safety.htm
The Oregon 511A type grinders lets you tilt the vice for this angle when grinding.
Philbert
blakey
ArboristSite Operative
Poor man's hydraulic vise
I have only had my NT grinder for a couple months but I found a way to speed up grinding the rakers. I clamp the chain vise tight enough so the chain will still slide but is not sloppy. I then advance the chain with my left hand and bring the wheel down with my right. Saves a lot of time not having to clamp and unclamp every time. I still clamp tight when grinding the cutters. Anyone else do this?
I have only had my NT grinder for a couple months but I found a way to speed up grinding the rakers. I clamp the chain vise tight enough so the chain will still slide but is not sloppy. I then advance the chain with my left hand and bring the wheel down with my right. Saves a lot of time not having to clamp and unclamp every time. I still clamp tight when grinding the cutters. Anyone else do this?
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
The 10° angle is for full chisel chain only (presume square is the same if using a square grinder?). All semi chisel is 90° or flat.
The small burr people are worried about is torn off about 1/100th of a second after it hits wood. It's ugly but in reality doesn't cause any problems at all or make any noticable difference to cutting.
mowoodchopper
Polar Bear
Philbert & MCW
Thanks for the info guys, I thought the burr was a no worry deal, and Ill go with the 10 degree tilt on the full chisel, thanks.
Thanks for the info guys, I thought the burr was a no worry deal, and Ill go with the 10 degree tilt on the full chisel, thanks.
breymeyerfam
Addicted to ArboristSite
in all actuality can you tell a difference it the wood with the 10° tilt compared to not tilted on a full chisle chain, and what does it do?
If your getting the burr on it, it means your taking alot off at one time, try taking less of a cut even if you need to do em twice.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
I have noticed a very slight difference in wood using 10° over 90° (flat) but its not substantial in my experience. The 10° angle from what I remember is used in chisel because full chisel has a single cutting point - this means the grinder/file direction is aimed at that cutting point across the tooth (10° according to manufacturers specs).
Put it this way, if you do a lot of cutting you'll notice it, but if you grind full chisel at 90° and don't cut a massive amount you'll be more than happy
I've got a mate that uses nothing but full chisel on green wood in Tasmania, has a cheap grinder without the 10° function, and he thinks its the best thing since sliced bread!
JoeCanuck
ArboristSite Operative
Price Increase Heads Up
Just got the new Bailey's catalogue and their version of the Chinese knock-off went from $119.95 to $159.95 Quite a jump. :jawdrop:
Checked online - same thing. It's also back ordered to mid March.
Northern still seems to have stock @ $119.95.
Sign of things to come? :monkey:
Joe
Just got the new Bailey's catalogue and their version of the Chinese knock-off went from $119.95 to $159.95 Quite a jump. :jawdrop:
Checked online - same thing. It's also back ordered to mid March.
Northern still seems to have stock @ $119.95.
Sign of things to come? :monkey:
Joe
511AX here, replaced my 511A with it. Much improvement in the chain vise. Got it through Northern tools for 338.00, free shipping and a 25 dollar gift certificate. Don't know what kind of deals they have going now.
raccerx67
ArboristSite Lurker
new Maxx GB750 here
I took the plunge and got a Maxx GB750, arrived on 2-20-09. I sharpened 2 of my old very used up Stihl RMC chains with it. I used the 0-30-60 degree angles. All I can say is it has done a fantastic job so far!!! I do find you have to adjust the "cutter stop" a small amount when going from left to right cutters, but the depth stop is consistent on both cutters. I have used the Oregon 511 several times and a cpl other levels of chain grinders. I ran 5 tanks of fuel out on that chain cutting 12" to 24" red oak. I was totally worn out and the chain was still cutting perfect! At this point I have to say the MAXX is the best grinder I have ever used.
I took the plunge and got a Maxx GB750, arrived on 2-20-09. I sharpened 2 of my old very used up Stihl RMC chains with it. I used the 0-30-60 degree angles. All I can say is it has done a fantastic job so far!!! I do find you have to adjust the "cutter stop" a small amount when going from left to right cutters, but the depth stop is consistent on both cutters. I have used the Oregon 511 several times and a cpl other levels of chain grinders. I ran 5 tanks of fuel out on that chain cutting 12" to 24" red oak. I was totally worn out and the chain was still cutting perfect! At this point I have to say the MAXX is the best grinder I have ever used.
kstill361
ArboristSite Operative
:agree2: I posted this in another thread with a pic , you need to center the vise and make new marks.
http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=87173
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
Mark your calendar: the 2024 PNW GTG is happening June 13th though June 16th.- Latest: jordan henson
-
