chain parts, pieces, and other questions

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eyeinstine

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Hey folks,
I'm hoping someone with some experience putting together their own chains could give me some tips.
First off, since buying and picking up alot of parts saws, and old abandoned saws, i have a nice stack of good chains, some look new. But they always seem to be the wrong length for the given saw/pitch i need. I just picked up a chain breaker/punch, but still looking for a good deal on a spinner..

Is there any other way of reconnecting a chain (safely) without the spinner tool?? Or is ther a simple tool to make or use?? i guess a flat punch and hammer doesnt work? :)

what about the connector links.. Do they HAVE to match the brand of chain?? Obviously, size and pitch have to be right, but does brand matter? I want to pick up a small assortment of links to have on hand for reconnecting chains, but surely dont want to have every size of each brand on hand. With all the saws i have now, i think i have every size and pitch in use!

TIA,
Ron

ps. if anyone has a cheap spinner, or some connector links they want to sell, PM me!
 
You can assemble chains using a punch peen method.Just make sure your rivet heads are formed over well.Watch e-bay,sometimes spinners come up,reasonable.I think I had a total of $17 in mine.I don't do much assembly because Baileys will spin up loops for about a buck a piece ,and normally has standard loops for about the price,if not cheaper than by the individual link price.
 
There is a lot of interchange possible but there are exceptions, so you would have to know what to look for. The preset rivets have to be designed for the proper diameter pivot holes and thickness of the drive links you are joining. A good hand riveting job is possible if the rivet shank is expanded to fill the tapered hole in the tie straps. It is also possible to put on a head that looks ok but does not fill the hole and will soon loosen. On the other extreme the rivet can be over expanded and crack the tie straps. The short answer is maybe ok if you know what you are doing. Some where in print I have seen detailed procedure for hand riveting chain with the precautions, but can't tell you where I saw it.
 
The best method in my opinion is from a spinner, other methods will work but it is harder to get a good finish. Baileys has a vise grip type spinner that will work but I prefer a bench mount. As for ties I do not believe brand matters, but size is critical. Connecting a bunch of chain parts can be ok as long as they all have the same cutter wear. If you join a 1/2 worn chain to a 3/4 worn chain, that is a problem. Also join the same type of chain, can't mix semi and full. Best method for a bunch of re-usable different length chain is to join them all together to make one long roll and cut off what you need. Baileys also sells a chain guide that mounts on a work table or glue it to a board and it has the links marked by size and count. Just attach the chain at one end and you mark where to cut. Saves a lot of time and is much easier that 1-2-3 by hand. Good luck. ;)
 
how does a spinner work? I've looked at pictures of them, but am not sure if I had one, I'd know what to do with it !! (nothnig unusual there ... lol) on all the made up loops I've had, I've tried to "spot" the "homemade" rivit, and have been unable to do it. Some people say that the homespun rivits are stronger (harder to punch out) than the factory jobs ?
 
Thanks for all the responses...

I'll definitly be on the lookout for the bench mounted spinner.. I've been hawkin' ebay for months now.. i finally scored a bench mounted punch; but good deals are hard to come by! Al, 17$ for the spinner?!?! You crook! :) hope i can manage to put one together for that.

On the tie strap parts; thanks for the info on that too. I knew enough that size, pitch, cutter type had to be the same; I was really just questioning the use of the same type and size chain and/or links from different makers. It sounds like that is the case for the most part. Assuming the rivit dia. and hole dia. are correct, and all being equal, then it should work. Someone mentioned about the remaining cutter length when joining used chains. I hadnt given that a thought, but probably would have realized that when putting together the first chain. But for me, for the most part, i'm looking to shorten used, but good chains. I would probably just have a 'parts can' for the short remaining peices left over. On some occassions they could be used to lengthen a chain if needed, but then all cutters would need to be filed down to match the shortest cutter. So it would be best to try and match cutter length when dealing with the chains made of various pieces.

I would deifintly be interested in any more info, or a web page, detailing how to join the chains without a spinner. ie: punch and hammer method. I have some chains i need to work with now, but need to wait for a good deal on a spinner as this is only a hobby.

thanks again
Ron
 
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