Chain sharpener

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TopJimmy

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Ok, so I have had several opinions regarding whether purchasing a sharpener makes sense. I don't care about the time required to take the chains to the shop. I am in the area on a regular basis, so dropping off a few chains does not take much time, plus I keep enough chains that running out of sharp chains is rarely a problem. The main argument for doing your own sharpening seems to be that I would take better care of my chains. I have had chains sharpened in the past and had them returned with the teeth blue. I now take them to a professonal sharpening shop that also does my circular and planer blades. I got 6 chains back today and they look good to me. With this type of shop, do I still need to worry?

Also, if I buy, what should I look for. I think I will bypass the cheaper ones and if I buy get a good quality one. Someone in a previous thread linked to one on ebay for around 200.00 that is supposed to be the same as the oregon. It does not appear to have the hydraulic stop. This seems like a good feature, is it?

I would love to only spend 200.00, but I think I would be willing to spend up to 350-400.00. I don't think I want to get into the 600-750.00 range. What do you seasoned pros reccomend?

Thanks,

Jim
 
Files, round ones and flat ones. They are around $2 each, working fine for me for over 20 years.
 
clearance said:
Files, round ones and flat ones. They are around $2 each, working fine for me for over 20 years.

Amen, Clearance! I am with you. I usually use hand files - besides, it is pretty peaceful to sharpen chains in the shop! I just recently bought a Harbor Frieght special for $29.99. It works good on a rocked out, wasted chain.

TopJimmy - sharpen your own chains by hand, and put the $200 dollars you saved on the grinder, and the $6-10 per chain for sharpening in your pocket, and head down to your local saw dealer and buy a new saw!
 
Thanks for the replies. Four Paws, I like the way you think! I can save so much money, I can buy a new saw - sounds just like my wife justfying a new pair of shoes. Or when she walks in with two big shopping bags and says "I wasn't planning on buying anything, but they had a sale, Look how much money I saved you" Gee thanks honey. Wait a minute, I think I see the light, new pair of shoes for her = new saw for me, yea I like it. Honey want to go buy a new pair of shoes?

Seriously, I am not sure that I have the patience to undertake the task of sharpening by hand. I have pleany of relaxing projects waiting for my attention in the shop already. I assume that the grinder will be much faster.

I will have to try a few by hand and maybe it will become therapeutic.

Thanks,

Jim
 
Its about even

I don't think the grinder will save you time over hand filing as you have to remove the chain before using the grinder. I have had pretty good luck with a clamp on guide to set my angles when filing by hand. I've tried it free hand but my angles end up all over the place. I just have no eye for that kind of thing. I usually give the chain 3 or 4 swipes with a file after cleaning the saw and it has served me well. Also I'm much more aware about keeping the chain out of the dirt and rocks.
 
I have a MAXX grinder on the way. It seemed the best bang for the buck. I'll report on it when it gets here. I priced them all over and they run $300+-. I've been sharpening by hand but I want to make some modified ripping chains. I don't trust any shop here to do it and $8 - $10 per loop for a 20" chain is a rip-off for the quality I've gotten. When I ask them about sharpening a 72" chain all I get is blank stares. I figure for myself $300 will be money well spent. Time will tell...
 
new to sharpening

If these chains are not safety chains I would recommend the husqvarna sharpener it uses files and is almost a fast as the grinder. less than 20 bucks at the hardware store and very easy to use.
 
Jimmy, put your saw in a vise, wear gloves, use two hands. Sharpen the saw before it is dull, the more you do it the faster you will get. Another benefit of knowing how to hand sharpen is that you can sharpen your (or anyones elses) saw in the field. Well worth it.
 
clearance said:
Jimmy, put your saw in a vise, wear gloves, use two hands. Sharpen the saw before it is dull, the more you do it the faster you will get. Another benefit of knowing how to hand sharpen is that you can sharpen your (or anyones elses) saw in the field. Well worth it.

I agree that you need to be able to sharpen by hand. When I need to change the angle for my mill the grinder is heven sent. Tonight a friend of mine helped me remove my saw from the mill and sharpen the chain. We took off no more than filling and my chain is right on the money,way better than the local saw shops, and to mill lumber the chain MUST be right. I am no dummy but I can't get a chain as correct as my grinder does. Just my 2 cents worth.
Mark
 
Last edited:
I do not think that a grinder is faster than a file, but I do believe it can be significantly better than a file (better finish, consistent angles, proper depth etc). The emphasis being "can be" - you need a good stone, need to true it correctly, set the rig up properly, and of course use it properly. You should be removing the chain to clean up and check the bar anyway. Just my thoughts.

George B
 
Busto963 said:
I do not think that a grinder is faster than a file, but I do believe it can be significantly better than a file (better finish, consistent angles, proper depth etc). The emphasis being "can be" - you need a good stone, need to true it correctly, set the rig up properly, and of course use it properly. You should be removing the chain to clean up and check the bar anyway. Just my thoughts.

George B
Welcome to the site George.
 
Bar mount sharpener

What are the pros and cons about
Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B
and the Stihl bar mount sharpener. Any one use these.
How about the bench sharpener?
Thanks John:monkey:
 
Reply to jramstead

Hi. I use the Granberg filing guide. Paying $8 a shot to have my chains ground was getting to be too much. I can't seem to freehand file worth a hoot. Once you figure out how to properly mount and adjust the guide (a pain), you can sit back and put a pretty good edge on your chains. Be sure to keep the guide lubricated. If you don't, you will prematurely wear out the bushings. I bought mine from Bailey's.
Good luck.
Vince
 
I must admit, I thought that this thread would become a discussion of the pros and cons of the various grinders available. I was wrong. I ordered a box of files and bought a single file with the guide on it. I am going to try it this way and see how I do. I may order a jig, but the look like a pain in the rear.

Thanks so much for all of the input.

Jim
 
fishhuntcutwood said:
Yeah, and if you want to get really extravegant, you can get a Granberg file guide! Works like a champ. $25.

Jeff
The guides cannot do what I can now, after doing it for years and being shown things by more experienced guys, like putting in a top hook by dropping the hand end of the file and changing the angle on the same stroke. Took me a while, so satisfying to be able to make something cut deadly.
 
TopJimmy said:
I must admit, I thought that this thread would become a discussion of the pros and cons of the various grinders available. I was wrong. I ordered a box of files and bought a single file with the guide on it. I am going to try it this way and see how I do. I may order a jig, but the look like a pain in the rear.

Thanks so much for all of the input.

Jim

Be patient. Same pressure, same angle, same amount of strokes. The old guy that taught me to set and file handsaws 30 years ago used to say, "The first hundred you do are just practice."
 

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