Chain Sharpening In the Field

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RobR45

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I have been using a Husqvarna 36 for a few years, and I have always used Husqvarna's file to sharpen the chain in the field. I also have a Husqvarna file for my 455 Rancher. I am able to keep the chains sharp for a while, but eventually it seems like the files get less effective in keeping the chains sharpened. What do you guys use to keep your chains at maximum sharpness? Any special files or jigs? Where do you purchase them? Any suggestions on sharpening would be welcomed. Thanks a lot!

-Robert
 
Here is a link to the chain sharpening forum:

http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=74

Lots of information here and there about it. Sounds like your file is worn out, I go through a file every few sharpenings, they're cheap, buy them by the dozen and keep a sharp one in your guide. Practice is the key, you will get it eventually. Your goal is consistency, keeping the angles the same from tooth to tooth and learning your particulars, like which side of the chain you remove more from and adjusting your style to keep the teeth the same.

Other thing is not to let your chains get completely smoked before you sharpen them. I give 2-5 strokes on each tooth at almost every refuel, my chain is never actually dull, I have a lot more fun cutting since I learned this trick- only takes a couple minutes, good time for a break.
 
Ah hell to sharpening the chain in the field just make sure you take three okay four saw's with sharp chains with you. lol This is just a joke!!!
I am anal about keeping my chains sharp and touch them up after two tank fulls of fuel or less if I hit the ground it happens. I don't care much for semi chisel chain cut's way to slow for my liking, had to add that part.
 
i use this method:
handfile in the feild
use the guided system at home to true the chain back up.
the guided system that i use is one of the ones that clamp on to the bar with set angles on it.
baileys sells a nice all metal guided system. my roommate just bought one off of them and it works great but it was missing a little gromet that keeps the file straight so they sent him a new one for free!
 
filing

I fie em' in the field, on the truck tailgate, after every tank of fuel. Usually is 1-3 strokes. I've been expirementing with filing both sides of cutters without moving, and using my left hand. But sometimes I still have to file from the tip. Then every night I file them in the vice.:greenchainsaw:
 
Are your sharp chains throwing saw dust or wood chips as you cut?
 
I have been using a Husqvarna 36 for a few years, and I have always used Husqvarna's file to sharpen the chain in the field. I also have a Husqvarna file for my 455 Rancher. I am able to keep the chains sharp for a while, but eventually it seems like the files get less effective in keeping the chains sharpened. ....

Toss them, they wear pretty fast, and get new ones by the dozen - and make sure they are the right size for the chain.......:cheers:

Also, touch up the chains before they get really dull, like once per 2 tanks if the wood is clean, more often if if is dirty.

Remember to take down the rakers as well, as you file the teeth back.
 
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I never thought I would switch

A wise older Gent sold me my Oregon 511, at the same time he told me about the Pferd filing system that Baileys has right now for around $16. This tool is one of these somewhat awkward plastic devices that doesn't look like it will work.

Well I was wrong. Just like everyone said, a hand filed chain does better than my grinder per tank. I use the grinder if I rock a chain, or to bring all the cutters back to sqaure. More often than not though, I sharpen with the pferd and buy a dozen files too. I clean the file really quickly with a fine wire brush between use.

Love the thing, and it does the rakers at the same time as the cutter.

Jason
 
I have been using a Husqvarna 36 for a few years, and I have always used Husqvarna's file to sharpen the chain in the field. I also have a Husqvarna file for my 455 Rancher. I am able to keep the chains sharp for a while, but eventually it seems like the files get less effective in keeping the chains sharpened. What do you guys use to keep your chains at maximum sharpness? Any special files or jigs? Where do you purchase them? Any suggestions on sharpening would be welcomed. Thanks a lot!

-Robert

Dumb question but are you taking the rakers down as you go?

My favorite guide is the little Husky one with the rollers that everyone throws away. 2-3 strokes and the cutter is razor sharp. WD-40 all over the chain, bar and file keep the file sharp and the filings clumped together so they can be cleaned easy. The raker guide has two slots. One for soft wood, one for hard.

I see a lot of guys grind the file into the cutter like when you sharpen a pocket knife. Kinda like you're trying to slice off a sliver of the sharpening stone. I file the other way. Someone told me that you raise a bur of chrome that way and that's your cutters edge.

Griffbm3 what's that one you're talking about? I can't find it in the Baileys catalog. It files the rakers and cutters at the same time?
 
Thanks for all the info.

Kirby 33,
I am getting more dust than shavings from my saw.

Poulson 01,
I am filling the rakers down as I file the teeth back - I have the file that Husky makes that does this in one step.
 
WOW,every few sharpenings a new file?What brand are you using?

I just chucked a file today i'd been using every day for 3 weeks

They ARE very good files but can't believe they are that much better


Well, few meaning more than 10 for sure, never really counted, definitely less than 3 weeks of full-time cutting. I don't do it for a living, the cost of a dozen files or so a year really doesn't bother me. I toss them when they seem to get dull, not after a set number of filings. I use Pferd files, no guide. I card them after I'm done sharpening to clean out the filings.
 
gullet

I have filed the gullets out on a chain of RSC. That chain was a cutter!LOL The reason for filing the gullet out is, so that the chain will carry and remove more chips faster=faster cutting.:greenchainsaw: :cheers: :chainsaw:
 
I only hand file, usually after every tank or two. Three strokes and she's razor sharp. I got Stihl's sharpening kit with the gauge for the rakers, if they get so they are sticking above the groove I take them down with the flat file. Hand filing isn't rocket science once you get it figured out. After learning how I wouldn't sharpen any other way. Oh yeah.. I use Stihl files, both round and flat. Good luck!!!!!
 
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I never field sharpen, as I typically use at least three different sized saws on any gig. I bring a bag of fresh square ground chains,at least three for each size of bar I will be running for the day. That way I can focus on the cutting.

I have a Pro Sharp which did have an intial cost, but I'll point out that I get a lot of sharpenings out of a grinding wheel (blue ceramic) and actually I save a bundle over when I use to use files.
 
I'm with you there, B Turner. Fresh chains in the bag. Throw on a new one when the old gets dull and keep cutting. File the chains in the comfort of my garage. At least its not 10F in there with wind.

I am trying to learn to hand file well. Have been getting a buddy at work to do them on a grinder. So a couple of quick questions:

1. Does it matter if you drag the file back in the cutter? Possibly a bad habit I've picked up at work.
2. File inside out or outside in? I've been doing it inside out and getting ok results.
3. My Oregon wood handles that came with the filing guides both cracked rather quickly. What do you all use? I've seen some good looking plastic type handles in the Bailey's catalog.

Matt
 
I just use a plain file with no handle, however wearing a glove is a must. The scars on my hand will attest to that. I go from the inside out on the cutter. If you look that the cutter you can see if you are getting it all filed as it will have kind of a dull shine and won't be smooth looking. One problem I had when I started filing a few years ago was not keeping the top of the cutter filed back and it would start to bend down a bit and cut like crap. If you are using 3/8 chain I would recomend using a 7/32 file until it starts cutting into the tie strap then finish the chain off with a 13/64. I see you guys' point about taking a bunch of sharp chains with you. For me if I had to change chains on my saw three times a day I would flip, but that's just me. Filing after every tank or two doesn't take long, probably as long as changing chains. Hope this helped!!
 
With the new saw running RSC out of the box, I didn't change my chain for about 5 hours of cutting. Still throwing good chips in dead white elm at the end. That was 2 outings. I only get time to cut on the weekends and only for a couple of hours of actual cutting. Even with the resharps, I have yet to have to change one in the field. Last weekend I ripped a load of 24" oak in quarters with one chain and it still has life left in it.

I don't even want to comment on my Craftsman that runs an 16" bar and VG chain. Need several chains just to cut a load of wood.
 
filing

I'm with you there, B Turner. Fresh chains in the bag. Throw on a new one when the old gets dull and keep cutting. File the chains in the comfort of my garage. At least its not 10F in there with wind.

I am trying to learn to hand file well. Have been getting a buddy at work to do them on a grinder. So a couple of quick questions:

1. Does it matter if you drag the file back in the cutter? Possibly a bad habit I've picked up at work.
2. File inside out or outside in? I've been doing it inside out and getting ok results.
3. My Oregon wood handles that came with the filing guides both cracked rather quickly. What do you all use? I've seen some good looking plastic type handles in the Bailey's catalog.

Matt

If you drag the file hard backward into the cutter it will dull the file QUICK! Just ease up on the back stroke until you have enough space to lift the file slightly on backstroke. I file inside out on round chisel, and outside in on square filed chisel. I don't file square chisel much, but I can do it, but it is a lot harder than round chisel. I use Timber Savage plastic file handles, they hold up to heavy use and still are good.:greenchainsaw: :cheers: :chainsaw:
 
I guess that would make a difference if you only had weekends to cut. I can pretty much go out to the woods everyday between bus routes if I wanted to. Stick with what works for you!!! Best of luck
 
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