Chain sharpening jig for the shop

[glennschumann]

I posted something similar to this a while back, but I've made some improvements, and included a drawing showing dimensions and stuff if you want to build one yourself. If you are newer to the site, or aren't ready to invest in a grinder, this may be for you. It uses the typical file guide, your bench vise, and it provides a stable holder and angle guide. I've found this to make sharpening quite easy and accurate, and once it is easy, you are inclined to do it often. Just clamp the chain in the jig in your vise, and file the cutters with the edge of the file holder lined up with the guide lines on the top of the jig. Once you are done with one side of the chain, turn it around, and sharpen the cutters on the other side.

Just a few notes:

Make sure the thin strip in the middle has parallel sides, or the gap at the top will be too wide (or narrow). Also make sure the thin strip is a bit shorter than the jig... this leaves room for the drive links to slide by.

Screw the pieces together... don't glue them. The screws allow enough flexibility for the jig to work. Glue may crack.

I can sharpen a loop for a 42" bar with this one without it dragging on the shop floor. If you have longer milling loops, you can drape the chain over something else down the length of the work bench.

A soup (or beer) can makes a good guide for the curved part of the jig.

My jig has marks for two sequential cutters on one side of the chain. They are spaced 3" apart, and this is perfect for 3/8" chain. I've included the proper distances apart for other pitches of chain in the sketch.

Don't try to make one 3 feet long thinking that you can clamp half the chain... once you get a few inches away from the vise jaws, the wood flexes and doesn't hold the drive links well. Once you get into a rhythm, it goes pretty quickly.

I've included guides for 10 and 30 degree marks in the sketch attachment. Cut it out, fold it over, and use that to make the marks on the top of the jig.

You may have to adjust the position of the ledges on the sides to work with your vise... they should be low enough to let the screw of the vise fit under the jig.

I put the jig together, then cut the curves, and planed the top so both boards are level so the chain sits level. I glued the ledges on the sides last.

Feel free to attach other useful links to sharpening to this thread, so we can refer new folks here without just telling them to "search".

If you make and sell these for a profit, make it a good run, and send me an 026 out of the proceeds.

 

[67 Mustang]

Thanks Glenn! Looks good. It'll be fun making and checking this out.

Steve

 

[heimannm]

Thanks Glenn

I like what you've done and the indicator lines are a good idea. Might work even better to lightly score the wood with a thin saw blade, be more permanent that way.

I still use an old "saw vise" for sharpening chains. I can file three cutters in one bite on chains from .375 through 1/2" pitch.

Mark

 

[BobL]

Here's mine.
It's also a hand saw sharpening vice.
I like it because I can file standing up which is how my dad taught me, although these days I feel comfortable sharpening chains on a bar and sitting down. I have a near new 20" bar that seems to hold the chain fairly straight and steady and I just stick this in the Wood Working vice.

I use a lot of plumbing fittings in my jigs because I have boxes full of the stuff. The tap handles act as counter clamps to add extra pressure to the saw/chain.

I also made an indexing jig that rides on the top to cut hand saw teeth .

 

[volks-man]

bobl,
nice work. what kind of wood is that?

 

[Ax-man]

Pretty slick vise you have there Mark. I like it. If I was to make a jig for off saw filing it would be very similar to that one.

The other jigs look real good also but I personally am not into wood working and don't have the tools to make anything out of a piece of wood that would be funtional for my needs.

 

[BobL]

bobl,
nice work. what kind of wood is that?

Thanls VM.

The vice jaws are jarrah, the rest is Tasmanian blue gum. The Jarrah tree is a magnificent hard wood that grows up to 7 ft in diameter and 130 ft tall. It only grows in a small area of the southwest corner of Western Australia.
Here's a pic of me milling up a small one.

 

[volks-man]

bobl
never heard of either of those trees!
we don't have neat trees like that in the states.

thats a small one?
i like that the sawdust is rusty red.

 

[BobL]

bobl
never heard of either of those trees!
we don't have neat trees like that in the states.

thats a small one?
i like that the sawdust is rusty red.

I agree the sawdust is freakin awesome! My dad used to fall these trees for a living and he would come home covered in this stuff.

Check this link out for the grain on that tree I was cutting, normally its straight grain but every now and then it comes with a zebra fiddle that we call "curly". A curly log will go for thousands as they are quite rare and this stuff is great for furniture or even musical instruments. Here is a 1/2" shoulder plane I made from a piece that cost me $10.

 

[glennschumann]

Mark, yes, nice application of the old saw vise... not too many of those around anymore. Probably gives a good working height for you too.

Bob, I could never out do your magical jigs! Nice plane! Jarrah has been promoted here in the states as a "sustainable" material for things like outdoor decks and the like because of its natural rot resistance. Frankly, I think it is too nice looking to be walked all over. I'm also not fond of shipping large quantities of materials across the world, and then calling it environmentally friendly.

What is the wood you used for the shoe of the plane (beautiful by the way)? Jarrah is pretty hard in itself, did you add the shoe to be a bit smoother?

Nice work, again.

Today I picked up a free black walnut log (14" diam, 12' long)... time to get the mill out again...

 

[BobL]

Jarrah has been promoted here in the states as a "sustainable" material for things like outdoor decks and the like because of its natural rot resistance. Frankly, I think it is too nice looking to be walked all over. I'm also not fond of shipping large quantities of materials across the world, and then calling it environmentally friendly.

I agree

What is the wood you used for the shoe of the plane (beautiful by the way)? Jarrah is pretty hard in itself, did you add the shoe to be a bit smoother?

The sole is solid brass!

Today I picked up a free black walnut log (14" diam, 12' long)... time to get the mill out again...

OK - free walnut - now that's something we don;t see here.

 

[WVwoodsman]

Awesome exotic wood, thanks for sharing the pics! I think a gun stock would look great made from that wood.