glennschumann
ArboristSite Operative
I posted something similar to this a while back, but I've made some improvements, and included a drawing showing dimensions and stuff if you want to build one yourself. If you are newer to the site, or aren't ready to invest in a grinder, this may be for you. It uses the typical file guide, your bench vise, and it provides a stable holder and angle guide. I've found this to make sharpening quite easy and accurate, and once it is easy, you are inclined to do it often. Just clamp the chain in the jig in your vise, and file the cutters with the edge of the file holder lined up with the guide lines on the top of the jig. Once you are done with one side of the chain, turn it around, and sharpen the cutters on the other side.
Just a few notes:
Make sure the thin strip in the middle has parallel sides, or the gap at the top will be too wide (or narrow). Also make sure the thin strip is a bit shorter than the jig... this leaves room for the drive links to slide by.
Screw the pieces together... don't glue them. The screws allow enough flexibility for the jig to work. Glue may crack.
I can sharpen a loop for a 42" bar with this one without it dragging on the shop floor. If you have longer milling loops, you can drape the chain over something else down the length of the work bench.
A soup (or beer) can makes a good guide for the curved part of the jig.
My jig has marks for two sequential cutters on one side of the chain. They are spaced 3" apart, and this is perfect for 3/8" chain. I've included the proper distances apart for other pitches of chain in the sketch.
Don't try to make one 3 feet long thinking that you can clamp half the chain... once you get a few inches away from the vise jaws, the wood flexes and doesn't hold the drive links well. Once you get into a rhythm, it goes pretty quickly.
I've included guides for 10 and 30 degree marks in the sketch attachment. Cut it out, fold it over, and use that to make the marks on the top of the jig.
You may have to adjust the position of the ledges on the sides to work with your vise... they should be low enough to let the screw of the vise fit under the jig.
I put the jig together, then cut the curves, and planed the top so both boards are level so the chain sits level. I glued the ledges on the sides last.
Feel free to attach other useful links to sharpening to this thread, so we can refer new folks here without just telling them to "search".
If you make and sell these for a profit, make it a good run, and send me an 026 out of the proceeds.![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Just a few notes:
Make sure the thin strip in the middle has parallel sides, or the gap at the top will be too wide (or narrow). Also make sure the thin strip is a bit shorter than the jig... this leaves room for the drive links to slide by.
Screw the pieces together... don't glue them. The screws allow enough flexibility for the jig to work. Glue may crack.
I can sharpen a loop for a 42" bar with this one without it dragging on the shop floor. If you have longer milling loops, you can drape the chain over something else down the length of the work bench.
A soup (or beer) can makes a good guide for the curved part of the jig.
My jig has marks for two sequential cutters on one side of the chain. They are spaced 3" apart, and this is perfect for 3/8" chain. I've included the proper distances apart for other pitches of chain in the sketch.
Don't try to make one 3 feet long thinking that you can clamp half the chain... once you get a few inches away from the vise jaws, the wood flexes and doesn't hold the drive links well. Once you get into a rhythm, it goes pretty quickly.
I've included guides for 10 and 30 degree marks in the sketch attachment. Cut it out, fold it over, and use that to make the marks on the top of the jig.
You may have to adjust the position of the ledges on the sides to work with your vise... they should be low enough to let the screw of the vise fit under the jig.
I put the jig together, then cut the curves, and planed the top so both boards are level so the chain sits level. I glued the ledges on the sides last.
Feel free to attach other useful links to sharpening to this thread, so we can refer new folks here without just telling them to "search".
If you make and sell these for a profit, make it a good run, and send me an 026 out of the proceeds.