Chain sharpening pro tips.

[SamT1]

Guys I’ve been sharpening my chains for near 20 years on a stihl sharpener. I was never taught to run it though. Now and then I get a dud that isn’t a good cutter or one that dulls fast.

I get 3/4 cord of hard dry and dirty mesquite on a good chain sharpening. Maybe a whole cord on a new one. But now and then I only get 1/4. I try to keep my depth gauges cut down, but can’t find my tool to check them so I just wing it. I like them cutting deep since I run big saws with little bars. But the stretch is pretty dang bad. A chain starts life at 66 links for me and probably dies with 63.

I sharpen on 25* pretty much no matter what. I’ve tried 20 and like it too.

What’s some pro tips? Rapid cut is #1 for me, life of sharpen is #2, life of the whole chain is no concern, kick back is no problem.

Bar life tips welcome too! I eat them up. We pull lots of dirt and the bar oils always smoking in big dry mesquites. I’ve seen those tools for surfacing the rails, but my issues always how wide they get. I’ve thought about trying some wider chains, but the armor tips don’t wear out so I don’t think they will fit.

 

[hedge hog]

RS or RM chain ?


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[HarleyT]

Pics after you sharpen 1?

 

[SamT1]

I run a mix of stuff. Mostly chisel chains.
Oregon 72 chisel mostly
Some Carlton A1 semi chisel
I just found a zip lock with several gently used stihl RS chains I sharpened up to try.

A friend with a small shop ordered me a 25’ roll of silver streak chisel chain to try. It is cheap cheap.

 

[hedge hog]

I have better luck in hedge with RM
Rakers set around 32-35 thousands
And no chain holds up like Stihl


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[JP56]

I am not a chain saw aficionado like most here seem to be, just a home owner who has purchased a few different saw of the past 30 years for use around my 1 acre property. I finally broke down in 2012 and purchased a STIHL MS290 at a power equip shop nearby, and was amazed at the difference over the crap they sold at the box stores. My home is surrounded by oaks and maples, and since I got this saw, I have removed 15 of them from around the house. Just wondering if anyone here has ever purchased and used the adjustable chain saw sharpener that they sell at Harbor Freight. I have and I find it does a decent job and short work of sharpening the chains, once you make some fine adjustments to the somewhat cheap construction of it. Once I tweaked it, I marked my degree settings w perm marker for my STIHL chains and just readjust it if I do a chain for someone else with a different make. Best 20$ I ever spent so far!

 

[Marley5]

I really like Stihl chains and also use a lot of Oregon chisel.

What really helps me get my chains perfectly sharp and teeth shaped with proper gullet is use a bright light with 300 strength reader glasses.

Been using a Granberg shortly after Nixon was in office. Lol

 

[hedge hog]

Yes plenty of bright lights and readers!


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[Marley5]

Here's the shape of a sharp tooth and will hold it's edge unless you hit a rock......Oregon chisel 325.

 

[JP56]

Yes plenty of bright lights and readers!


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This is one serious sharpening set up !

 

[hedge hog]

I like a little more hook so when I file in the field my file only contacts the top third of the cutter it dresses up a lot faster


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[hedge hog]

This is one serious sharpening set up !

I have 20 Rick of hedge left to sell and not cutting more
40 Rick a year for the last 9 years I’m only going to hobby cut and help other
So I went all in on sharpening



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[jchipps]

1. Semi-Chisel is gonna hold it’s sharpness a little better in the dirty conditions you describe.
2. Also, although you’re running a big saw with a short bar, it’s not doing your chains any favor by going ‘excessively’ agressive on your rakers.
That’s putting a lot of undue stress on your chain, and probably the biggest reason for the excessive stretching.
3. Best tip I could give anyone is: learn to properly hand file your chains, so you can maintain them in the field.
The sharpening machines are nice when you have a badly rocked chain and need to grind all the teeth back a good amount to remove the damage. Saves a lot of filing.
However, there’s nothing more advantageous than being able to hunker down and give your chain a good quick hand dressing in the field at the first sign of it’s beginning to dull, rather than continuing to cut with it dull, simply because the machine isn’t out there with you, or you simply don’t feel like shutting down and taking the time to switch chains etc.

 

[president]

Yes plenty of bright lights and readers!


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I got one with 6 cbn wheels 3 38 & 3 325 ,brand new 550,loonies,
they are the crem da la crem !

 

[Stihl 041S]

I got one with 6 cbn wheels 3 38 & 3 325 ,brand new 550,loonies,
they are the crem da la crem !

Why so many CBN wheels?
I mean I got extras too......just wondering how you ended up with so many?

 

[hedge hog]

I got one with 6 cbn wheels 3 38 & 3 325 ,brand new 550,loonies,
they are the crem da la crem !

What brand of wheels?
I use diamond wheel brand
A 1/4 to .325. 3/8 to .404 and they are 120$ apiece I think
The Stihl diamond wheel was a gift from my dealer !!!!!
I don’t think I would of bought one but have used it several times


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[Philbert]

. . . Just wondering if anyone here has ever purchased and used the adjustable chain saw sharpener that they sell at Harbor Freight.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/

1. Semi-Chisel is gonna hold it’s sharpness a little better in the dirty conditions you describe.
2. Also, although you’re running a big saw with a short bar, it’s not doing your chains any favor by going ‘excessively’ agressive on your rakers.
That’s putting a lot of undue stress on your chain, and probably the biggest reason for the excessive stretching.

Agree up to this point. Lots of ways to sharpen. Everyone has to find something that works for them.

I got one with 6 cbn wheels . . .

still like my AO wheels better, aside from the dust.

To the OP: if you are not precise and consistent in your sharpening, you can never be sure of your results. I inspect each cutter when I grind, to be sure that I got both edges, consistent depth, etc. Easier to be consistent with a grinder IMO. Same thing with depth gauges.

Once you are consistent, then you can experiment and see what works for you, your saws, your cutting, etc.

Start with a few identical chains. Grind one at 30*, one at 25*, one at 20* (!) then swap them out and try them in the same wood on the same day. Then 'play' with the grinder head tilt angle, depth of gullet, etc.

One of the advantages of grinding your own chains, is that you can experiment with these angles. See what you like. 23.5* might be the magic number for you.

Philbert

 

[HarleyT]

I have bought I don't know how many 10s of thousands of dollars of stuff from My Stihl dealer, and can't even get a free hat out of him!!

 

[hedge hog]

I have bought I don't know how many 10s of thousands of dollars of stuff from My Stihl dealer, and can't even get a free hat out of him!!

I’m around 6 thousand
But I’m nice to him!


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[president]

What brand of wheels?
I use diamond wheel brand
A 1/4 to .325. 3/8 to .404 and they are 120$ apiece I think
The Stihl diamond wheel was a gift from my dealer !!!!!
I don’t think I would of bought one but have used it several times


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the wheels say ,LM>sharpening,10b40-E 47571
on the 5/32 wheel.He must have had them custom ordered
He was the Vancouver parks supervisor until 2004
they are on heavy steel stock