Chain sharpening

[7sleeper]

See my post here

I have used one of the full plastic ones for ~30$ sofar(I bought it on sale for 15$). I have the grinder mounted on a piece of wood like wood doc and just hold it tight in steel vice mounted on my workbench. I left the piece longer on one side so that I can hang the loops on it. It has performed very good. But then again it isn't very fast(85W). I mainly use it for correcting the cutters after enemy contact. Usually I just use the hand file and use the husqvarna file guide. It is much quicker for me then setting up the grinder. I also use it for the chains of friends. They usually have chains in pretty bad shape.
I bought now the succesor for ~30$. It has a metal base and a few improvements. The old one I left it at my FIL place in case I have to do some filling there.
View attachment 247247

The main complaint I have read about the plastic one is that it flexes after pressure is applied. For me that has been an advantage! I don't have to grind all the cutters down to exact the same length. I some times have cutters that needed a little more file work from time to time. So these are already shorter than the others. In this situation I can "flex" the grinder after the downward arc towards the cutter surface and clean it out with the side of the grinding wheel! Very quick and "chain saving" method in my eyes. I know not perfect but still the result is very sharp.

7

So for me it is like 90% hand filing and 10% grinder(for friends it is the other way around :hmm3grin2orange. The cutters are much sharper!

7

 

[missouriboy]

I File mine by hand but not the best at it. My dad can file by hand and can get the chain razor sharp. I can get them ok but not that good. I have only been doing it for a couple years he has been going it for like 30 years he is a pro at it. I just cant see how a grinder can get them sharper then by doing it by hand so i cant see the reason in spending the money on a grinder. But i could be wrong.

 

[7sleeper]

After noodling through this you will get a grinder because filing out the nicks just ain't funny.:bang:

View attachment 247270

If unclear, yes that is a stone in the fork of a walnut tree. Don't ask me how it got there. I noticed right away something was wrong but told my son (who is just a beginner) just keep on going. No turning back then. A lot of dust and hardly chips after that. Luckily there was only a short way to go after that.

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[Currently]

After noodling through this you will get a grinder because filing out the nicks just ain't funny.:bang:

View attachment 247270

If unclear, yes that is a stone in the fork of a walnut tree. Don't ask me how it got there. I noticed right away something was wrong but told my son (who is just a beginner) just keep on going. No turning back then. A lot of dust and hardly chips after that. Luckily there was only a short way to go after that.

7

+1



The correct tool for the job ...

I can shovel the driveway ... use a snowblower ... use a plow ...

How big is the driveway?

It is why I got four different methods of sharpening.

 

[stihl waters]

I can't imagine that after sawing through that stone you would have anything left worth filing !!

 

[7sleeper]

I can't imagine that after sawing through that stone you would have anything left worth filing !!

There was a lot left for filing. It was a brand new stihl chain (didn't want to give my young one a "old crappy" chain when spending some quality time!). Only needed like 1/3 ground off to be as good as new! Maybe it wasn't such a good idea to give him the new chain but then again he cut where I told him to. :hmm3grin2orange:

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[firmwood]

Stones are dirt cheap I bought 20 for $30 online. Naturally I bought more of the more common size chains i have.. Fast, and still gives that free style feeling for those that love to put serious hook/point for that ultra edge (that gets dull quicker.... :/ )

Dremel all the way, light weight and fast, and fits the cordless for that touchup while on the job. Chain stays on the rig, I make a sloppy start point with red chaulk.

The dremels that spin 35000, takes no time to buff and clean teeth that took a good whackin'. Careful not to get too wild and overheat the tooth edge. Advantage of a hand file.

Normal dullness from dirt/normal wear, just a few seconds and back to sharp. I always check with my fingers, if the edge tears skin easily, I call it good.

 

[Whitespider]

Thirty years ago I used to haul my dull chains to a saw shop. Like most people that do that, I used them until they flat wouldn’t cut anymore. The biggest problem with taking them to the shop is remembering to do that… occasionally I’d go to use the saw and, “Crap! I don’t have any sharp chains!” I hate being dependent on someone else for anything anyway.

I started hand filing and never looked back. For a while I’d still take one to the shop if I buggered it up on something non-wood, now I don’t even do that… I just sit down with a box-o-beer and “fix” ‘em. I’ve never had one come off a grinder that would cut as well, and as long, as a filed chain… and besides, a grinder tends to screw up the “fit” of the file-to-cutter for a couple of sharpening. I’ve tried the “Dremel” rotary tool type, and positively hated what it did to the chain. Just my opinion, and maybe I wasn’t doing something correctly, but that ain’t the way to sharpen saw chain… it’s a good way to ruin saw chain.

In the early days of hand filing I tried all different sorts of guides and jigs, and they’re all lying in a shop drawer, unused for many years now. Most are just too darn slow to use, or just worthless gimmicks. About a year ago, after reading about them here, I picked up a Husqvarna roller guide (figured I’d tried all the others, might as well give it a shot). Surprisingly, I’m still using it… with just a bit familiarity it’s just as fast as free-hand filing… and I think, or believe, I get a more consistent “hook” on the edge using it.

From what I’ve experienced over the years… The sharpest, longest lasting edge comes with a simple hand file.

 

[stihl023/5]

sharpen

I file, finally broke down and bought p ferd chain sharps these files setup do everything at once

 

[devonhubb]

Simington square grinder for me.

Once you try it, you'll never go back.

 

[Thomas Venditto]

Simington square grinder for me.

Once you try it, you'll never go back.

At $1000.00 you CAN'T AFFORD to "go" anywhere LOL
TomJV

 

[Amp4027]

If I were to do it again, I'd buy a Granberg all-metal fileguide for ~$35, and not the plastic Oregon one from Lowes clearance for ~$17.

You just cannot get that razors edge with a grinder - or at least for me. But if you like Semi-chisel chains, then a grinder is prolly the way to go.

 

[user 122190]

Yup! Grinder is faster, easier, and better. I get factory new sharp in about 5 minutes, I get to flip the bar, and clean the chain in the process.

I guess I'm the oddball. I prefer the grinder. Keeps everything straight.

Hand file in the field.

 

[46 Poulan]

Started hand filing with guide attached to file for correct angle. Now just like to free hand file no guide. The more you do the better you get..When you go to cut wood and the chips are flying off it makes it worth it. Do not let your chains get dull--I will touch up before that happens and keep plenty of good quality files on hand and depth guage for rakers...felt tip marker to mark tooth you start with. Always file inside to outside 1 direction. Lot of good videos out there. I use to count strokes now I file and look at tooth--file til it looks good.

 

[grack]

I remember this thread handfiler here but i am a fan of the husky roller guides for cleaning up other peoples filing.

 

[jakethesnake]

I grind other peoples filing Depends on my mood really mostly free hand All round

 

[Toy4xchris]

my grandfather taught me many years ago how to sharpen just about every outdoor tool with a file, chainsaw, mower blades, shovels, etc... never used a guide or grinder. I did buy myself a file and guide kit for Christmas this year curious on how that will work out for me.

 

[heyduke]

in my short sweet life i have encountered less than five properly sharpened, hand filed chains. yes. i know almost every american male thinks he can do it but it just isn't true. i'm convinced that most hombres who think they can hand file a round ground chain have simply forgotten what a sharp chain is like. there's a reason why there are so few photographs of hand file chains posted. yes, you can screw up a chain with a grinder if you don't have the patience and skill that is needed but once you master the grinder you'll never look back. if you're making money to pay the rent, insurance, fuel and payroll, you might be sharpening 20 chains a week. filing just isn't an option. if you're a hobbyist or a guy who thinks a cord of wood is four chords, go ahead and scratch away with a file and make saw dust instead of chips. and by the way, those who are complaining about the cost of a grinder, files cost money too. if you're filing regularly, you're buying them by the dozen. just in case... i carry a couple of new files in my tool kit... along with two or three extra chains.

 

[jakethesnake]

I feel like if you can properly grind a chain you should be able to properly file a chain If you can see and are steady

 

[user 122190]

once you master the grinder you'll never look back.

I agree. I tried for 2 years to file by hand, and I was getting nowhere very slowly. Sometimes I would get a nice sharp chain, but at the expense of varying length cutters. When I started cutting curves in my log bucking, I knew that I was never going to be competent in hand filing. The grinder for around a $100 is a bargain. The learning curve is not difficult, and once there, it is a wonder that I didn't go this route from the start. My chains are factory sharp after a few minutes. And if I rock a chain, a few more then a few minutes.