Chains...

[keith c raymond]

What's a good chain to go to for more agressive cutting but is up against the limit of being kickback prone? I am a experienced saw operator,no saw god to be sure but experienced enough to handle something with more "bite"Iwill be using this kind of chain on myPS7900 and my Echo 8000.The Dolmar has a 20" bar and the Echo has a 27" bar.I understand Sthil has quite a variety of chains to choose from,but I am open for anything that fits the bill.

 

[Lawn Masters]

Why not jsut get some full chisel, and an 8 tooth rim sprocket if you're looking for speed, this should do it on a 7900.

 

[Crofter]

I am assuming you mean faster cutting. Square ground or filed fits that bill, but it is not grabbier or more kickback prone than round ground chisel. 15 to 20 percent faster. Dropping the rakers on round chisel will make it grabby and increase kickback liklihood, but it is hard on the saw and gives more vibration to the user.

 

[rmihalek]

I think the rakers on Joker's Husky EHP359 at the recent Gathering were at 0.018" and the saw cut like the proverbial hot knife through butter, both in speed and smoothness.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I would also advise against taking the rakers down that far.

 

[Newfie]

Try some oregon 72LP. It's a pro style chain with larger rakers to help reduce kickback. Oregon calls them ramped depth gauges for what its worth.

 

[Lobo]

I think the rakers on Joker's Husky EHP359 at the recent Gathering were at 0.018" and the saw cut like the proverbial hot knife through butter, both in speed and smoothness.

A man after my own heart .018 rakers.

Let her rip!

 

[badcars2]

about rakers

a few months ago i went with the less is more thing, my outlook on life also......anyhooo i digress. i files my rakers way down as an experiment, when you start a cut the saw tends to, how sould i saw, jump up at your head!!!!!!! back to the drawing board .025 seems to work just fine for my firewood needs, i am not that greedy and really not in that big of a hurry.
i am looking forward to trying the 041 with new bar and full chisel, like to watch that saw eat.
again, just a thought.

 

[clearance]

I feel this idea about low kickback chain is bogus because it makes people worry less because their chain is "safer". I alway run full chisel, skip or fullhouse. What I never do is put myself in a position where a kickback could cut me. I think this is what is really important, never put yourself in that position, I see weekend warriors do it constantly.Never down look at the chain, stand to one side, learn to buck left handed, etc..

 

[badcars2]

excellent

i am not near as expeienced as some here but that is an excellent point. being around alot of equiptment that is very unforgiving has taught me. think, what is the worst thing that can happen. and also have i given myself an out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[belgian]

I would also advise against taking the rakers down that far.

The pro's here should not forget that many (including myself)chainsaw users are occasional firewood cutters. I would advise only to use standard manufactered chains to everyone, and reserve playing with rakers to the guys who operate chainsaws for a dayly living or make use of them at "gathering" events. Safety first.

 

[Newfie]

Not to be picky man but it is my understanding that "full house" chain has twice the cutter teeth as standard chain. At least that's the way the racers describe it.

Dan

I beleive Dan is correct. "Standard" chain is full comp or compliment. Full house is a different beast as he describes.

 

[clearance]

We ue only the terms full house (standard to you) and skip.

 

[Crofter]

Clearance, that could be the terms you use, but Treeco and Newfie gave you the proper ones.

Full house, full complement or full comp (standard), then there is semi skip and skip. Full house is pretty specialised if existing at all in manufactured form.

 

[Molecule]

I would think about retreating from the Oregon Vanguard ... which they advertise as a safety chain.

Two observations I have made with it ... (1) On the two chains I've tried, Oregon apparently has a quality control problem -- they have a problem setting rakers to a consistent height on that chain. The rakers are a sort of backward facing cutter that hasn't been sharpened. At first sharpening, after equalizing lengths of cutters to ±.01, I found that some rakers will need a good bit more filing to even up with the others. (Other chains are also not perfect, or maybe I just don't notice it because the upright rakers are narrower.) (2) When cutting laterally after a plunge cut (pull direction, a tendency to walk out; push side, a rough ride indeed), when the raker is coming around the tip sprocket, the "noses" or fronts of the backward facing cutters (e.g. the "rakers") will try to grab a slice and will try to act like a dull cutter. Again, there is inconsistent manufacturing here ... as the edges of some rakes "turn up" and might will begin a cut as a cutter would, and the noses of other rakers will be straight. If you are using this chain for the first time, I would suggest checking the raker heights, and filing down the noses of the rakers so that the leading edges don't try to act as a cutter when turning around the bar nose.

In place of Vanguard, semi-chisels on a bumper driver chasis ain't never done me wrong.

 

[Mange]

Here is a thread for you to read, see you in a few days!!!!!!

I miss Gypos clips!

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=12352&page=1&pp=15