Changing 385XP PTO

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Simonizer

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crankshaft bearing without separating the crankcases. 3 hr job turns into a 20 minute job. Any technicians out there interested in the procedure and tool? This bearing is a common problem here in BC, long bars, heavy use.
 
Simonizer said:
crankshaft bearing without separating the crankcases. 3 hr job turns into a 20 minute job. Any technicians out there interested in the procedure and tool? This bearing is a common problem here in BC, long bars, heavy use.

Is he always this difficult?
Andy
 
well i have a trick for putting new bearings in a stihl without seperating the case :) if your nice i will share with you Simon.
 
026. 036, 044.. you name it i can get those bearings out without splitting that baby :)
 
i admit, you can never put the saw back together again.. i never claimed this method would make the saw run again..

stanleytool.jpg
 
sawinredneck said:
And it is very much apreciated:clap:
I am just having some fun with you're tactics:)
Andy
If you can wait until tomorrow I will give you the part number for the puller. It is about $100 CAD.
 
Simonizer said:
If you can wait until tomorrow I will give you the part number for the puller. It is about $100 CAD.

I already have one... I assume it's the type that you remove part of the cage, move the balls to one side and insert the puller, expand it and pull it out?
 
Lakeside53 said:
I already have one... I assume it's the type that you remove part of the cage, move the balls to one side and insert the puller, expand it and pull it out?
No, only the the seal between the inner and outer race is removed, the retainer stays intact.
 
Simonizer said:
No, only the the seal between the inner and outer race is removed, the retainer stays intact.




Are we talking apple or oranges? Huh? what seal? The bearings I see have an outer race, ball retainer, balls, inner race...

Getting out is "relatively" easy. Pushing in a new bearing onto the crank and into the case without heat is a ?????, and getting it set to the right depth (on a stihl clutch side, anyhow) is next to impossible... I still prefer to split the cases...
 
Lakeside53 said:
Are we talking apple or oranges? Huh? what seal? The bearings I see have an outer race, ball retainer, balls, inner race...

Getting out is "relatively" easy. Pushing in a new bearing onto the crank and into the case without heat is a ?????, and getting it set to the right depth (on a stihl clutch side, anyhow) is next to impossible... I still prefer to split the cases...
This thread is very specific. I am talking about the PTO side bearing on a Husqvarna 385XP. This is a common problem with the 385. It manifests itself in 3 different failures due to several factors. Incorrect tolerances from the factory on some saws to name one.
 

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