Cheaper cylinder/piston for a ps/dcs 540

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jacrawley

ArboristSite Member
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Does anyone know of an aftermarket cylinder piston combo for the dcs 540? The OEM one runs $185 and up and just isn't worth it to me. I would be into putting pretty much anything on here even if it was a downgrade to a smaller size.

thanks
 
A few years ago I did a very stupid thing and inserted my scrench through the plug hole down through the exhaust port in order to remove the clutch. As you can see serious damage was the result. The ring was pinched in the damaged piston grove and lost compression. After looking at the price of a new piston and cylinder I decided to call it quits. The other day I finally took this saw apart and wondered if maybe I could replace the ring and smooth the damage to the cylinder and piston with some Emory cloth. The cylinder doesn't feel damaged above the exhaust port dent and the piston is okay except for the pinched ring grove which I also thought maybe I could open with a light sanding. My fear is this would be waste of money. Any opinions would be appreciated tmp_26149-20160505_191825_LLS-1442222474.jpg
 

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I think I would try to smooth out the ding with a file, clean the ring groove and make sure it is not pinched, new ring and run it. What's to lose?
+1

nothing to lose in trying it and looking at the minimal damage i think with careful file/sanding work it could be a reliable runner again.
 
I would do just like a few have mentioned by a back yard informed person would do. Fix the damage ring land. File the piston straight on the top and run it. Even with the old ring. I have done it on my own stuff with a pretty decent success rate.
 
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Well sir I have been in your shoes literally.... What did I do..... Well I said hell with it, I didn't have anything to loose as this was my first rebuild..... The rings, piston, and cylinder were in great shape..... So I sanded/filed out the bad spots, cleaned them off really good and put her back together..... The results were great, saw runs great... This saw is a non-moronic ms362.... I absolutely love the saw, and she was my first real rebuild.... Hope this helps, and truthfully from what I have learned, you really don't have nothin to loose..... I would clean them both up, buy new rings, rinse 3x with gas, oils everything down, put back together and go cut some wood....

I will be anxious to see what you end up deciding to do, and how it works out, good luck!!!!!!
 
Does anyone know of an aftermarket cylinder piston combo for the dcs 540? The OEM one runs $185 and up and just isn't worth it to me. I would be into putting pretty much anything on here even if it was a downgrade to a smaller size.

thanks

Hey what did you end up doing, I was anxious to see what you decided to do with it.....
 
Hell ya... It really should work, just make sure there are no burrs for the rings to catch on.... If you remember shoot me a PM or better yet post the final results here!!!!
Good luck Kyle!!!
 
Well it took 5 weeks for my shop to get the parts so I just now got it back together. I went ahead and rebuilt the carb since it sat with fuel in it for many years. It starts up and runs for few seconds and then stalls. Typically I will need to choke it for it to start a second time but not every time. I have checked and the tank vent is working. I have moved the low screw in and out to no effect. I plan on doing a crankcase pressure test but I really hope it isn't that. I think I will take the carb a part and give it a second cleaning. Any ideas of other things it could be?

thanks
 
Double check and make sure there is no air gap, or no small hole blocked were the carberator meets the rubber baffle..... I about pulled all my hair out because of a little hole blocked on a ms180 baffle.... It would run but only for a second or two....
 
I did a vacuum test on the case and it took about 45 seconds to drop from 10 in hg to 0. Should it hold longer than that?
 
I submerged the saw up to the top of the crankcase and saw no bubbles. Going over the top of the carb seemed to scary. So it would seem the leak is not there. I bet it is around my crappy pieces of bike tube sealing the muffler and intake. Does this seem reasonable?
 
You can get this from your local Lowe's: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Plumb-Pak-6-in-Rubber-Washer/1082957

There is another one that is 1/16th thick, the one I linked to is 1/8th. Get some windex and spray anywhere you think there might be a leak. Windex will bubble. Helped me find a leaking intake gasket that was brand spanking new. :mad: Windex only works under pressure. Vac sucks the liquid inside the leak. Check you fittings, block offs and other gaskets before you freak.
 
I submerged the saw up to the top of the crankcase and saw no bubbles. Going over the top of the carb seemed to scary. So it would seem the leak is not there. I bet it is around my crappy pieces of bike tube sealing the muffler and intake. Does this seem reasonable?

Now I cant answer your first question.... However I would think that the bike tube will get to hot, and crack when it shrinks and cools off.... I may be wrong, but I would not trust it....
 
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