Cheapie Poulan Pro 220 Repair ( Maybe )

[DFK]

Here the Story:
Some time back one of my coworkers heard me say that I wanted to learn to repair Chainsaws.
He said I got just what you need.
A few days later he showed with a Poulan Pro 220.
Was hoping for a Stihl MS460... But hay it was free.

So here goes.. This is my first attempt at repairing a Chainsaw.

David

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Well I hope you have fun. I did, and I think that model was one of my first to repair. Its pretty easy. Step one is just inspection. Pull the top cover, clutch cover, recoil, and muffler. Look it over and look for broken switch wires or broken fuel lines. Look in the exhaust port, piston should look new and smooth. Then you can start replacing fuel parts and rebuild the carb.

 

[DFK]

Here is a Pix of what I was given.
Poulan Pro 220 Power Head.
16" Quick Adjust Bar.
2- Lightly used (but dull) chains
Wrench
Owners Manuel (well soaked with bar oil)
and a black Storage Case.

David

 

[GeorgiaVol]

It looks to be in descent shape. Those are nice to use with a 14" bar.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

My guess is that when you pull the top cover the fuel lines will be in 20 pieces under the carb. And if you look in the fuel tank the weight is rolling around in there unattached.

 

[Efisher26]

That was my first one also, a freebee roadside. Cut well for a few years, and still is, i gave it to my buddy.


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7 x2
Husqvarna 36

 

[doubletrouble]

A friend of mine just recently gave me almost the exact same thing. Mine it a PP260. Had it running in about 15 minutes. The carb was tinkered with by someone that shouldn't own tools. So far out of whack it would flood right away and not start. Runs good now. Have yet to put it to some wood though.

 

[DFK]

OK, Here is a bit more.
Took the Fuel cap off and what fell out is in photo #1
Those little "bits" on the fuel filter are what is left of the fuel line. ( GeorgiaVol... are you Psychic )
Took the top cover off... Photo #2 is not very clear... But, What was under the hood dont look to bad.

Removed the chain cover and bar... The Chain Catcher is bent almost double.
There is a small hole near the bottom of the Bar Mount Plate. ( Is that a problem?? )

The Bar has fair size "Burs" on it. I can file the burs off. Maybe the bar can be saved.

Found a Parts List for this saw. The No. on the parts list is 530-088796.
From reading the parts list The PP220 seems to come in Type 1,2,3,4 and 5.

The SS No. on the saw is 01200D100437-3.
Does the 3 and the end of the SS No. make this saw a Type 3 ???

Late today I hope to find out what type of Carburetor is on it.

Thanks
David

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Carb most likely will be a warblo. I'm not sure if a zama went on those. Rebuild kit will be a K10-WAT. I will double check that. If you have a local small engine shop you can pick up 1 foot of small and medium fuel line, a primer bulb, and carb kit. Cost $15-20. Don't forget to pull the muffler. 2 x 5/16 bolts and it comes right off.

 

[scottr]

A friend of mine just recently gave me almost the exact same thing. Mine it a PP260. Had it running in about 15 minutes. The carb was tinkered with by someone that shouldn't own tools. So far out of whack it would flood right away and not start. Runs good now. Have yet to put it to some wood though.

 

[scottr]

Doubletrouble the PP260 has a 42cc engine and so does the PP220 .

 

[scottr]

OK, Here is a bit more.
Took the Fuel cap off and what fell out is in photo #1
Those little "bits" on the fuel filter are what is left of the fuel line. ( GeorgiaVol... are you Psychic )
Took the top cover off... Photo #2 is not very clear... But, What was under the hood dont look to bad.

Removed the chain cover and bar... The Chain Catcher is bent almost double.
There is a small hole near the bottom of the Bar Mount Plate. ( Is that a problem?? )

The Bar has fair size "Burs" on it. I can file the burs off. Maybe the bar can be saved.

Found a Parts List for this saw. The No. on the parts list is 530-088796.
From reading the parts list The PP220 seems to come in Type 1,2,3,4 and 5.

The SS No. on the saw is 01200D100437-3.
Does the 3 and the end of the SS No. make this saw a Type 3 ???

Late today I hope to find out what type of Carburetor is on it.

Thanks
David

OK, Here is a bit more.
Took the Fuel cap off and what fell out is in photo #1
Those little "bits" on the fuel filter are what is left of the fuel line. ( GeorgiaVol... are you Psychic )
Took the top cover off... Photo #2 is not very clear... But, What was under the hood dont look to bad.

Removed the chain cover and bar... The Chain Catcher is bent almost double.
There is a small hole near the bottom of the Bar Mount Plate. ( Is that a problem?? )

The Bar has fair size "Burs" on it. I can file the burs off. Maybe the bar can be saved.

Found a Parts List for this saw. The No. on the parts list is 530-088796.
From reading the parts list The PP220 seems to come in Type 1,2,3,4 and 5.

The SS No. on the saw is 01200D100437-3.
Does the 3 and the end of the SS No. make this saw a Type 3 ???

Late today I hope to find out what type of Carburetor is on it.

Thanks
David

DFK that serial number says that your saw was built on day 200 of year 2001 and it is a type 3 .

 

[Chris-PA]

Go back to the hole by the chain catcher - is the case broken through into the oil tank? I could not see. Just unscrew the catcher for a better look, an bend it back into shape with a pliers or whatever. If the case is cracked it could be a problem, but that would be unusual.

The carb will be a Walbro WT or ZAMA C1Q. I would not take it apart unless you have to. If you have to open it remove the covers and use a sharp utility knife or razor to carefully lift the diaphragms if they are stuck. Look for junk in the trash screen under the pump diaphragm (cover with the single center screw) - this is a possibility given the broken fuel lines.

You will need the small 0.140" OD line that goes from the filter to the carb inlet. If you have to you can drill the hole a little larger for more commonly available line. The line seals where is it squeezed through the hole into the tank, so the hole must be a little smaller than the OD of the line. Make sure the purge bulb is not cracked or broken.

Your fuel cap has come apart. Look inside and make sure the duck bill fuel vent is OK. It's probably green or red - there is a slit in the center that should open if you gently squeeze it. Push that retaining ring back in to cover it and reattach the retainer bail - try to line up the serrations on that push clip so they slide onto fresh plastic. Sometimes I take the clip off and bop it with a hammer to flatten it out a little if it won't grip.

Order the Chain Tensioner Adjuster Screw Kit (530069611) so you don't have to use those Intenz bars with the adjuster in it. The kit will go into the clutch cover you have, and they are only a couple of $. Google it or look on eBay.

You can do a simple muffler mod like this one that will make a big improvement in power - I cut out the bottom of the internal baffle like the one on the right:


You can add a simple gill to the side:


These are actually really nice saws, with nice A/V suspension and a good feel, and they make pretty good power even with just a muffler mod. The fuel tank is large and it will cut a lot of wood.

 

[Chris-PA]

The first saw in this video is essentially the same as yours but in Craftsman colors. The engine is stock with just a muffler mod, and the wood is extremely hard hickory that was dead for several years.

 

[DFK]

Well, Today was " Get the Taxes Done " day.....
So only about an hour to fiddel with the saw today.

The Carb. is a Walbro 391.
Question: Right in front of the WT391 that is stamped on the carb. Is a small brass looking pipe protruding from the side of the carb.
This pipe looks as if it should have a fuel line attached to it.
Is there supposed to be a fuel line attached to this pipe??

The Purge Button apperes to be useable but it feels dry and a bit stiff.
Most likely just replace it.

Removed the Muffler: The Cylinder and the piston both have the original machinning marks on them.
There is a bit of carbon on top of the piston. Looks like a bit to much to me.
But I dont know...

Put the muffler back on and removed the plug:
Put a dab of fuel mix down the plug hole and reinstalled the plug.
Two pulls and it came to life for about three seconds. The cluch spun up quite well.

Scottr:
Thanks. I thought someone could look that ss# up and figure it out.

Chris-PA:
This Duck Bill... Is it inside the fuel cap or .... Someplace else???
The hole is in the Plate that fits over the Bar Nut Studs.
It can be seen in the third photo that I posted. It is just above the bent over chain chatcher.

Thanks
David

 

[DFK]

Spent about a hour yesterday looking the little 220 saw over.

The bar is no good. It will have to be replaced.
Looking for a part number for a NON Quick Adjust 16" Bar that will work with the Chain Tensioner Kit ( 530069611 ) Help.

The Bar Mounting Plate is bent. Will have to be replace.

Going to replace the Carb. and the Fuel Lines.
Is there a higher quality fuel line than those that are installed at the factory?????

Also: Where is the best place to order parts from?????

Thanks
David

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Unless it's different from anything I know, bars and chains can be found at walmart, home depot, lowes, local dealer, etc. I get my fuel lines at a Stihl repair shop for $1 a foot. I get my carbs and kits, air filters, and fuel filters off of ebay.

Wal-Mart did have a lot of those Poulan color match bars on clearance. Might still be some in your area.

 

[Efisher26]

Check left coast for on sale bars


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[scottr]

Well, Today was " Get the Taxes Done " day.....
So only about an hour to fiddel with the saw today.

The Carb. is a Walbro 391.
Question: Right in front of the WT391 that is stamped on the carb. Is a small brass looking pipe protruding from the side of the carb.
This pipe looks as if it should have a fuel line attached to it.
Is there supposed to be a fuel line attached to this pipe??

The Purge Button apperes to be useable but it feels dry and a bit stiff.
Most likely just replace it.

Removed the Muffler: The Cylinder and the piston both have the original machinning marks on them.
There is a bit of carbon on top of the piston. Looks like a bit to much to me.
But I dont know...

Put the muffler back on and removed the plug:
Put a dab of fuel mix down the plug hole and reinstalled the plug.
Two pulls and it came to life for about three seconds. The cluch spun up quite well.

Scottr:
Thanks. I thought someone could look that ss# up and figure it out.

Chris-PA:
This Duck Bill... Is it inside the fuel cap or .... Someplace else???
The hole is in the Plate that fits over the Bar Nut Studs.
It can be seen in the third photo that I posted. It is just above the bent over chain chatcher.

Thanks
David

Hey David, the duckbill is in the gas cap,it is the fuel tank vent. The Oregon Double Guard 16"bar for your saw with a bar adjust kit is part number 160SDEA041. The bar plate only looks bent where it was hit by a thrown chain. I think the hole above the chain catcher is for the oil tank vent. Give that carb a chance before you call it bad. How about a picture of your Intenze PP bar ?

 

[DFK]

Found the Duckbill. It is in tack and apperes to be fine.
Got the Fuel Cap Keeper put back in. That was easy enough.

First things First.
The motor will not run: The Fuel Lines, Bubble and Carb. are tost.
The Fuel Lines and Bubble will be replaced.
The Carb... I am leaning in the direction of a Carb. Repair Kit. Part # 530069826
Are any Special tools required to rebuild a Carb????

Here are some pix of the bar. A paint stick is laying on the bar to show how uneven they are.
All three are much the same.

Thanks
David