TreeGuyHR
ArboristSite Guru
I hear you on the gaffs. I got over-sized pads for my hooks, but I still would lose skin until I started wrapping my shins with ace bandages.
Works like a charm !
Chunking a big cedar
- Thread starter Greener
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I hear you on the gaffs. I got over-sized pads for my hooks, but I still would lose skin until I started wrapping my shins with ace bandages.
Works like a charm !
Greener
ArboristSite Operative
idk maybe join a gym? this is only over 4-6 cuts? we just did a tree where the climber was up for think it was 7 hours with a 660 with a 36" bar in a monster cottonwood, for just the logs, was brushed out the day before by another crew to get it ready for us the "A team" haha we are "crew A" so you know A team sounds better
Probably was up there so long because he had that big saw and bar. Overkill. Especially in that soft of wood. I ended up using the 36 with a 24" bar in this 54" dbh cedar that stayed pretty fat most the way up. No problem. About 5-10 seconds through each chunk.
ya ok tell that to me after you have to rig down a real tree in a day or do you recommend a 192 with a 48" bar???? your telling me he would have made it through 48" LIMBS faster with a tiny saw? don't think so this tree was freakin huge. it was a tree we were the only ones they could find who would bid the damn thing! toting the saw around didn't slow the climber down moving around we were never waiting on him
5-10 seconds a cut? on a 54" tree? do you mean 5.4"??? I know cedar is soft but come on man 5-10 seconds?
I think most stuff around here is over-the-top with the safety stuff, but this is a big deal.
You have to be able to put a running saw into cutting position, and cut it right. It's wrong to tell someone (who has their hands full anyway), to take big sections for milling sake, with a saw outside their comfort zone.
Take as big of stuff, with as little saw as you can, as long as you are sure you have the cut covered. The bigger the saw, the worse job your gonna do making the cut. Fact.
The difference between using a top handle and a 60-70cc saw in a tree is huge. Respect that.
Don't go with the bigger saw until you've done it a few times with smaller saws,, and you know the cut is going to be easier with a bigger saw.
You have to be able to put a running saw into cutting position, and cut it right. It's wrong to tell someone (who has their hands full anyway), to take big sections for milling sake, with a saw outside their comfort zone.
Take as big of stuff, with as little saw as you can, as long as you are sure you have the cut covered. The bigger the saw, the worse job your gonna do making the cut. Fact.
The difference between using a top handle and a 60-70cc saw in a tree is huge. Respect that.
Don't go with the bigger saw until you've done it a few times with smaller saws,, and you know the cut is going to be easier with a bigger saw.
:agree2:
I was chunking down a hackberry last week with a 460mag and a 36" bar. I wouldn't think of gnawing all day long when I can whistle through in one pass. That big saw is only heavy until the cut is well started. Then...just keep rolling through.
Even though the saw might be twice as heavy, you will only be on the cut less than 1/2 as long. When I am carrying a saw in the tree, the biggest burden is ME, not the saw, so 1/2 as much time on rope is a big improvement.
TreEmergencyB
ArboristSite Guru
Once its in the cut the 'weight' of the saw really isnt an issue.
Kottonwood
ArboristSite Operative
I do a lot of cottonwoods... not all are giants but some are... never had one with 48" limbs though. I use the 460 with a 36" bar and SHARP full skip chain, works great and it's not to heavy. But hell, if you got the guns for it and want to sling a 66 power to ya. In cottonwoods it is the undercuts on horizontal limbs that'll get ya, that is where the 46 with big dogs is nice. In your cedar that is probably what I would bring up, 46 with a 36.
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Kottonwood
ArboristSite Operative
If you can't sling a 46 in a tree and take 8 foot logs with a tag line to the ground then you have no business cutting down a 40" old growth cedar. JMO. Use the right saw for the job.
yea a 46 with a 36" would be a good setup but we can only work with what they buy us O and I don't think they ever heard of skip chain... and this tree was freakin ridiculous! and believe me the leads that split off the main trunk were every bit of 48" I wheeled them out on a log cart trust me
Greener
ArboristSite Operative
Ok, ok. I apologize for being a bit judgy on that. I respect the skills on that big cottonwood. I respect the feedback.
Greener
ArboristSite Operative
What about with no tag line. Would that change your opinion?
Greener
ArboristSite Operative
I am puny and weak I like my 192....I'm wondering if I could even start my 660 off the ground
You can start it, but the fatigue causes your cuts to be less quality and less concise. You just don't notice how the fatigue affects how effective you are.
expertech
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm with you. You don't have to keep changing positions to stay safe and comfortable or properly positioned for the cut and it's much easier to drop the chunks on a dime, and if you're good, make them land flat. I have done some giant cedars and other grandfather conifers and I always preferred to drag a big saw up with me as opposed to pulling it up on a rope or using a smaller saw. My rule is: Big wood=Big saw. I guess it's up to personal preference. Any other big tree veterans out there, I'm interested to hear your thoughts.
expertech
ArboristSite Lurker
Tag lines? I have wedged huge chunks off big Firs and other conifers where I couldn't even see the ground through the canopy. Take your big saw, a heavy hammer and a wedge pouch up with you and get er done!!!
expertech
ArboristSite Lurker
Man, I would be dumping bigger chunks than that off that tree. Cut em big and finish on the ground, it's safer.
expertech
ArboristSite Lurker
That's what I'm talking about!!! I too have done some gigantic ponderosas. The big tree veterans know what's up! I have dragged the biggest Stihls on the market up big wood. It's just the way to do it!
beastmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Its not so much the size and weight of the saw that's difficult, once you stick those dogs in the tree the weighs gone for the most part. But starting that bit** up in the tree over and over can really wear you out. The last job I did I used a 066 that wouldn't Idel, and when it died it was hard to start up again. Felt like tossing it out the tree.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
TreeGuyHR
ArboristSite Guru
Looking at that pic again, yea, I could have taken a bigger chunk. I think I had the rest down in two.Coming from high up, you get an appreciation of the energy imparted to chunk when it falls 60 or 80 ft. The top slid off nicely, but still managed to travel around 20 ft. downwind (around 25 ft. top). I did have a curb, paving, a fence, shrubs, and a man hole cover to deal with. The shrub lost...
I'm 5'8" and about 155lbs. I climb with my 460 frequently when blocking down trunks. I have a 30" bar on it and while a little heavy, once in the cut, all you have to do is let it cut. I could climb with a smaller saw to do the same work. But it's so easy to just get it done in fewer cuts, all the way through. In the long run, it's more efficient because you don't have to fuss with a smaller saw and reposition several times for each cut.
