Chunking down big wood?

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9th year rookie

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Location
New England
I took down a big Red Oak yesterday.
On smaller stuff, I usually put a slice in the front (rather than a face cut) to prevent the bark from pealing down.
On bigger wood, I usually put in a face cut.
I had a guy on the ground (w/more experience than me) suggesting to put in a small (2-3" deep) slice in the front to prevent the peal, then back cut, slightly above. Once 1/2 way in, dog the saw through w/1 hand, and push w/the other hand.

I know 1 handing isn't the best practice, but I tried.

Couple of issues to note.


1) 93 degrees and toward end of day.
2) I didn't like being behind the wood (on back side of hinge).
I like being perpendicular to the hinge in case the chunk goes the wrong way.
So I was about 1/2 way between where I was comfortable and where I didnt want to be .

Usually I can see it start to move, power down and hang the saw, and push the chunk over. Yesterday, as I got close, the chunk came down and pinched the saw.

The plus side - the slight lean was with me and my rigging set up was near perfect.

Next time, scarf the face cut and tag line to help me move the big stuff.

Comments? :confused: Fire away
 
Well being behind the notch is where I want to be as if the chunk
peels to one side you are out of the way. Also I have got used to
blocking down on arborist block and want tree between me and wood slamming spar. I will place a tag if I am taking out large
hunk but it is a lot safer to take it out smaller an better on chain
as no chance getting saw in dirt on ground.
 
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I take it you mean pushing off firewood or so sized blocks? If I am pushing off logs, then I use an undercut. Blocks, I just cut right through, then push as I'm cutting, or grab after and throw down. Big blocks, like 24"+, and heavy, I use a big and powerfull sharp saw. I just start cutting and keep going, the proper saw will keep cutting and not jam. Then I push off the block with both hands.
 
I take it you mean pushing off firewood or so sized blocks? If I am pushing off logs, then I use an undercut. Blocks, I just cut right through, then push as I'm cutting, or grab after and throw down. Big blocks, like 24"+, and heavy, I use a big and powerfull sharp saw. I just start cutting and keep going, the proper saw will keep cutting and not jam. Then I push off the block with both hands.

Yes I do that sometimes or snap cut on firewood depends on lean and
how close objects are below as big saws can throw chunks of wood also!
 
And i get laughed at for taking up a small felling wedge when chunking a spar.

Not me, I always have one in my pocket, and use it!

I am dead against one handing where you are in the potential kickback zone, if you are still cutting and pushing at the same time, that chunk can spin at the last minute, trap the saw, kickback...armpit, chest, stomach, right in the firing line.
Those who have been doing this for a long time will be comfortable with their own techniques, one handed or two, and some guys are strong enough to one hand 'safely', I would not.
Do what feels right and is safe for you after you assess the risk to YOUR life and limb!
 
I use a wedge all the time. The wedge is tied to a string about three feet long and tied to a snap on the other end and clipped to my saddle. Once I get half way through the cut i stick the wedge in the kerf and continue cutting all the way through. After I push the log off the wedge falls off the spar and stays attatched to my saddle.
 
Not from this corner, a wedge is great for that but must know the limitations!!!

That is correct-won't use it for pulling something against a lean, that's what a rope is for. Just a small 3" wedge. Works great with short, fat chunks where you can't really get good leverage to keep the backcut from pinching.
Not me, I always have one in my pocket, and use it!

I am dead against one handing where you are in the potential kickback zone, if you are still cutting and pushing at the same time, that chunk can spin at the last minute, trap the saw, kickback...armpit, chest, stomach, right in the firing line.

And that's another reason the wedge is used-sucks trying to hold the chunk off the 395 with one hand and trying to finish the cut with the other. Couple taps on the wedge and two hands back on the saw.
I use a wedge all the time. The wedge is tied to a string about three feet long and tied to a snap on the other end and clipped to my saddle. Once I get half way through the cut i stick the wedge in the kerf and continue cutting all the way through. After I push the log off the wedge falls off the spar and stays attatched to my saddle.

Awesome-almost the same technique i use. Drilled a hole from side to side at the top of the wedge and ran a string through that hooks right to my saddle. Usually don't even need any kind of hammer-a couple taps with the fist is more than enough to get the job done.

Interesting that more people than i thought use wedges up a tree. I'm the only climber i've ever run across in this area that uses them on a stem. Figured that since they work good on the ground when logging, why not up the tree when chunking.
 
I use a wedge all the time. The wedge is tied to a string about three feet long and tied to a snap on the other end and clipped to my saddle. Once I get half way through the cut i stick the wedge in the kerf and continue cutting all the way through. After I push the log off the wedge falls off the spar and stays attatched to my saddle.

Hey!! I am so going to do that! I've dropped enough wedges, thanks for the lightbulb moment!!!:blob2:
 
If the blocks are big enough that you need a 395, they are heavy enough to stay in place while you cut right through, with two hands. No wedges needed on firewood sized blocks.
 
If the blocks are big enough that you need a 395, they are heavy enough to stay in place while you cut right through, with two hands. No wedges needed on firewood sized blocks.

Clearance while you may have a point in row work the
arborist usually has valuables below his LZ and does not
want the powerful saw throwing the chunk as they sometimes do in that
manner! That is why a wedge or snap cut is used in these instances for
better control of the chunk and less chance of kick back!
 
Clearance while you may have a point in row work the
arborist usually has valuables below his LZ and does not
want the powerful saw throwing the chunk as they sometimes do in that
manner! That is why a wedge or snap cut is used in these instances for
better control of the chunk and less chance of kick back!

Rope, I do it all the time, and having a chunk land on a powerline can be worse than some thing on a res. job. Like I said, if the chunk is big enough to require a 395, its not going to get thrown off, just ain't gonna happen. In fact, the blocks get real hard to push off after a while. I well remember using a 288 with a 32" bar to firewood down a big fir. The 16" blocks were like 150lbs.+ Now, when the blocks are smaller, and I'm using my 200, or sometimes even a bigger saw, then of course I one hand. I have used the snap cut, very few times though. When I fall logs I alway use an undercut, backcut with one hand and push with the other, if I can.
 
correct me please if i am wrong but the name of the arboriculture game is...do everything with a sense of responsibility and control. i dont see how there is EVER a time to one hand, point blank. its not a good saw practice and i dont believe there is ANY good argument for it...its dangerous and before one's carreer is over, the one handed saw will come back to bite them
 
correct me please if i am wrong but the name of the arboriculture game is...do everything with a sense of responsibility and control. i dont see how there is EVER a time to one hand, point blank. its not a good saw practice and i dont believe there is ANY good argument for it...its dangerous and before one's carreer is over, the one handed saw will come back to bite them
No big deal, cut how you want to and I'll do the same. There have been big arguement here about it many times.
 
I try not to one hand , however a small climb saw out of a bucket
to cut and pitch limbs and wood, I have done for years with no problems
I do not recommend the practice but will continue to use it when amicable!
I am very careful and know what causes problems doing it but can't lie as
I have done some no,nos without incident!
 
Hey!! I am so going to do that! I've dropped enough wedges, thanks for the lightbulb moment!!!:blob2:

Just like beowulf343 said, drill a hole in the wedge and run the string through it. I use the same string that i use on my throwball. I got the wedge out just the other day, was chunking down a pretty big one. Be sure to get the plastic wedges though, anything else would be too heavy.
 
Just like beowulf343 said, drill a hole in the wedge and run the string through it. I use the same string that i use on my throwball. I got the wedge out just the other day, was chunking down a pretty big one. Be sure to get the plastic wedges though, anything else would be too heavy.

What about the maul :laugh:
 
I cut my left wrist one handing last year, I was pushing off a top, had taken my finger off the gas but the chain was still spinning, I had cut off the holding wood on one side and she kicked back. Stitches, a few little scars where the bar skipped along, no permanent damage. I admitted it here when it happened, should be honest about these things. So its not without its dangers, if you don't feel confident doing it, don't.
 

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