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big mac

Al, thanks for the info. I didn't even look at what size chain the Mac 840 it would take. You're right! Looks like it takes much large chain than I have around. Maybe 1/2"??

As I collect only Stihl, I'll have to find a new home for this one. I just finished a rebuild on a Stihl 056. I figure it took about 17 hours. rick
 
Lombard and Lombard

We have here a pair of Lombards,with different colors,and sold by different companys.Both are 4.2 cu. in,reed valve [pyramid ] engines.The green one was marketed by American Lincoln under the model Lightnig II and the orange one by Cambell-Hausfield called the Commango [ an acro. for command and go ] I have been told that they are a take-off of the Homelite[ can't remember the model number]They are light ,for an all metal saw,and have pretty good power.Not fast,by todays standards,they are still pretty peppy little saws.They are,however real loud,and do vibrate [no anti-vib]Of all the saws,weed-wackers,kart engines,out boards etc.that I have worked on over the years,they are the most cantankerus for tuneing that I have ever seen.The slightest tiny bit of the high speed jet adjustment,makes a world of differance with regards to performance,has been my experiance with these saws. Al
 
Re: big mac

Originally posted by deereguy
Looks like it takes much large chain than I have around. Maybe 1/2"??

As I collect only Stihl, I'll have to find a new home for this one. rick

Rick,

The 750 Homelite I got from you is still sitting in a box. I guess if you want to part with the 840 it could keep the 750 company. Also it just so happens I have new 1/2 inch chain.

Bill
 
Stihl and Stihl

Deereguy:Here we have a pair of 048 Stihls.The one with the 20"bar has an sem ignition.It came from a Stihl dealer in disguise as an E-bay seller[ you know Stihls "good ole boy" policy].The guy was honest,and told me it had a spun main bearing[bad air filter].In this case,Stihls policy is to replace the crankcase half [nonsense] I miced the bearing pocket[not that bad] and simply raised the metal a bit with a center punch,and installed the bearing in the usual method [also using some Loktite shrink fit compound].Not the usual method,but it worked for me.The other one ,with the 32"bar,came from a tree trimer in Ill[good old e-bay].This one has a Bosc ignition and a ported muffler/exaust.The only thing wrong,was a broken fuel line[hooray]It handles the 32"bar with ease[7 tooth rim,full skip chain] but just barely puts out enough oil for this size bar.The one with the 20"bar[8 tooth rim ,full comp chain] is really robust.My only complaint with Stihl,is their sales policy,and the fact they are real proud of their repair parts.All in all,they make a very fine product,I hope their arrogance does not led them in the pathways of McCulloch and Homelite.I almost forgot,I rebuilt both saws carbs[stard practice for me] and replaced all the anti-vibs. Al
 
McCulloch 6-10 and Pro 610 part 1

Sunday morning in Ohio,and I am up to more normal ramblings:This is a little blurb about the much talked about,and confusion of the models 6-10 and 610.The 6-10 is one of the largest of the 10 series saws at 4.3 cubic inchs.Like the 610,it is of the piston ported design.Unlike the 610,it is,it is all metal,and has a coil and points ignition,the 610 is electronic.The 6-10 is right hand start,the 610 is left.In the picture,the skinny one with the 28"bar is the 6-10,the rather plump one with the 16" bar is the 610.[ normally a 20",too many saws too few bars] The 6-10,with it's point system ,lacks a ability to advance the timing at higher r.p.m.,however with a little bit of "tweaking"[sometimes I just can't help myself],with the ignition timing,it is cabable of the r.p.m. range of the Stihls and Huskys.One hot little saw.In my opinion,If good old John Paxton McCulloch had not went off the buy London bridge and the directors had not had their head in the sand and did further development of the 10 series,{anti vib etc.],they could have "saved the Day" for McCulloch Motors.Now,off to the next post.Al
 
6-10 and 610 part 2

More of the same;About the Pro 610.First,the "pro" is a misnomer,it was marketed as a consumer saw,a large firewood cutter for the "weekend warrier"[ sold at K-Mart for $169.95 ] It came out during a period when the energy brokers had created shortages of everything from gasoline to sugar beets{remember] thus a resurgance of woodburning was born[ Buck stoves etc]Although much bad mouthed,I don't have one bad thing to say about it.At 3.7 cu. in,it has ample power,the anti vib is not as good as Stihls,but works well.During the 70's,I burned,cut and sold firewood for $40. a pick-up load[about 1/2 cord] and had about 50 customers.With this saw,and a little Poulan [in disguise as a Dayton],I would average about 3,sometimes 4 cord a week[ a lot younger then, and had a lot less money]I would say over a period of 8 years,that I wore out about a 5 gallon bucket full of saw chain,as well as several bars.In another thread of this forum,someone made comment that the average logger makes about 200 cuts per day,think how many a pro firewood cutter makes.The saw is as sound today[less the chain brake] as it was 20 yrs ago,it just has a well used ,seasoned look about it now.The saw is in semi retirement these days,it earned it.Al
 
Got one those PM 610s sitting in my shed right now. A friend wants me to get it ready for him. He's moving to Arkansas and needs to do some lot cleanup. From what he says he'll need a saw more like an 066 to cut some of his trees up. I may make a roadtrip in a couple of months.

Anyway, is there anything I need to look for? As far as I know it runs. Even has a deactivated chainbrake. I think I'll fix that for him since he knows next to nothing about saws.

Everything I've ever read about this saw says it's good. Your comments confirmed this. It is also the ugliest saw I have ever laid eyes on.

Chris
 
056 just finished

Al, attached is the 056 I just finished.

Something I just found that is valuable a new 2004 Stihl pricelist 176 pages. Now I know if a part is available and how much I would expect to pay. I'll post a picture of the old mac I was talking about. rick
 
Pic

Here is a picture of the oldest saw that I currently have. 990G. Nice cool old saw but it will break your back with a 40 oregon super tronic bar on it. :)
 
Reply pm 610

cbfarmall:Most of the problems,I have encountered with the pm 610,has been fuel lines[ I worked on 6 of them,last year]It seems to be a metric size,and I forgot what I used to replace it.Keep in mind that all the bolts etc. are metric.If it has set for a long time,chances are the carb. is all gunked up.It could be a Tillotson,Walbro or Zama.Rebuild kits are readily available and cheap.All three makers also have excellent web sites.If it won't oil,try a little kerosine to loosen pump plunger.The auto oiler works off of engine crancase impulse[same as the carb. diaphram.]Turning the pump screw counter clockwise,increases the amount of oil to to the bar[increases the pump piston stroke]Very rarely does the coil go bad [solid state]I got one for my son,with a bad coil.The saw looked brade new.$40.for the saw,and $33.for the coil.I see them on e-bay for $10. to $20.If you encounter ignition problems,I can look up the numbers for you. Good luck. Al
 
I never had a single problem with my old PM610, started on the first to fifth pull cold, one pull warm, ran perfectly, I got it for $5 at a yard sale and I only had to change a fuel filer, and rebuild the carb on it, plus sharpen the chain and I had a great saw for a while, until I sold it and bought a Jonsered that has MORE POWER than the MAC had, I still miss the old PM610 some days, like the ones when I'm trying to get a tree down and the main saw just wont stay running to do it.

I've never had a bad thing to say about the Pro Mac series saws, the 310 seems to be the exception to that though. The 610 ran fast smooth as glass, plenty of power, rugged as a sherman tank, nice Antivibe, and a HUGE oil tank, I put almost a whole quart of bar oil in that thing to fill it. I miss the manual override pump on the oiler for extra oil when its needed. The only thing I dodnt like was the saw weighed about 20 pounds with a bar and chain on it, small thing in comparison to the good things about it.

One day soon I may just buy me a nice old McCulloch like perhaps the 6-10 model or maybe a saw that has more engine than anything else.
 
Super pro 125,rebore part 1

Rick;Nice job on the 056.This is a story about the "mother "of all my rebuilds.I always wanted a big old SP 125,and thought I found a good one ,cheap Wrooooong.The man said"it needs a little tuneing" Wrooong.The Super Pro 125C,was made during a time McCulloch thought it was a good idea to put fixed carbs on the saws to prevent a "lean run" condition.It seems some fool drilled a 3/4"hole in the air box ,hopeing to make the saw run better,which of course,it did not.What it did do was cause the saw to do on a force fed diet of Douglas fir chips,by bypassing the air filter.The poor old saw didn't like it at all and regurgitated the chrome around the tranfer ports,which in turn broke a ring and wiped the cylinder[ humbug]I got in touch with the seller,and he said he would send me another block.[ spoke with forked tounge] What to do?Aha,make a liner[ugh]I am a pretty fair novice machinist,and I have nothing to lose,so I went for It.Bored the block about .140" useing a 1938 model m Bridgeport and a homemade single point boring bar[ 5 hrs to make the tooling ,holding fixture and tram the mill and 30 min. to bore the block]The liner is grade 50 grey cast turned on a Monarch 10EE.[on to the next post, part 2]
 
Sounds like that saw went through he[[ before you got it. nice set of machines though, if I had those I wouldnt know what to do with any of them.
 
Rebore part 2

The liner is cut .003" larger than the rebore and shrink fitted to the bore.It was finnish honed with a Lisle precision hone.The ports were recut with a Dremel tool using carbide,then silicon boron and finaly Kraytex .Stock ports,but highly polished[breaths real good].Reassembley was completed with new rings and seals[thanks again Mike] and I threw the fixed jet Tillotson and replaced it with a fully adjustible Walbro.Friends ,I don't have hours on this one,I have weeks.It was either a "labor of love"or one of stupidity,but it's a keeper know.At this post,it has less than 20 min. running time after the rebuild.As a final note,J.J.,if you are out thereI got it running inspite of you.:blob2: :blob2: Al
 
Al:

Got it going and just about ready to cut after a sharpening. Is the chainbrake tough to engage on this thing? Have to hit the handle pretty hard to trip it. And I'm not sure if the spring will stay put. I'd hate to give the saw back and have the spring shift. If it locked up the brake, he'd have no clue what to do with it.

Chris B.

Postscript: This is about the PM 610.
 
Last edited:
Originally posted by gr8mac
To the collectors out there. What new saws have you added to your collection recently? Recently I have added a Homelite Zip, Echo 610EVL, and a Jonsered 70E.

Have just added a Homelite, C-5. That I received from an AS menber. Have 2 more coming in July, a Bolens, 3900-10 and Homelite, C-51 and some other prospects. Will post some pics, when I develope my 35mm film and scan to my computer. Take care. Lewis.
 
Sp 125 rebore post script

Hello All;In my post about the rebore I made referance to JJ,at the end of the post.I did not imply nor express in any way,form or fashion that JJ was "Jacob J."an arborist site member. I guess there a many JJ'S but few Al's. Al
 
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