converting a remmington super 660

[irishcountry]

Ok I have a question about a old remmington super 660 saw. My father keeps insisting that you cannot get a bar or chain for it and the bar on it now is on its way out so it cannot be used but it would seem to me that you could change the sprocket and bar and other than needing to drill holes for oil it would be ready to go. Now all that being said I really do not know alot about saws so this is why i'm asking I looked through the baileys cat. and found a bar that matches the slot but not the oil holes. Would like to set it up for milling but gotta get past step 1 first. Any info would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks

 

[oldsaw]

Yes, it is possible. I've modded many of my Stihl bars to fit my Husky with an adapter. I'm in the process of modding a 22" rollernose to fit the Husky as well. That will need new oil holes drilled as well. Yes, it can be done. Use the old bar as a pattern.

BTW, you will need to get some cobalt drill bits, and drill as slow as your drill will go. Cutting oil is a good thing too.

Mark

 

[olyman]

oldsaw--they can also be drilled with carbide--i buy the bits---they are called "cement" bits at lowes,home depot,menards. they look like a regular drill bit--but with a carbide tip--ive drilled 3 bars that someone forgot to drill for the grease lube hole--and numerous hard transmission shafts---oil, and go slow---

 

[Railomatic]

drills

You can also use a masonary bit to drill your bar, you will need to alter the cutting angle first to about 20 degrees using a green grinding stone, before you start drilling build a small reservior out of blue tack or similar putty will do
around the hole to be, fill the reservior with cutting fluid and once you start cutting don't stop or the metal will work harden and you will have difficulty starting again, same goes for a cobalt drill.

 

[irishcountry]

Hey thanks guys!!

Thanks for the info on the drilling I wouldn't have thought of that. Great job on that last mill rail very professional!! Now as for the "chain" aspect would the drive end of the saw need to be changed to fit modern standards? Like I said I don't know alot about saws chains pitches ect. this is my busiest time of the years but come July I have some trees picked out to play with and would like to get this saw hooked up and ready to go if its worth putting the money into if not I will probrobly look into a 395xp but this remington runs really well we used it last year to drop a tree of heaven and I had wished i'd have found this site back then and had the means to mill cuz it ended up in my greenhouses woodburner!! Again thank you all for your input.

 

[Railomatic]

info

When you look for a suitable bar make sure the original chainsaws drive sprocket matches the chain , bar and groove you are buying.
You can always get someone to try and match/machine a modern clutch onto the Remington but that is going to start costing good money, which could go towards a new saw.
You mentioned a new saw, one that is often overlooked is the Makita/Dolmar 9010, 90cc's of German quality, not be be shunned at, they are an excellent saw, every bit as good as a Stihl or Husky.
I have mentioned this on the forum before, if you are getting into milling from scratch, go for a smaller pitch bar and chain, you can get a combination from Cannon where you use a 325 pitch chain by changing the nose sprocket, this will give you a much quicker cutting speed.
A good combo would be a Dolmar 9010, 50 inch bar from Cannon and a 325 chain from Oregon, for much much less than a Stihl or Husky, then mill to your hearts content.

 

[irishcountry]

makita

Thanks rail yeah I remember you posting about the test runs with the makita and it got me searching for a source to buy one I found their smaller saws but not the 9010 on this side of the pond so if you know where to get one let me know I would be interested. Speaking of the combo you mentioned would that run a 36" bar and can you run .325 on a bar that long? If I went that route I would want to just get the 36" alaskan maybe I could go a bit smaller I suppose you can use the mini to shave it down till you get it to a workable size the use a smaller alaskan I would like to make custom benching and or new ends for my greenhouse and possibly beams (timberframe style) to fix up or add on to our outbuildings. Again thanks for your input and time.

 

[irishcountry]

last post

Ok I was in a hurry and didn't catch the 50" cannon bar so disregard that question about running a 36" bar. I did some searching and found out from Makitas website that the 9010 has been discontinued but the ps-9010 Dolmar is still around but the price is about the same as a husky 395xp at least on the sites I found the dolmar looks like a well made peice of machinery though. I will search for cannon and see what they have. Thanks for the info.

 

[Railomatic]

Ok I was in a hurry and didn't catch the 50" cannon bar so disregard that question about running a 36" bar. I did some searching and found out from Makitas website that the 9010 has been discontinued but the ps-9010 Dolmar is still around but the price is about the same as a husky 395xp at least on the sites I found the dolmar looks like a well made peice of machinery though. I will search for cannon and see what they have. Thanks for the info.

Over here the 9010 is half the price of a 395xp.