Converting gas splitter over to electric
- Thread starter jddodge
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rx7145
ArboristSite Guru
Check out this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=53686&highlight=northern+37ton
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
You can do it. You need to run the motor off of 230 v to have enough Hp. Match the Honda's RPM as closely as possible. Only half the electric Hp rating is required, and get about the heaviest commercial duty cord and switch you can find.
Check out Nebraska Surplus Center for your best buys in motors, pulleys, switches, and cords.
RON58
ArboristSite Operative
Not sure what ya mean about the HP. What HP and RPM electric would be required to power 16 gpm pump? Thanks
rx7145
ArboristSite Guru
4-5hp and 3450rpm. 1800rpm would work also just have a slow cycle speed.
Most 2 stage splitter pumps don't have a good efficienty rating, they're about 85% to begin with. They're rated at about 3500 rpm, the governed speed of most gas engines. If you run one at 1800 or 1725 which is the speed of the low range electric motors, you won't be happy with it, not only will it be slow, it won't have all its power. The higher range electric motors are 3450 rpm, thats what you want. Use a lovejoy type coulper, belts or chains don't work good. Most pumps don't have an outboard bearing, they won't hold up to a belt & especially a roller chain. I found out the hard way. Find a 4 or 5 hp motor, make sure it's continuous duty, 220 volt. Reversable would be good too, in case your pump isn't.
hoot gibson
ArboristSite Operative
i put the 1725 rpm motor on my splitter , and now the second stage of the pump don't work . but it worked with the gas motor . so I'm going to change it to a 3500 rpm motor , and see if it makes a difference. h
Thanks for the great information. This weekend will get cold in central Minnesota. We are looking at -5 for a high on Saturday. I will be burning wood..not splitting. I will update the post as I move forward.
Take a look at this one. For $130, it's a steal:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008011611324615&item=10-2390&catname=electric
However, it's also a heavy puppy, designed originally to run a compressor. There will be some engineering involved in mounting it and hooking it up to your pump.
mbopp
ArboristSite Operative
A long time ago I found some formulas for power, GPM, pressure, cylinder diameter & ram speed. From what I remember: 1 HP=1GPM @ 1500 PSI. And a typical hydraulic system is 2200 (+/-) PSI.
Any chance you can split the pump, tank & engine from the rest of the system? You can run that outside & use long hydraulic lines to run the splitter inside.
Any chance you can split the pump, tank & engine from the rest of the system? You can run that outside & use long hydraulic lines to run the splitter inside.
When looking for an electric motor for a hydraulic pump it is best to find what is called a C-face motor. A C-face motor is designed for direct pump mounting with proper adapter.
Q i put the 1725 rpm motor on my splitter , and now the second stage of the pump don't work . but it worked with the gas motor . so I'm going to change it to a 3500 rpm motor , and see if it makes a difference. Q
???not sure why that would matter. You might have something else goign on. Do you mean if stays in high volume, won't kick down to low volume? or that it stays in low volume, slow speed? The unloading of the first section is based on pressure, not on speed or flow.
Theoretical hp is (gpm x psi) / 1714. Add 10-20% for mechanical and volumetric losses.
Not a nice ratio between gas engine hp and electric hp. 'hp' are the same-it is a physics term with fixed definition of work done per unit of time, regardless of where it comes from.
However, the overload capability, before a gas motor stalls is maybe only 20% more than it's rated torque at highest speed.
An electric motor will pull down to maybe 100% or more of torque overload before it stalls. Granted, amp draw increases dramatically, and it might let the smoke out at that load fairly quickly.
So the trick is how much overload can it take for how long without overheating or shortening the life of the windings.
When you say 16 gpm, this is both sections at 3600 rpm assumedly? If 4:1 ratio, assuming then 4 gpm out at 2500 psi, this is 6.3 hp. A 5 hp hp motor would be at SF 1.27. This should be ok, the pulldown torque is quite a bit higher than that. SF is mostly a heat dissipation issue: the winding get too hot. Most motors can run SF 1.15 continuously, some older ones were 1.3 but not common now. You should be able to run this duty on a home application. Hundreds of hours is many years.
Way less maintenance also!
I have a friend with 460-3-60 in his sawmill. I am watching for an industrial ebay/surplus/scrap power unit about 15 hp to build a system for him.
kcj
???not sure why that would matter. You might have something else goign on. Do you mean if stays in high volume, won't kick down to low volume? or that it stays in low volume, slow speed? The unloading of the first section is based on pressure, not on speed or flow.
Theoretical hp is (gpm x psi) / 1714. Add 10-20% for mechanical and volumetric losses.
Not a nice ratio between gas engine hp and electric hp. 'hp' are the same-it is a physics term with fixed definition of work done per unit of time, regardless of where it comes from.
However, the overload capability, before a gas motor stalls is maybe only 20% more than it's rated torque at highest speed.
An electric motor will pull down to maybe 100% or more of torque overload before it stalls. Granted, amp draw increases dramatically, and it might let the smoke out at that load fairly quickly.
So the trick is how much overload can it take for how long without overheating or shortening the life of the windings.
When you say 16 gpm, this is both sections at 3600 rpm assumedly? If 4:1 ratio, assuming then 4 gpm out at 2500 psi, this is 6.3 hp. A 5 hp hp motor would be at SF 1.27. This should be ok, the pulldown torque is quite a bit higher than that. SF is mostly a heat dissipation issue: the winding get too hot. Most motors can run SF 1.15 continuously, some older ones were 1.3 but not common now. You should be able to run this duty on a home application. Hundreds of hours is many years.
Way less maintenance also!
I have a friend with 460-3-60 in his sawmill. I am watching for an industrial ebay/surplus/scrap power unit about 15 hp to build a system for him.
kcj
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