Cutting cylinder bases

[Stihl 041S]

I will have to see what people are using for mandrels because I am not rally sure of what your explaining. I think I would slide the cylinder over the mandrel and then push the live center up against the top of cylinder. I have a machinist in the area that said he would help me when it's time. My friend at the shop just informed me that he has an old lathe he has stored inside and covered with oil that I can have with the tooling. I just hope it's not 3 phase. Doesn't hurt to look.

Done correctly.....no problem.
I’ve seen folks use wood,aluminum,stainless, delrin and most anything for a mandrel......
Just watch how big a bite you take.
And 3 phase?????
A lot of stuff sells cheaper because of it.
And it can be overcome very easily and cheaply.

 

[Stihl 041S]

all of this advice is good. but the bottom line is how good are you? big dif between being a machinist and being a metal worker enthusiast. even if real good at it. if it was mine, and I speak from exp, both as an owner and operator... I would want a 13X40 manual engine lathe. or thereabouts. even new, they are affordable. but, as I say... it really all depends on you. and ur skills. I know a guy and he is a retired Master Machinist... he has an older, smaller lathe in his basement. there is little he cannot do with it, other than unless swing related. but he has the knowledge, skills, education and... the experience. of course, think of ur customers, too. can you provide reworked cylinders of the highest quality?

in any event, I think this is an interesting thread. will follow to see what u decide upon. if u see a used lathe with metal brite ways... smile upon it. prob well taken care of. if rusty, dusty and musty... don't mean it hasn't, but does mean it needs some servicing. if you are not a machinist... perhaps consider becoming friends with one and/or a tool n die maker type. there are many of both in larger metro areas. and often, they work and may not have a personal machine shop. maybe couple tools. if u have a good lathe, they might help u with the set up in exchange for some machine time.

but, if u have never owned a lathe... YOU MUST DO THIS!:

never!, ever!... turn it on with the chuck key handle still in the chuck! it happens. so, always say to yourself before engaging the power; elec. ON/OFF handle... now where is the T handle? ask couple times! tossed handle can kill you! and never... be careless with your clothing. even a loose T-shirt is dangerous. I saw a guy get wrapped up in a T-shirt with another revolving shop tool. it happens. don't let it happen to you! it will be instantaneously disruptive to you!

safety first!

my 13 x 40 engine lathe
View attachment 693779 View attachment 693780 View attachment 693781

Nice machine. And a great size. Large enough for bigger projects and not so big that you have to use a secondary chuck to snuggle up to get fussy with something small.

And how many times have you seen someone selling their first lathe to get a bigger one.

 

[logger450]

View attachment 693794
Done correctly.....no problem.
I’ve seen folks use wood,aluminum,stainless, delrin and most anything for a mandrel......
Just watch how big a bite you take.
And 3 phase?????
A lot of stuff sells cheaper because of it.
And it can be overcome very easily and cheaply.

What the heck are you making out of that chunk of metal.lol

 

[logger450]

all of this advice is good. but the bottom line is how good are you? big dif between being a machinist and being a metal worker enthusiast. even if real good at it. if it was mine, and I speak from exp, both as an owner and operator... I would want a 13X40 manual engine lathe. or thereabouts. even new, they are affordable. but, as I say... it really all depends on you. and ur skills. I know a guy and he is a retired Master Machinist... he has an older, smaller lathe in his basement. there is little he cannot do with it, other than unless swing related. but he has the knowledge, skills, education and... the experience. of course, think of ur customers, too. can you provide reworked cylinders of the highest quality?

in any event, I think this is an interesting thread. will follow to see what u decide upon. if u see a used lathe with metal brite ways... smile upon it. prob well taken care of. if rusty, dusty and musty... don't mean it hasn't, but does mean it needs some servicing. if you are not a machinist... perhaps consider becoming friends with one and/or a tool n die maker type. there are many of both in larger metro areas. and often, they work and may not have a personal machine shop. maybe couple tools. if u have a good lathe, they might help u with the set up in exchange for some machine time.

but, if u have never owned a lathe... YOU MUST DO THIS!:

never!, ever!... turn it on with the chuck key handle still in the chuck! it happens. so, always say to yourself before engaging the power; elec. ON/OFF handle... now where is the T handle? ask couple times! tossed handle can kill you! and never... be careless with your clothing. even a loose T-shirt is dangerous. I saw a guy get wrapped up in a T-shirt with another revolving shop tool. it happens. don't let it happen to you! it will be instantaneously disruptive to you!

safety first!

my 13 x 40 engine lathe
View attachment 693779 View attachment 693780 View attachment 693781

That's a nice looking setup

 

[Stihl 041S]

What the heck are you making out of that chunk of metal.lol

Not mine. Just an example.
I want a DS&G and I saw this one

But I do a lot of heavy cutting with the tailstock and a 3/8” grip on the other end. 400lbs + and a high pucker factor till you get used to it.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Nice machine. And a great size. Large enough for bigger projects and not so big that you have to use a secondary chuck to snuggle up to get fussy with something small. And how many times have you seen someone selling their first lathe to get a bigger one.

thanks, not too often.

actually, the few guys I have known that did get bigger, maybe for gunsmithing, rifle barrels, etc... they kept their smaller one.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

That's a nice looking setup

thanks! ~

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Not mine. Just an example.
I want a DS&G and I saw this one

But I do a lot of heavy cutting with the tailstock and a 3/8” grip on the other end. 400lbs + and a high pucker factor till you get used to it.

Amen, to that!

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

If you want a good machine.......get a Good, and I say GOOD, machine rebuilder to go along with you.....probably $75 an hour.
He can tell you what is wrong and what it will cost to fix it.
Great bargaining chip. And it is so hard to see the little things that are wrong and the owner may not know.
Many older machines there are NO repair parts.
Or pricey.
On one 12x30 I had it was $3500 for the head bearings......not counting installations.....20 years ago.
Buyer be where.
And skip CNC at first. There is so much to learn before you can make it worth it.
DON’T buy a big tooling package.
So much used and 80% of the package you won’t use or will replace.
Marshy.....PM when you get close......I know tooling.
And got some for ya.

041S's advice in money on! however, imo... any such rebuilder would have the ability to assist. such a guy knows what he is looking at. those guys don't come a dime a dozen. or even an exp machinist. he would know what to look for, too. u can do some initial scouting around yourself. just listen to the story of the seller. these kind of machines are not typically in the hands of scammers. and... nor do they typically, the seller, try to deceive. if there is a nick in the paint on the underside of the cabinet... chances r good he will point it out. be honest with the seller, for he can spot you a mile away with just one question. t*t for tat exchange, honesty... works well in these sorts of purchases/deals. resellers may let a lathe go cheap, but a one-owner who has taken care of it, usually will not. unless, its family... and an estate sale. some deals there, too. but far and wide, in between...

 

[Stihl 041S]

041S's advice in money on! however, imo... any such rebuilder would have the ability to assist. such a guy knows what he is looking at. those guys don't come a dime a dozen. or even an exp machinist. he would know what to look for, too. u can do some initial scouting around yourself. just listen to the story of the seller. these kind of machines are not typically in the hands of scammers. and... nor do they typically, the seller, try to deceive. if there is a nick in the paint on the underside of the cabinet... chances r good he will point it out. be honest with the seller, for he can spot you a mile away with just one question. t*t for tat exchange, honesty... works well in these sorts of purchases/deals. resellers may let a lathe go cheap, but a one-owner who has taken care of it, usually will not. unless, its family... and an estate sale. some deals there, too. but far and wide, in between...

That what I meant. But if this is your first lathe you may miss something
I’m looking at a Hendey and I’m takin a rebuilder along.
The owner may not know a fault.

 

[Stihl 041S]

Amen, to that!

I went from boring as small as .031 holes to 60 HP and a crane over every lathe.
Lol
Big change

 

[catbuster]

I see a lot of 3 phase talk without any explanation as how to get around it. As far a 3 phase... I have 480 3 phase in my shop. It’s awesome. Runs the two lathes, 9x42 and 10x46 Bridgeports, the shaper, surface grinder, Dynasty 280, Dynasty 400, Millermatic 350, CST 280 and Gold Star really well... But you don’t need it coming in the box to run a lathe. I would not run a welder off a workaround, but a mill or lathe is no problem. And good luck getting it in a residence from a power company.

If you need it for your garage/basement/barn/wherever you need it that isn’t an industrial shop you can simulate it with a variable frequency drive, or just take single to 3 phase with a rotary phase converter. They’re both good options. I’d take the rotaty for not being digital, but a VFD seems to be a more popular option currently due to it being simpler to install and maybe being cheaper.

 

[Stihl 041S]

thanks, not too often.

actually, the few guys I have known that did get bigger, maybe for gunsmithing, rifle barrels, etc... they kept their smaller one.

I meant on chainsaw forums.
Gun guys hoard. Lol
And machine a lot more things.

I mainly did wevolcer work so a smaller one did well.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

and look at the tools n tooling. what comes with the sale, if any at all. sitting in back of warehouse deal is one thing, but in personal shop with a Kennedy machinists tool box next to it, etc... is quite a different matter. such a tool box is designed to protect precision tooling, micrometers, gauges, indicators, etc. look at cutter bits. and on efray, too. plenty old-timers who wanted to take their lathes with them, did realize... and there are some nice packages for tools/cutters, etc... amazon, and ur local area tool houses. usually they have a free catalog. and its big n thick generally.

kennedy or similar, usually brown, vs red or blue...

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

I see a lot of 3 phase talk without any explanation as how to get around it. As far a 3 phase... I have 480 3 phase in my shop. It’s awesome. Runs the two lathes, 9x42 and 10x46 Bridgeports, the shaper, surface grinder, Dynasty 280, Dynasty 400, Millermatic 350, CST 280 and Gold Star really well... But you don’t need it coming in the box to run a lathe. I would not run a welder off a workaround, but a mill or lathe is no problem. And good luck getting it in a residence from a power company.

If you need it for your garage/basement/barn/wherever you need it that isn’t an industrial shop you can simulate it with a variable frequency drive, or just take single to 3 phase with a rotary phase converter. They’re both good options. I’d take the rotaty for not being digital, but a VFD seems to be a more popular option currently due to it being simpler to install and maybe being cheaper.

interesting.

personally, if I was buying another lathe it would be the same as to current. 220-v, single phase. very easy to wire in. usually, u have to, they don't come with a plug in like a toaster. lol. more phase is more efficient. 3 phase is actually more so an industrial level usage current. 20 lathes, 40 mills... etc and 3 shifts... or as catbuster has stated above. 3-phase is not your ave home-based machine shop current. unless maybe u got 20 220v washers/dryers. lol. besides, with 220-single phase, u can wire it up to run off the dryer plug. of course, hard wired is best. a lathe has to be ON/OFF, then engaged; a separate lever. they will work well as to amp loss etc even on short extension cords.

 

[Stihl 041S]

I see a lot of 3 phase talk without any explanation as how to get around it. As far a 3 phase... I have 480 3 phase in my shop. It’s awesome. Runs the two lathes, 9x42 and 10x46 Bridgeports, the shaper, surface grinder, Dynasty 280, Dynasty 400, Millermatic 350, CST 280 and Gold Star really well... But you don’t need it coming in the box to run a lathe. I would not run a welder off a workaround, but a mill or lathe is no problem. And good luck getting it in a residence from a power company.

If you need it for your garage/basement/barn/wherever you need it that isn’t an industrial shop you can simulate it with a variable frequency drive, or just take single to 3 phase with a rotary phase converter. They’re both good options. I’d take the rotaty for not being digital, but a VFD seems to be a more popular option currently due to it being simpler to install and maybe being cheaper.

Yeah. It’s eazy.
VFD
Rotary
A cheap buzz box it it’s just one little mill or lathe

 

[catbuster]

I would not run a toolroom (13x40 or thereabouts) sized lathe on single phase. It’s a significant amp draw, and when that sine wave goes through zero you run the risk of the machine stalling out. It may be okay for a small machine, but if you’re trying to take some serious cuts you need a current that never goes to zero. 3 phase is a whole lot smoother running as well, largely because it never goes to zero.

 

[Stihl 041S]

I would not run a toolroom (13x40 or thereabouts) sized lathe on single phase. It’s a significant amp draw, and when that sine wave goes through zero you run the risk of the machine stalling out. It may be okay for a small machine, but if you’re trying to take some serious cuts you need a current that never goes to zero. 3 phase is a whole lot smoother running as well, largely because it never goes to zero.

I mean most of the hobby work done here.
No heavy cuts there.
You lose 2/3? I think of your power
Then rotary or VFD.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Going for scrap, too big for the hobbyist.

 

[catbuster]

I mean most of the hobby work done here.
No heavy cuts there.
You lose 2/3? I think of your power
Then rotary or VFD.

None of that is directed at you, it was more to the fellow who mentioned he would wire a lathe to 220v single phase power. Three phase power is three times as much power on 1.5 times the current draw/number of wires. The other upside is much smoother running machines. Single phase will run the same power as three phase, it will just require three times the amp draw. Of course, with a rotary converter is will draw that much but it will have three phase power on the output that runs the machine better.

@pioneerguy600 -that’s a shame. That looks like a fairly solid Monarch that just needs a little love.