cutting stumps

[p575]

I have a stump in my backyard from a tree I took down last summer. It had about 5 main trunks coming out of the one, its probably about 2-3 feet diameter, its more of an oval not a circle.
At any rate, my issue is, my saw doesn't seem to want to cut this at all. I put it on a smaller piece of firewood I had and it went through it ok, the chain could have been a bit sharper, but it cut. Once I get more than 2-3 inches into the stump it quits cutting, unless I bear down on the saw with a lot of force. Even then, I'm getting more dust than chips out of it. Anybody have any ideas on what I can check? Saw is a MS390, 20 inch bar...

 

[turnkey4099]

I have a stump in my backyard from a tree I took down last summer. It had about 5 main trunks coming out of the one, its probably about 2-3 feet diameter, its more of an oval not a circle.
At any rate, my issue is, my saw doesn't seem to want to cut this at all. I put it on a smaller piece of firewood I had and it went through it ok, the chain could have been a bit sharper, but it cut. Once I get more than 2-3 inches into the stump it quits cutting, unless I bear down on the saw with a lot of force. Even then, I'm getting more dust than chips out of it. Anybody have any ideas on what I can check? Saw is a MS390, 20 inch bar...

IME (and I hav flush cut a bunch of stumps) your chain is trying to cut in circles. Resharp the chain and try to cut the stump where you aren't cutting dirt.

Harry K

 

[Beefie]

IME (and I hav flush cut a bunch of stumps) your chain is trying to cut in circles. Resharp the chain and try to cut the stump where you aren't cutting dirt.

Harry K

:agree2: sounds like it is time to sharpen the chain. Or if it is not close to a building put a steel ring around it and burn it out.


Beefie

 

[avalancher]

It also depends on the type of tree and when in the season it was cut.If the tree was cut in the winter, a lot of the sap may have pooled at the base.After the tree stump died off, some species can have that sap harden up like you have never seen,and is virtually impossible to cut with a chainsaw.Do you have a lot of pitch on the chain and bar?

 

[oscar4883]

Sharp semi-chisel chain is the way to go. Scrape the bark off around the cut line and excavate as necessary. Low stumping will get you into the nastiest part of the tree to cut. I flush a lot of stumps prior to grinding and often you will find pockets of dirt, rocks, etc., in a low stump cut. If your chain is sharp and the wood is clean at the start of the cut, try cutting slightly higher and see how that goes. Multi-stemmed species like maple, seem to be the worst for having pockets of junk in them.

 

[TMFARM 2009]

just drill holes and blast it out.. its funner anyhow..:yoyo:

 

[Whitespider]

I used to flush cut stumps... quit doing that because it's too damn hard on equipment. Usually lots of dirt, junk, grid and what-not close to the ground that quickly dulls the chain and it's hard on sprockets, guide bars... and me. I don't even cut trees off as close to the ground as I used to... I cut where it's comfortable for me. If the stump is gonna' be in a highly visible spot I try for a level cut and set a yard ornament on it

But you could try something I've done in the past...
First cut from the top down in several places, so you section the stump... than cut it off in sections rather than all at once.

 

[Mike PA]

Clean up around the stump and remove bark, if possible. Use a sharp semi-chisel chain. Watch your bar tip and keep it our of the dirt. Use wedges.

 

[msulandarch]

Try a stump grinder. http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/clap.gif

 

[fields_mj]

I've tried doing this before and got tired of ruining good chains because of dirt and rocks that I couldn't see. One of the reasons that you're having a hard time cutting is that you are essentually trying to run the nose of your bar through one huge twisted knarly knot. It's by far the hardest part of any tree, and you always end up cuttings on the end of the wood grain no matter what you do (like you're trying to mill a board). Over all, the entire event sucks.

From my limited experince, I would say that you have 2 reasonable optoions.

First option is to burn it out. You can use your saw to cut come of the wood out if you want, or make some grooves that can be used to retain used motor oil, kerocene, or diesel fuel, all of which will eventually soak into the wood and MAY help it burn faster. I generaally flush cut the stump, and leave it for a year or two so that it will dry out some, then burn it. Get a good fire going on top of it. Us a bag of charcoal if you want. If you can, take a fan out and let it blow on the stump as it burns. It will sound like a jet engine, and it speeds the process up a fair amount. If you're going to cook over the fire (hotdogs, beans, or what ever) then I would skip the motor oil and such. After the first burn, which could last a few days or even a week depending on the stump and how long you countinue to feed the fire, you may need to dig out a little bit around the base of the tree to expose more of the roots, and then do another burn.

Second option is to rent a stump grinder. It does a MUCH better job, but I'm to cheap to spend the money. Dad rented one last year to remove the stump from a hard maple that 48" at some parts of the base. Took him about 8 hours total, and I think he hauled away 3 truck loads of saw dust. Now he has a flower bed there while the roots rot down over the next few years.

Either way you go, remember that in a few years, the roots that are left behind will rot down. If it's in your yard, that means you're going to have a hole form in your yard, and after hitting that hole with one of the wheels on your lawn mower (tractor) for a few weeks in a row, you'll start talking about it like it was your mother in law....

Just my 2 bits,
Mark