Cylinder installation

[KMB]

I thought I'd read some posts lately about this, but couldn't find them in a search. Anyway...Stihl says to use oil on the needle cage bearing for the piston pin and to coat the cylinder before installing. I would guess 2-cycle oil...or will regular car oil work? I'll probably be in town this afternoon and was going to get some cheap 2-cycle oil for the install (for the 044), thought I'd ask about it first.

Kevin

 

[blsnelling]

You ought to use the same oil you'll be running in your premix.

 

[KMB]

You ought to use the same oil you'll be running in your premix.

Makes sense to me...the safest way I'd say.

BTW, I'ved browsed through some of your threads and pics of your work on your saws...nicely done! When it's done, my 044 won't look showroom clean like your stuff does, but it'll look respectable.

Kevin

 

[blsnelling]

Makes sense to me...the safest way I'd say.

BTW, I'ved browsed through some of your threads and pics of your work on your saws...nicely done! When it's done, my 044 won't look showroom clean like your stuff does, but it'll look respectable.

Kevin

Thanks. It doesn't need to look like new to run good. That's just me. Good luck on your installation.

 

[thomas72]

I do not know about the newer cylinders, but I always had to chamfer the ports when installing a new cylinder. A lot of them where never chamfered and would break the rings when put into use.

 

[blsnelling]

I do not know about the newer cylinders, but I always had to chamfer the ports when installing a new cylinder. A lot of them where never chamfered and would break the rings when put into use.

What brand of cylinders are you using? I've never had to chamfer a Stihl cylinder and have never broken a ring.

 

[Lakeside53]

yes.. don't touch the stihl ports!

 

[Dennis Cahoon]

yes.. don't touch the stihl ports!

Hahahahahaha!.....I widen mine. :monkey:

 

[blsnelling]

Hahahahahaha!.....I widen mine. :monkey:

I guess I do chamfer my ports:greenchainsaw:

 

[Jacob J.]

I do not know about the newer cylinders, but I always had to chamfer the ports when installing a new cylinder. A lot of them where never chamfered and would break the rings when put into use.

What brand and application are you referring to? I've never seen a new cylinder that needed the ports chamfered and many, many smaller two cycle engines (such as weedeaters) don't have chamfered ports simply because the bore isn't wide to cause a ring to bulge into any of the ports.

 

[thomas72]

I rebuilt a lot of the older Poulans; which models where related to the super 72 and sometimes the Poulan Pro 655. The ports had to be chamfered, as the rings would break on the exhaust port as they started to wear. Most newer saw cylinders are already chamfered, but sometimes a cylinder passes through that does not get chamfered. I used a diamond abrasive bit in a air end grinder to chamfer. Just because you have a new part does not mean it is a good part without problems, I always inspect parts before instillation.

 

[Lakeside53]

Hahahahahaha!.....I widen mine. :monkey:

lolol

 

[wanab]

they advise of the same oil as the mix is good stuff. you dont want incompatable oils on tight clearances causing a zero lube situation.

yes, lube the wristpin bearing and crank bearings too if new.


what i do is make sure the rings are lubed good in the grooves, any oil residue that comes from the rings i rub on to the piston.


do not lube your bore as it has been proven to promote glazing. the rest of the lube comes as soon as the engine fires from the premix.


peace!

 

[KMB]

they advise of the same oil as the mix is good stuff. you dont want incompatable oils on tight clearances causing a zero lube situation.

yes, lube the wristpin bearing and crank bearings too if new.


what i do is make sure the rings are lubed good in the grooves, any oil residue that comes from the rings i rub on to the piston.


do not lube your bore as it has been proven to promote glazing. the rest of the lube comes as soon as the engine fires from the premix.


peace!

In my 044 service manual it specfically says to "Lubricate the inside of the cylinder with oil..."

Kevin

 

[Lakeside53]

... and it will be fine...

 

[wanab]

... and it will be fine...

or glazed.

 

[blsnelling]

Explain to me how you're going to glaze a lined cylinder that's already basically glazed. This stuff's so hard you can't hardly cut it with a carbide bit! I take it you're not used to working with lined cylinders. And where's the logic in running a dry cylinder on initial startup? Then only to have it get coated by oil almost immediately? Makes absolutle no sense to me.

 

[harrygrey382]

In my 044 service manual it specfically says to "Lubricate the inside of the cylinder with oil..."

Kevin

I put my 056 back together with mix and some wd40-like stuff (yellow lid, orange liquid, stinks big time, got it in alaska). Then when it was all back together I got paranoid (sometime I used that wd-40-stuff on a model stirling engine i made and it turned to glue - I remembered), took it apart when I got home (where I had Stihl 2-stroke oil), cleaned the crankcase, piston, bearings with mix, put a film of oil on most things (piston, rings, small end bearing). When back together, took a bit of pulling then fired up with a CLOUD of white smoke. All running like a beauty now though, and it starts 3 pulls when cold, 1 when warm...

 

[oldbigred]

Ok so I am rebuilding a saw too, with a new p/c, its a homelite sxl. So should I coat the bore or not? Why or why not?

 

[huskydave]

Yes. You can scratch the bore or cause some damage on the first startup if you don't. I always pour about a teaspoon or 2stroke oil in the cylinder before starting it and pull the saw over slowly before firing it up. It smokes a bit but That gaurantees the saw has the lubrication it needs.