Dang- why can't it be easy to fix?

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GeeVee

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My MS 270 C (20" B/C) locked up back in March. I kind of figured I roasted it and burned the top end, or worse, the bottom end bearings. I knew it wasn't raw gassed, but I have some hours on this machine without a single problem. It isn't rated as a pro saw, ya know?

I LIKE flippy caps and Mattel Chain Tensioning, it has worked well and without trouble on both counts.....
I had had the cltuch/brake drum and sprocket combo self un-weld itself while doing the take downs, but a new drum was cheap. Replaced the drum. Went back to work. Have a MS 170 and a Echo top handle 300 and of course Pedro, with my Brother and 18 YO Son. We had to drop, buck and move to drop buck and move more, and avoid damging the Wood Smoke Lounge Seven 24" Sweet Gum, a 36" Bass Wood ( the ONE I really wanted to get), four 16" Bass Wood, ten 16" Cabbage Palm.

Then during the rest of the work, it made a bad sound for a few seconds on run up tp WFO, like the bottom end was going to come out of it, (don't ask how I know this sound) but then would disappear, and then make the same sound when coming back from WFO to WHOA..... But, It always ran for that day or so-ish. But then, wanted to use it at home a few days later, and after firing it to warm it, then fuel and oil into it, Locked up. No pull-ee on rope-ee....

this episode that leads me to now.

I pull the recoil cover, and see FOUR things at once..... There is a machine screw embedded in the recoil cover plastic vanes (they help seal and create airflow, right?). The flywheel has a perfect notch on the end of the metal vanes, all except one, its kind of, mostly, MISSING? And i wonder where the metal from the vanes went? I have to imagine they are out at the ranch where they managed to part company with the rest at a high rate of speed, yet somehow didn't shred the recoil cover or actually hit me. The missing piece is so big, I can't believe it made it through the recoil cover "screen" thats molded in, but we'll call the missing piece Houdini. (Amazing if it made it through the recoil cover, it didn't become a part of the metal I have in me thats surgical steel left inside on purpose) AND- then I notice a machine screw that looks like its backed out (of its logical and intended place) and been rubbing the bottom or side edge of the flywheel. Naturally you've seen this movie, the last observation is the recessed part of the saw that probably ought to have a machine screw for a bed partner.....

I put a socket on the flywheel nutty thing, and turned it, didn't care which direction ,and it broke free, the piston, I guess. But now I think the Houdini piece could well be somewhere under this flywheel or nearby, right? I don't have all the covers off yet.... it makes some noise, but has good compression, I think. the fins are sharp so I wasn't pissing with that much.

Unfortunately, the escaping machine screw goes back in its place and tightens down. The other machine screw thats loose? Appears broken part way down its measely one inch length. It may have bad thread, but it aint wanting to start down, and it won't back out as its trapped by the flywheel.

I know I have to pull the flywheel. Which direction? Other than off.... I have an impact but doubt thats smart. I am not worried about damaging the flywheel since its toast.

I like the saw, alot. I doubt it is going to be cost effective to hand it to a shop, cause I think its got a broken bolt, but it probably is a serviceable saw. I am lame when it comes to taking this saw apart and putting it back together, but dang.... I like the saw.

I think I overheated the saw, ultimately, and the machine screws backed off. I don't think its toast, but I want to fix it. I don't really need it hot rodded, its been very reliable, if a little under maintained, it did lots.

So, Which way should I back off the Flywheel bolt, before I go He-Man on it?

Pics coming, but I'm kind of challenged.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2584821460069541497ttogaO?vhost=outdoors

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to pull the flywheel:

remove spark plug

stick something in the cylinder to work as a piston stop (pullcord or close line works good)

turn the nut for the flywheel left (flywheel is standard thread while cluch is reverse)

once nut is loose, leaving the nut partially on, hold the saw in the air by holding onto the flywheel and tap the nut with a hammer until it breaks free, nice "firm" quick hits. kinda challanging if you have hand bigger then a 4 yr old...
 
Got the flywheel off, thanks. Must have new one obviously.

Under the flywheel is three machine screws, two of which were out or loose. The loose one is not broken, but the screw will not engage. I think I will try and chase the thread with a tap, and (try to ) put them back in with some red or blue locktite.
 

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