Dead Ash Felling Paranoia

[SAWZ]

Maybe I'm just paranoid but I cannot seem to bring myself to fell with less than a MS460. I was doing a woodlot neighbor a favor by felling his dead ash trees for him to cut into firewood once landed. Most 20-28" diameter most with dead tops. I was trying to get some more time on a lesser saw JD CS-62 because it was easier to pack around the mountain side. However I always wind up with the MS 460 to get the job done especially on the bigger ones. I'm not used to felling dead topped trees and I just have this paranoia, maybe unfounded, to get these trees down with the fastest most efficent saw I can use. So far I've been lucky no close ones. I guess I'm wondering hardwood fellers opinions, is this constant nagging decision to use the fastest saw justified?

 

[smokinj]

Yep I Dont:agree2: mind carrying a few extra pounds for the right saw

 

[clearance]

It feels good, so use it. Its a good saw. Now do not fall snags in a hurry, do not. Take your time, make escape routes, concentrate on your cuts, and look up all the time. A little fear keeps us alive.

 

[GASoline71]

Dead trees, snags are a widow maker nightmare... Like clearance said... look up while cuttin'... a lot... and if ya gotta bang wedges... more chance for death from above.

Don't forget your hardhat...

Gary

 

[Flintknapper]

I agree completely, take enough saw!

It never hurts to have plenty of saw to "power through" your back cut just in case things get "squirrelly".

Example: Alot of the Sweet Gum trees and Post Oaks around here have a hollow or (Dody) center (maybe small, maybe large).

You might not know this from just making your face cut, but when you go to fell the tree (back cut) the tree base will often split off and shoot backwards unless you can rapidly cut to your hinge and let it fall.

With an underpowered saw....this could put you in a bad situation...even though you are off to the side. At the very least...it leaves a split trunk that is under pressure (not fun to deal with).

Maybe Ash doesn't fit into that scenario...but I can't see where having "too much saw" would cause a problem in your case...except it's heavy.

 

[056kid]

Maybe I'm just paranoid but I cannot seem to bring myself to fell with less than a MS460. I was doing a woodlot neighbor a favor by felling his dead ash trees for him to cut into firewood once landed. Most 20-28" diameter most with dead tops. I was trying to get some more time on a lesser saw JD CS-62 because it was easier to pack around the mountain side. However I always wind up with the MS 460 to get the job done especially on the bigger ones. I'm not used to felling dead topped trees and I just have this paranoia, maybe unfounded, to get these trees down with the fastest most efficent saw I can use. So far I've been lucky no close ones. I guess I'm wondering hardwood fellers opinions, is this constant nagging decision to use the fastest saw justified?

honestly, if you are escared, dont do it.


Relying on the saw or should I say putting faith in the saw is not the right answer.

you need the trust in YOU!!

post up some pictures so we can see the trees.

 

[SAWZ]

Sorry can't provide photos Amish landowner no pictures on his property. I probably would nuts it up anyway. But I appreciate the input. I'm not scared just cautious been logging hardwoods for my father for > 20yrs most saw logs. I do not routinely deal with dead topped trees especially with my personal saws. I usually use my provided MS660. Sometimes use 460 or 044. I do wear PPE and look up more than most.

 

[afblue]

Sorry can't provide photos Amish landowner no pictures on his property. I probably would nuts it up anyway. But I appreciate the input. I'm not scared just cautious been logging hardwoods for my father for > 20yrs most saw logs. I do not routinely deal with dead topped trees especially with my personal saws. I usually use my provided MS660. Sometimes use 460 or 044. I do wear PPE and look up more than most.

Ahh yes the Amish. Cant use a camera, but will let you use a high powered chain saw to cut down trees. haha My dads land is in Amish country, and they will actually run the saw for a logging companies, but they are not allowed to "own them or for personal use"

 

[Justsaws]

Maybe I'm just paranoid ...
I guess I'm wondering hardwood fellers opinions, is this constant nagging decision to use the fastest saw justified?

Yes, minimize the amount of time spent standing under dead trees. Cut high enough on the stump that you can easily look up without having to re-position yourself.

 

[bitzer]

I cut alot of dead trees and like the others said look up alot. I would also use a humboldt on them because the tree will throw its branches further away from you than with a conventional. Also on the retreat don't turn your back look at the tree and what is coming out of it. If your not looking, you can't see it coming. More saw = better if you are confident with it.

 

[056kid]

I would also use a humboldt on them because the tree will throw its branches further away from you than with a conventional.=

how do you figure that??

 

[bitzer]

how do you figure that??

Stem slides off the stump and jumps away. The stem often hits the ground first and the forward momentum throws dead branches away. In a conventional the stem falls forward and then off the stump but with little jump and it gives the crown time to catch up so the tree hits the ground more evenly. There is less of a jump and forward momentum with a conventional.

 

[056kid]

Stem slides off the stump and jumps away. The stem often hits the ground first and the forward momentum throws dead branches away. In a conventional the stem falls forward and then off the stump but with little jump and it gives the crown time to catch up so the tree hits the ground more evenly. There is less of a jump and forward momentum with a conventional.

By the time the face is commited, the tree is no longer above you,

the time when you need to watch is when you first start getting lift.

thats when your gonna get slammed, how do i know??

btw, its easy to manipulate a humboldt into gently sliding the butt right onto the deck without too much throw..

 

[dingeryote]

I ain't a pro, but have noticed that with the dead standing stuff I drop, the junk starts falling from what appears to be vibration on the face, and then from everything on the back cut.

My theory is to get the thing going on it's way, with as little time in the impact are of the junk as possible. Hanging around and buzzing the crap outta the dead tree is just asking for a terminal headache.

Big dead canopys from EAB ain't appealing. I'll wait till a few windstorms work 'em over, and even then pass on those that give me the creeps.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[madhatte]

minimize the amount of time spent standing under dead trees. Cut high enough on the stump that you can easily look up without having to re-position yourself.

Yes. That.

(especially if they're on fire)

 

[day52]

Good advice given above. One other thing that concerns me is certain types of ash have a tendency to split easily and that can make for some hair raising experiences. I had one that even though I took my time and thought I had a good notch--did a slight twist and broke off about 8-10' high. Upon hitting the ground, it shot backwards about 6-7'. I was lucky enough to be about 15' away by then, but it still was an eye opener for me.

 

[DougNH]

That's not paranoia, that's called being smart!

I don't cut snags alone, and use my 365 which is the smoothest saw I own. It's no slouch for speed, not as fast as the Univent (which is in the same class as a 460), but I'm very comfortable using it. Use my good hardhat. Like other said, look up a lot, especially if driving wedges. Dead ash = lots of widowmakers, but great firewood if it's not too punky.

 

[SawTroll]

It feels good, so use it. Its a good saw. Now do not fall snags in a hurry, do not. Take your time, make escape routes, concentrate on your cuts, and look up all the time. A little fear keeps us alive.

:agree2:

A hard-hat may be in order as well, just in case.....

 

[ehgauss]

I don't try to drop standing dead ash anymore since I had one break in half about 30 feet up and the top half folded back toward me. I was able to pick 'em up and put 'em down enough to avoid about a face-cord of firewood coming at me in a single chunk. Would've squashed me flat. I have one (about 18" dbh) standing right now that I just go past leaving the chainsaw in the trailer. Ash seems to get dozey through pretty quickly when they're standing dead. Nature will take care of it sooner or later. If you're bound and determined to be that good a neighbor, wear a hard hat, keep looking up and wear your safety running shoes. If you have to run, drop the saw - you're a lot faster unencumbered.

 

[bitzer]

By the time the face is commited, the tree is no longer above you,

the time when you need to watch is when you first start getting lift.

thats when your gonna get slammed, how do i know??

btw, its easy to manipulate a humboldt into gently sliding the butt right onto the deck without too much throw..

The way i'm thinking is when its tipping forward the conventional doesn't move away from you until the face closes and then only slightly. On a humboldt you are sending the stem down a ramp with greater speed and momentum while keeping the crown in roughly the same place as when the face closed until the stem hits the ground several feet away from you. I'm talking about nearby tree branches grabbing dead branches out of the tree your felling and throwing them back at you. The forward momentum is not there in a conventional from what I have experienced. As far as manipulating a tree I think its a lot easier to do with humboldt, fast or slow, swinging it or whatever. Thats the way I have found best to do it. I don't doubt you and I know you know what you're talking about from reading your posts over the last few months. Thats just the way i've thought best.

If your felling them with no other trees around notch wouldn't matter much and like you said its when your first getting lift to watch out.