The saw looks bone stock, all oem marked parts. No port work on the cylinder.
The trashed crank is Stihl. The one I just bought is Stihl.
Did this MS 660 Crank Get Too Hot?
- Thread starter Threewood
- Start date
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The saw looks bone stock, all oem marked parts. No port work on the cylinder.
The trashed crank is Stihl. The one I just bought is Stihl.
Is the big end bearing crispy or in pieces? I’m curious to see it. I pulled a brand new short block apart from a dealer that had the same markings
I'll pull it today and let you know.
Sounds good.
I have both crank bearings off and there is some some noticable slop in both after cleaning with carb spray. But the bearings look intact and are not discolored. They will spin on my finger but I can feel roughness.
Now, the rod bearing is toast. I can see displaced metal between the rod and crank.
Those mains are toast as well.
Skavenger
ArboristSite Lurker
You still suck doesn't look to be anything to terrible.
It sure did explode. I’d say it coming apart was the last straw. Surprised there’s not more damage after seeing that
Loggers around here burn out MS 660's like they were Wild Things. So, they give up on them and buy MS 661's. Then they burn those out at about the same rate after paying $400 more. Somehow they don't complain about the 661 as much as the 660, even though they lost another $400 more. I guess money means nothing to a logger. Their next cold Lite beer means more to them.
D
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Do you use hylomar or any other sealant on your oil pump mounting screws?
This rebuild looks a lot like the one I restored last year. The original piston skirt slapped out chunks of the case while tearing itself apart. It runs fine today. I was able to get 154 psi. compression cold. It's a good project.
Never thought about any on the screws. I can easily take them out and seal if needed. I did wipe a thin layer of ultra grey on the case gasket.
Nice to be able to bring them back from the brink. I have never rebuilt one, only built up 2 new Hutzl kit saws.
I left the cylinder stock but I will check squish tomorrow as I used a stock metal gasket. It turns over smooth. Can't wait to see how it runs.
It is alive and it sounds great. Probably needs the H/L and idle adjusted but it runs strong. Set the coil gap, new NGK plug and it fired after a few pulls. I'm waiting on the chain cover I ordered so I'll adjust it once it is complete.
Hooray! And, I may try to match you one-on-one with a few Pics. But, I think you have me beaten. I had to do a little machining on the plastic cover that surrounds the clutch and chain brake spring. No big deal. I have a feeling your saw is going to run just as well as mine does.
When I was finished, I had very few parts left over from the original saw. Threewood, it's a great hobby. I am sure you will agree.
When I was finished, I had very few parts left over from the original saw. Threewood, it's a great hobby. I am sure you will agree.
And video. I pulled the limiter caps to adjust, removed the tabs and re-installed. I am not a pro saw tuner so let me know if it still needs work. It idles around 3250rpm, chain does not move. Low idle was set to high rpm minus 1/4, high was set to 13,000 +/- rpms
I'd turn the idle down to about 2800 and back the H screw out to about 12500.
Skavenger
ArboristSite Lurker
Nice rebuild. Fantastic saw.
