Didier splitters

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Here is the identifying information that is obvious:

View attachment 269409

It appears to be Model # CB-19 Code: 3F serial number:120Z27 or 120227 or 120727 I can't tell, it looks like both the 2 and the 7 were printed over top of one another which makes it look like a Z...

I don't know if this says anything about how old it is.
 
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U might get one cheaper . My uncle owns a small engine shop so I get my stuff at his price . I forget what I paid for mine . It works better than points.
 
I suppose you can quite worrying about them getting wet. I guess you wouldn't ever have to worry about something getting in between the points, or the condenser going bad. How many years are these electronic ignitions lasting on these units. Has anybody ever done a study? Have you ever had a set an EI die on you? Otherwise it sounds like a great idea. You don't ever need to pull the flywheel anymore, since there is no need to access anything. Is there anything dangerous to an EI? I'm a bit curious about how you hook them up. I see a couple of wires that come off it, I mean other then the spark plug wire-what do those hook into?
 
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One is the kill wire. I think the other one is a ground and one is the plug wire. There's nothing to it to install it just goes where the pick- up for the coil is now . Just make sure you clean the area on the flywheel where the magnets are. When you set the gap use a matchbook it's makes the gap just right.
 
I think I found one on amazon. The description says:

BRAND NEW IGNITION COIL FITS Briggs & Stratton 100200, 100900, and 130200-132900 models Fits Briggs & Stratton OEM P/N: 697037, 397358, 395491, and 298316 Fits John Deere: PT10998 Fits Stens P/N: 460-030 Fits Oregon P/N: 33-340

Looking in my manual it says the model number of the B&S engine is 130202 - Type 0801, and looking at the part numbers in the manual it points out that the part number of the OEM coil is BS 298316. I entered 2983116 into Amazons search field and it gives me a series of coils, and this one is only 27$ with shipping, it is my best guess. It doesn't say it is solid state or electronic ignition in the title, but farther down it says
"Fits 5 HP engines with electronic ignitions " and later on someone complained is a comment that
"ign coil would have worked had there been instructions that say the part you are about to put on will replace a point system if you do not put the wires on for the pionts this will eliminate the pionts and make it a solid state ingnition " Given these two things I'm pretty sure it's what I'm looking for. Now I need to ask myself, this is the cost of 1/4 of a new engine...is it worth it given the state of the rest of the engine and it's age.
 
Gravedigger said:
The best thing you could do is replace the motor with a Harbor Freight 6.5 hp which can be found in sale for $99. Its been real reliable. Had to replace carb due to bad fuel issues for $14 shipped. It was much easier to put the new carb on than rebuild the one that came with it. Parts are very easy to get.
Click to expand...

How hard was this to connect up to a wood-splitter? Is the shaft going to be at the right height? 6.5HP is better then 5...what did you hook yours up to....?
 
DBNewlon said:
Now I need to ask myself, this is the cost of 1/4 of a new engine...is it worth it given the state of the rest of the engine and it's age.
Click to expand...

Personally I tend to not try to put band-aids on an engine that old. When I bought my Didier someone had already replaced the engine with a newer B&S 6.75 engine. I would just replace the motor if I was in your situation. Who's to say something else won't go or already be wrong with it?
 
I agree with Cigarman, I would change the motor,I replaced mine 2 yrs ago with a 6.5 up Tecumseh that I already had. My Briggs was a pain in the butt because the previous owner took part of it and it had no governer which make it a pain when the splitter got a load on it. I would have went with HF motor but I already had the motor I used. I wouldn't invests 35.00 dollars in a motor that out when a new one costs 100.00
 
DBNewlon said:
How hard was this to connect up to a wood-splitter? Is the shaft going to be at the right height? 6.5HP is better then 5...what did you hook yours up to....?
Click to expand...

my brother did it and pretty much matched up but having to drill New holes to bolt down the motor. He is not the most mechanical included person. I loaned the splitter to him for several years and it came back with a new motor.
 
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DBNewlon said:
How hard was this to connect up to a wood-splitter? Is the shaft going to be at the right height? 6.5HP is better then 5...what did you hook yours up to....?
Click to expand...

In my case, I swapped a tired 5HP Briggs for a new 212cc from Harbor Freight. It was a direct bolt on. I have always fixed these old motors, but this one was a mess and for $99 I couldn't resist putting a modern OHC engine on there. Well worth it for these Didier splitters, they have the mechanicals to run for many more years.
 
Done deal

You talked me into it. The 212CC was on sale at HF for $119 (normally) $179 and I printed off a 20% discount coupon which they honored in Grand Rapids yesterday and that made it 95.99 and then I used some thank you points and got another $10 off it with my CITI mastercard, looks like a fairly nice engine for $85. It's setting in my shop now, I'm just waiting for it to quit snowing out there and I'll get my son to help me push it into my shop and start changing the engine. I spoke with my Mom about it yesterday and she says Dad bought this Didier in 1972 and it was well used when he got it! That makes that B&S engine more then 40 years old, pretty amazin? I'll probably hold onto it as a spare if it can ever get it working...

Is there anything you do special for a new engine like this before you fire it up? I mean other then add oil and gas....
 
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Awesome price!

Nothing special on startup. Make sure there's oil in it, feed it some gas, and off it'll go. There is a break-in procedure in the manual, it basically says light loads for the first 3 hours. Our splitters are not a heavy load for these engines.

I just bought another one of those engines for a snowblower that threw a rod. It's re-engined and ready for the snow that is falling right now.
 
I connected it today, that was easy. Loosen the set screw on the spline, remove four engine mount bolts, put spline on new engine, hardest part was getting it off the 40 year old engine. Put new engine in place, adjust spline distance from engine and bolt down engine. Add oil and gas and off it goes on second pull. Wow that took less than an hour. The engine hardly strains on the largest logs. I bet I wasn't getting a full five hp out of that forty year old engine, now I'm getting a full 7 out of this new one. Can't wait now to spend three hours splitting up oak on Monday!! I'll be curious to see how it does on the tough ones....I'll post some pictures of the converted didier with the new predator engine.
 
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DBNewlon said:
I connected it today, that was easy. Loosen the set screw on the spline, remove four engine mount bolts, put spline on new engine, hardest part was getting it off the 40 year old engine. Put new engine in place, adjust spline distance from engine and bolt down engine. Add oil and gas and off it goes on second pull. Wow that took less than an hour. The engine hardly strains on the largest logs. I bet I wasn't getting a full five hp out of that forty year old engine, now I'm getting a full 7 out of this new one. Can't wait now to spend three hours splitting up oak on Monday!! I'll be curious to see how it does on the tough ones....I'll post some pictures of the converted didier with the new predator engine.
Click to expand...

Glad everything went easy.
 
Thanks for the good advice guys, I really appreciate it. It went through a cord of oak with little effort yesterday. I drained the oil, put new synthetic oil in it and conditioned the gas with ethanol gas treatment, covered it with a tarp and stored it under my elevated deck until next I need it. On Saturday I found a free source of wood I hadn't even thought about...a friend of mine that owns a land-scape company says he thinks he can keep me in wood with the trees he cleans up from customers yards. He said he has been looking for someone who would make good use of it. Looks like I'll have lots of activity for the Didier-Predator this summer!
 
Pump stalls

Sometimes after running the machine for a while I notice the ram will hit a stick of wood, the engine sounds does not change and the ram does not push the wood thru the wedge. I can pull the ram back a little and hit it again a time or two and it will eventually break right thru it.

I see in the manual it says adjust the sequence valve. I'm not sure where or what this is, if its on the control valve or on the pump.
I am suspecting my old pump needs replaced.

I just replaced the engine with an almost new B&S 5hp engine. The engine does not lug down, but the ram just doesn't always push the wood thru the wedge. I am not suspecting the engine, since it is producing plenty of power.

So what do I adjust, where is it, or do I need to replace the pump. I see in Northern Tool they are $139 for a 11gpm pump.
Thanks for the help guys.
Dave R in SW Missouri
 
Stalling pump

Any chance your hydraulic fluid is low? Maybe the pump is sucking air.

The fluid is right where it belongs. I first thought it might be the cylinder with blowby inside it, there is no leaking around the rod in the cylinder. Kinda' don't know which one it is.
Dave
 

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