Disappointed with performance of Husqvarna 136

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cdBuckeye

New Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
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Location
Ohio, USA
Hi,

I'm new to ArboristSite.com. I've "lurked" here several times in the past few years.

I would definitely consider myself to be an occasional saw user, because I typically only use my saws about 6 or 7 times per year. My sawing activites include cutting firewood for my woodburning stove and clearing deadfall/storm damage from the edges of my folks' fields. They own a small (35 acres planted) grain farm.

As far as saws, I am pretty much a Stihl man, since I grew up with my grandfather's 015AV. I inherited that saw, but decided to shelve it for a while, since I don't currently have the time to perform a plethora of small repairs on it. The recoil starter rope and chain adjuster are broken, the gas tank leaks, etc.

My current "big saw" is an MS310 with a 20" bar. I really like it, other than that weird master control lever. Give me "real" controls, please.

A couple of years ago, I wanted to purchase an MS250 to replace the old 015AV. Instead, I purchased a new-old-stock Husky 136 from a saw shop that was close to where I lived at the time, because it was about 40% less than the MS250. I figured that I could live with less power, given the money savings.

I do not expect my Husky 136 "little saw" to be a speed demon, but its peformance is lackluster, even compared to my old 015AV. I took it back to the shop where I purchased it, and they tuned it, which helped some. Even with a brand new chain, the saw never gets to what I call the "sweet spot," where the saw cuts and sounds good. I adjust throttle and rate of feed to find the "sweet spot" during each cut. It is easy to find the "sweet spot" with my MS310.

To be fair to the little Husky, it does have some redeeming qualities. The operating controls are fantastic, it starts easily, and it has good balance.

My concern with the 136's performance lies with the whole "sweet spot" issue. I do not expect a "little saw" to speed through a 10 or 12" piece of hardwood, like it was nothing. I do expect to be able to find a "sweet spot," where the little saw motors along fine, during the cut. Every time I use the saw, I feel like I'm abusing the poor thing.

And yes, I've thought of simply purchasing a 16" bar and chain for my MS310, but I frequently have both saws going at the same time, since I usually cut firewood in a 2-3 person team.

The drive sprocket, on the clutch drum, is just about worn out. The 136 has a 16" bar on it and a 3/8" chain. I'm assuming that this is a 3/8" low profile chain?

What can I do to improve the performance of my 136? Is there something I should do or check before I start experimenting with different bars, drive sprokets, and chains?

Would a stihl picco micro chain from my 015AV work on the husky? I still have a couple of those chains in my storage unit. They are both 0.050" pitch. I realize that I might have to slightly alter the length of the chain (55 vs. 56 drive links, IIRC).

Is there a narrow kerf setup I should try?

Should I use another 3/8" sprocket, or should I convert to a .325" setup?

Would going to a shorter guide bar help much?


My experience with chainsaw specific repair is limited to changing clutch drums on my 015AV. However, I am mechanically inclined. I've rebuilt several engines, large and small, restored an old Sears lawn tractor, worked in electrical/electronic field repair, and fixed many other types of household things.

Thank you in advance for your help!

I'll try to answer your questions the best I can. My stihl saws are in storage (100 miles away from me), right now, and I should get my husky back from my brother, this weekend.
 
Hi,

I'm new to ArboristSite.com. I've "lurked" here several times in the past few years.

I would definitely consider myself to be an occasional saw user, because I typically only use my saws about 6 or 7 times per year. My sawing activites include cutting firewood for my woodburning stove and clearing deadfall/storm damage from the edges of my folks' fields. They own a small (35 acres planted) grain farm.

As far as saws, I am pretty much a Stihl man, since I grew up with my grandfather's 015AV. I inherited that saw, but decided to shelve it for a while, since I don't currently have the time to perform a plethora of small repairs on it. The recoil starter rope and chain adjuster are broken, the gas tank leaks, etc.

My current "big saw" is an MS310 with a 20" bar. I really like it, other than that weird master control lever. Give me "real" controls, please.

A couple of years ago, I wanted to purchase an MS250 to replace the old 015AV. Instead, I purchased a new-old-stock Husky 136 from a saw shop that was close to where I lived at the time, because it was about 40% less than the MS250. I figured that I could live with less power, given the money savings.

I do not expect my Husky 136 "little saw" to be a speed demon, but its peformance is lackluster, even compared to my old 015AV. I took it back to the shop where I purchased it, and they tuned it, which helped some. Even with a brand new chain, the saw never gets to what I call the "sweet spot," where the saw cuts and sounds good. I adjust throttle and rate of feed to find the "sweet spot" during each cut. It is easy to find the "sweet spot" with my MS310.

To be fair to the little Husky, it does have some redeeming qualities. The operating controls are fantastic, it starts easily, and it has good balance.

My concern with the 136's performance lies with the whole "sweet spot" issue. I do not expect a "little saw" to speed through a 10 or 12" piece of hardwood, like it was nothing. I do expect to be able to find a "sweet spot," where the little saw motors along fine, during the cut. Every time I use the saw, I feel like I'm abusing the poor thing.

And yes, I've thought of simply purchasing a 16" bar and chain for my MS310, but I frequently have both saws going at the same time, since I usually cut firewood in a 2-3 person team.

The drive sprocket, on the clutch drum, is just about worn out. The 136 has a 16" bar on it and a 3/8" chain. I'm assuming that this is a 3/8" low profile chain?

What can I do to improve the performance of my 136? Is there something I should do or check before I start experimenting with different bars, drive sprokets, and chains?

Would a stihl picco micro chain from my 015AV work on the husky? I still have a couple of those chains in my storage unit. They are both 0.050" pitch. I realize that I might have to slightly alter the length of the chain (55 vs. 56 drive links, IIRC).

Is there a narrow kerf setup I should try?

Should I use another 3/8" sprocket, or should I convert to a .325" setup?

Would going to a shorter guide bar help much?


My experience with chainsaw specific repair is limited to changing clutch drums on my 015AV. However, I am mechanically inclined. I've rebuilt several engines, large and small, restored an old Sears lawn tractor, worked in electrical/electronic field repair, and fixed many other types of household things.

Thank you in advance for your help!

I'll try to answer your questions the best I can. My stihl saws are in storage (100 miles away from me), right now, and I should get my husky back from my brother, this weekend.

Sounds like you just need to tweek the carb to get that "it opens up and runs in the cut". If its set at too high Rpms it won't have much power under a load, or per say in the cut. If its set to rich it will load up and not run fast enuff in the cut to really open up and run like it should. Merely take your screwdriver with you the next time you go sawing with it and adjust it as you use it. You will find the sweet spot. Remember on a chainsaw a slight adjustment will make a big differance in how it runs in the cut so adjust a tad at a time till you find that sweet spot. It may be only a 1/8 of a turn away on the carb adjustment.
 
I'd go with carb adjustment, Also when was the last time the filter was changed.

the 136 came out in 1998 what year is yours.

Those narrow kerf set ups work wonders on smaller saws.

Try Baileys out for prices they are a sponser here on the site.

One more thing Huskys do not sound like the grunting Stihl you are used to.
 
open up the muffler, if I remember right it has the poulan basket and screen inside 86 it. I don't even know that it will be that much louder just more flow.
 
Sounds like you just need to tweek the carb to get that "it opens up and runs in the cut". If its set at too high Rpms it won't have much power under a load, or per say in the cut. If its set to rich it will load up and not run fast enuff in the cut to really open up and run like it should. Merely take your screwdriver with you the next time you go sawing with it and adjust it as you use it. You will find the sweet spot. Remember on a chainsaw a slight adjustment will make a big differance in how it runs in the cut so adjust a tad at a time till you find that sweet spot. It may be only a 1/8 of a turn away on the carb adjustment.

I would just add: I adjust the low speed jet first by finding the highest idle speed and then richen her back up a bit until the rev's slow a bit, then test it for response. You should be good to go from there with the high speed jet.
 
open up the muffler, if I remember right it has the poulan basket and screen inside 86 it. I don't even know that it will be that much louder just more flow.

couldn't hurt.

The 136 also has a crome plated bore.

IMO if you are going to mess around with adjusting the carb I would run 40:1 mix
 
With my 136, I found that just adjusting the mix screws fixed all glitches. However, here in New Zealand, we are lucky not to have adjuster lock-outs and the crappy oddball fuels you get. When it was set, 3 yrs ago, have never had a speck of trouble since. Run 30:1 Synthetic with stabiliser and thats it.
 
Remember we are talking about a 36cc homeowner saw so it shouldn’t be a screamer.
Anyway, sounds like you very much know what you are doing. We have a small MS170 at home and it has a 12inch bar with 3/8 picco micro or whatever the name of chain is.
16inch bar is quite much longer than 12” so there should be power to gain by going down in bar size. Acc. To a Husky spec I found on the 136, they recommend 0,325” and 13-15 inch bar length. Could be worth a try. 13” and 0,325. But try setting the carb first.
Good luck!
 
Sounds to me like you got a saw with all of the "Goodie" taken out of it. Try the carb jet adjustment, however, if that does not work, buy the Stihl. You get what you pay for. If the Husky was 40% less than the Stihl then there is probably a reason.
 
Sounds to me like you got a saw with all of the "Goodie" taken out of it. Try the carb jet adjustment, however, if that does not work, buy the Stihl. You get what you pay for. If the Husky was 40% less than the Stihl then there is probably a reason.

or just "real" husky aka, 340 -> ...

but it seems to me the biggest problem is that your running 3/8" chain on it, .325" is what its supposed to wear and 16" is too big for it, 13" is more suitable for given power...
 
or just "real" husky aka, 340 -> ...

but it seems to me the biggest problem is that your running 3/8" chain on it, .325" is what its supposed to wear and 16" is too big for it, 13" is more suitable for given power...

That 3/8" chain is probably lo-pro, .325 (even NK) need more power to cut better, not less....

If the chain is 91VG/H36, it might help performance a bit to change to 91VS or VX, or Stihl 63PM (not PM1 or PM3).

I agree with you on the bar lenght issue, but I don't believe the bar and chain is the main culprit here - carb adjustment probably is.

Is that saw still under warrency? If so, I'd take it back to the dealer, and demand that they fix it......
 
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Sounds to me like you got a saw with all of the "Goodie" taken out of it. Try the carb jet adjustment, however, if that does not work, buy the Stihl. You get what you pay for. If the Husky was 40% less than the Stihl then there is probably a reason.

You mean the 250? I would consider other saws ... (a 350 to be exact ;) )
 
these little saws are not the greatest, just an orange poulan. I wouldn't even worry about the warranty, especially if you got it cheap. Gut the muffler, you will be surprised at how much cr@p is in there, some of them just split apart and some you have to cut the crimp off with a grinder. I would still leave the screen in it. Also, break the the little blue stops off of the adjuster screws. Lose the restrictions and tune it out right and it will run allot better and you will be surprised at how much longer it will last. My poulan version is on its second bar and ? chain (probably a record for a disposable saw).

I bought mine to cut piss elm saplings in a 60' x 1.5' space between a house and a brick fence 3 years ago. The plan has been to save the nice saws from the dirty work, and to run it till it stops and throw it in the trash. I use it allot and treat it like a $20 whore. I don't think it has ever made it to the shed, just rolls around in the back of the truck.
 
Thank you very much for the warm welcome and practical advice!


To answer some of your questions:

The saw has a sticker on it that says 2004.
I purchased the saw in late 2005.

I am running 40:1 mix in the Husky.

I'll check the box that the current chain came in, but I believe that SawTroll is correct about what kind it is.

Yes, it is probably time for another air filter, I forgot to check it before I loaned it to my brother.

I'll start with a clean air filter and carb adjustments.

I can't believe that I didn't mention that the Husky136 is a 136LE. I did purchase the saw in Ohio.
LOL, I had a California Emission Suzuki quad that had a metal plug over the idle mix screw. :(

I'll let you know how it goes this weekend.
 
Hello,
I'm new to this site but I've been lurking for months. I've had a Husqvarna 136 for several years that I bought new as a starter saw for my son. I'm sure a 3/8" chain is to much for a 136. Mine has a 14" bar with a .325 chain and that is all it wants. Chain tension is super critical with this little saw, if its just alittle to tight you lose alot of cutting speed. Keep the chain razor sharpe also. I took the original anti-kick back chain off and got a semi-chisel and it really helped it cut faster. Set up right they are a great little disposable saw for light work .
 
Where are you at in Ohio? I put together a 36cc poulan out of scrap saws last year and it runs pretty good for what it is, would out cut a stihl 011av 41cc saw, but that still isn't saying much.
If you live close enough, I could take a look see for you, being I cut my teeth on them there poulans.
 
Hello,
I'm new to this site but I've been lurking for months. I've had a Husqvarna 136 for several years that I bought new as a starter saw for my son. I'm sure a 3/8" chain is to much for a 136. Mine has a 14" bar with a .325 chain and that is all it wants. Chain tension is super critical with this little saw, if its just alittle to tight you lose alot of cutting speed. Keep the chain razor sharpe also. I took the original anti-kick back chain off and got a semi-chisel and it really helped it cut faster. Set up right they are a great little disposable saw for light work .

Read post 12....

More power is needed for a .325, than for a 3/8" lo-pro.......

I wouldn't want a .325 on that saw, not even a NK one.
 
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