dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

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I have followed this thread since it began and debated on admitting my own "closet addiction" to the little Quakes. I started with a Ryobi 40 cc built with the Zenoah engine. Incredible little machine for the money. Built extremely well, light and strong. Even stronger with some very mild modification.

Next came a 40 cc PowerHorse that was originally sold by Northern Tool. Almost identical to the Ryobi on the outside, but much different on the inside. It was Chinese made and much of it copied from Zenoah/Redmax. The carb was fully adjustable and took a Walbro kit just like the Zenoah, but the engine was different. It had a virtually identical crankcase, but the intake and head design on the Zenoah was light years ahead of the PowerHorse. On the other hand, the PowerHorse held 200 psi BEFORE modification and ran very strong. Good anti-vibe, started, oiled, and ran well. It cut like a little monster with a good b/c.

Finally got the 41 cc Quake from ebay. Same place you guys have been getting them, but I bought the second one he sold. I actually bought it to use the clutch cover and chain brake on another Ryobi project, but when it arrived it looked brand new. 160 psi, a little sawdust, and a leaky fuel line. I repaired the fuel line in short order and it fired right up. Again, a virtually identical design to the Zenoah/Ryobi except the cylinder head and intake are much more advanced on the Zenoah.

Then I picked up one of the $35 Quakes in 38 cc. I have been equally surprised by it. Started and ran right out of the (original) box with no issues whatsoever. I ran a full tank through it yesterday with my Dad.

I have tore these down and checked them over. I am no expert, but they are made well enough in my opinion. The crankcase is very strong and still light. By having a metal crankcase attached to and part of the bar mount they have increased the strength of the unit significantly. The machining is a little sloppy here and there; if you take the cylinder off you should make sure the crankcase halves align well at the top where the cylinder attaches. I've noticed they're usually off by a few thousands. Nothing a thick gasket won't handle, but still worth correcting if you're that far in. The bearings and seals seem smooth and tight and the gas and oil tanks are easily accessed for filling. How well do they last? Only time will tell.

I used to buy a few Poulans to experiment with timing, porting, muffler mods and other stuff. The problem was very often the saw had been abused and some of the parts were broken or not working. These little things are almost (if not) brand new and show up at your door for $35!! I think I'll buy a couple more to play with.

Serious woodcutting? I'll grab my MS 361. Play time? Back up? Loaner saw? I'll reach for the Quaker.

dd
 
I have followed this thread since it began and debated on admitting my own "closet addiction" to the little Quakes. I started with a Ryobi 40 cc built with the Zenoah engine. Incredible little machine for the money. Built extremely well, light and strong. Even stronger with some very mild modification.

Next came a 40 cc PowerHorse that was originally sold by Northern Tool. Almost identical to the Ryobi on the outside, but much different on the inside. It was Chinese made and much of it copied from Zenoah/Redmax. The carb was fully adjustable and took a Walbro kit just like the Zenoah, but the engine was different. It had a virtually identical crankcase, but the intake and head design on the Zenoah was light years ahead of the PowerHorse. On the other hand, the PowerHorse held 200 psi BEFORE modification and ran very strong. Good anti-vibe, started, oiled, and ran well. It cut like a little monster with a good b/c.

Finally got the 41 cc Quake from ebay. Same place you guys have been getting them, but I bought the second one he sold. I actually bought it to use the clutch cover and chain brake on another Ryobi project, but when it arrived it looked brand new. 160 psi, a little sawdust, and a leaky fuel line. I repaired the fuel line in short order and it fired right up. Again, a virtually identical design to the Zenoah/Ryobi except the cylinder head and intake are much more advanced on the Zenoah.

Then I picked up one of the $35 Quakes in 38 cc. I have been equally surprised by it. Started and ran right out of the (original) box with no issues whatsoever. I ran a full tank through it yesterday with my Dad.

I have tore these down and checked them over. I am no expert, but they are made well enough in my opinion. The crankcase is very strong and still light. By having a metal crankcase attached to and part of the bar mount they have increased the strength of the unit significantly. The machining is a little sloppy here and there; if you take the cylinder off you should make sure the crankcase halves align well at the top where the cylinder attaches. I've noticed they're usually off by a few thousands. Nothing a thick gasket won't handle, but still worth correcting if you're that far in. The bearings and seals seem smooth and tight and the gas and oil tanks are easily accessed for filling. How well do they last? Only time will tell.

I used to buy a few Poulans to experiment with timing, porting, muffler mods and other stuff. The problem was very often the saw had been abused and some of the parts were broken or not working. These little things are almost (if not) brand new and show up at your door for $35!! I think I'll buy a couple more to play with.

Serious woodcutting? I'll grab my MS 361. Play time? Back up? Loaner saw? I'll reach for the Quaker.

dd

I too Have been watching this post from the beginning....all 15 pages of it. Just quietly sitting here observing, trying to learn, and wondering what next will happen to a quake. Around page 13 I thought, well maybe I should get one. I have been wanting to fool around with muffler modding. Finally last night I looked the guy up on ebay, and almost took the plunge.

The question is, should I just go ahead and buy one of the 38cc'ers or wait and hope that some more 42's will come out, and he doesn't run out of saws before I get one?

P.S.
I hate you all for keeping me interested in this post :chainsaw:

Dustin
 
I too Have been watching this post from the beginning....all 15 pages of it. Just quietly sitting here observing, trying to learn, and wondering what next will happen to a quake. Around page 13 I thought, well maybe I should get one. I have been wanting to fool around with muffler modding. Finally last night I looked the guy up on ebay, and almost took the plunge.

The question is, should I just go ahead and buy one of the 38cc'ers or wait and hope that some more 42's will come out, and he doesn't run out of saws before I get one?

P.S.
I hate you all for keeping me interested in this post :chainsaw:

Dustin

I was hesitant on the 38 cc since I already had 3 of the 40/41 cc versions. IMHO, there isn't much difference and I'm satisfied the 38 cc version delivers plenty of power for $35. That's less than $1 per cc!!:msp_w00t:
 
Maybe I am wrong but, these look like a 3800 red max. I saw b Snelling do a couple saw races wit the red max

They are very similar on the outside and some parts would probably interchange. The head design and intake are completely different. The little RedMax is supposed to be a real screamer when you open it up and do a little port work. I don't know for sure, just from watching videos on youtube and listening to guys on here.

The 38 cc Quake will certainly hold its own with any other similar sized saw. They are easy to work on and have an actual bolt on cylinder so they are easier to mod and raise the compression. With a little modification the ones I have experimented on have been snappy little saws. How long will they last? Dunno.
 
Welp, finally got to cut some wood with the Quake today. Got the 38cc one for $35 shipped.

As said in other post, this saw had never seen wood, only had some dust on it. Some fuel was in the lines, but no oil was ever put in the tank.

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Upon closer inspection, there does seem to be a small scratch on the piston, but strangely it didn't seem to transfer to the ring.

Air filter is surely no HD filter, but seems like it would work. Did take it off and put some grease around its seal.

Picture497_zps764c44a8.jpg
 
First of all was to remove the carb.

Picture513_zps4a4150ea.jpg


Then took a small pair of dental/surgical tweezers to remove the adjustment screws.

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After a little cutting with a hacksaw..

Picture514_zps0d085fbe.jpg


And here both are done, got off a little on the L, but works fine.

Picture516_zps6c5e5e43.jpg


Got it all buttoned up and put it to some wood.

Picture517_zps2b298bb2.jpg


Runs pretty well after some adjustment, still have it set a little rich, may have to lean it out a little. One complaint was that the starter handle seemed to always turn to block the adjustment holes.

Will make a nice little ATV saw or a limbing saw for around the yard. It runs well after some carb adjustment, but can really tell its choked up, but will work for what I want it to and it usually starts on the first or second pull.

Honestly, this is really all the saw I would ever need.... :)
 
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That air filter looks like it came off a redmax, or the ryobi clone I have. My Ryobi became my ATV saw.
 
$35 for a saw including shipping?!?

These saws cost at least $40 each from the manufacturer in china - per container load.
 
Since all uh ya'll "saw hoarders" are buying these,
I keep waiting to see the price of C'list saws drop.

and a tangential gripe: Am I the only person that hates
those offset recoil pull handles ??
I've always put the the rope between my middle and ring fingers
to crank anything.
 
take your dremel with a thin cutting disk and notch the ends,,, mine was already set for a flat tip screw driver

Had already given that some thought. I dont know if I can get in there with the casting but may give it a shot.
 
First of all was to remove the carb.


Got it all buttoned up and put it to some wood.

Runs pretty well after some adjustment, still have it set a little rich, may have to lean it out a little. One complaint was that the starter handle seemed to always turn to block the adjustment holes.

Will make a nice little ATV saw or a limbing saw for around the yard. It runs well after some carb adjustment, but can really tell its choked up, but will work for what I want it to and it usually starts on the first or second pull.

Honestly, this is really all the saw I would ever need.... :)

Looks good, I should be able to get the jets out. I was wondering if I could get in there with a small pair of needle nose or tweezers, now I know!
 
Bought 3 38cc quakes. Sold one on CL for $75. Got 2 paid for. I'm like a lot of you. I debating to buy some more. Earthquake made or makes rototillers and other small equipment. Guy I sold it to said he worked logging and said they had a couple of these saws years ago. Used them for limbing and said they beat the crap out of 'em and said they held up well.
 
Too bad they're not t-27 torx screws on the saw. I just bought one of them for stihl work. Now have to "get a set of torx drivers from Santa". The slotted works well and is nice they have both stamped into the screw head. I will have to look for small tweezers tomorrow to get the screws out.
 
Since all uh ya'll "saw hoarders" are buying these,
I keep waiting to see the price of C'list saws drop.

and a tangential gripe: Am I the only person that hates
those offset recoil pull handles ??
I've always put the the rope between my middle and ring fingers
to crank anything.

On that thought, sometimes this thing catches or hangs up when pulling it over. May have to investigate that one.

Does make me realize how much I like the Elastostart handles though.
 
I still can't believe how cheap those things sell for.

Hey man.....come over here....i got somethin for ya....all the cool kids are tryin it....

Get one you can only lose 35, but you gain a bar, chain, and scrench, and scabbard.
 

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