Do any professionals still do this?

[D&B Mack]

I use stihl bar oil during warmer months and motor oil in the winter. It can get pretty cold in pa and the bar oil (i feel) gets too thick and doesn't seem to lubricate the entire bar. plus, it is messy as hell in the cold.

 

[chainsawland]

I've seen guys use motor oil, transmission fluid, gear oil, hydraulic fluid and everything else under the sun.

Many also use Vegetable oil in electric saws that are used for cutting up Moose and Deere meat.

 

[ridgerunner97]

I use stihl bar oil during warmer months and motor oil in the winter. It can get pretty cold in pa and the bar oil (i feel) gets too thick and doesn't seem to lubricate the entire bar. plus, it is messy as hell in the cold.

Agreed, I run whatever is on sale Bar oil wise, be it Husqvarna, Stihl, Itasca, TSC brand I don't care, I mix it 40% Bar Oil, 60% SAE 30wt Motor Oil that is used, haven't had a problem, does the job, also runs easier in the winter.

NOW, in my older saws with Manual Oilers, I use nothing but SAE 30wt Motor Oil for bar oil. Ive found that the old oilers are hard to pump with the regular bar oil and the 30w is what was used back in the day so I still use it now.

 

[turnkey4099]

And for another take on it, stolen from the same thread:

"I think what most are missing is that the oil is not really used
to lubricate, it is used to wash out the junk. It is more like
greasing the pins and joints on backhoes and other equipment. The
lubrication is secondary at best, the prime goal is to force out
and keep out grit and contamination.

Used motor oil works."

Thus far, no one in tht thread has mentioned cost of new bar oil compared to new 30wt.

When I go out 'wooding' there are over $1000 worth of saws in the truck and a 1 gal container of (usually) Wal Mart bar oil (Poulan brand) at around $7 gal. I would never consider using used oil of any type but in a pinch would go for new motor oil.

For those mixing their own by adding 'tack stuff' to new motor oil: Why? What are you saving over just buying bar oil to begin with? I also don't buy the "oil to stiff in the cold" A few minutes running and that oil is heated up. Of course in brutally cold weather, thinning it out is a help when first starting to cut.

Harry K

 

[eyolf]

I have thinned oil in the past but anymore I don't go out when its too cold. I'm old enough to brag about having worked outside in 54 below...but it wasn't any fun. I draw the line at 20 below these days, and winter bar oil (mostly transhydrol or ATF as a base) works fine.

I used drain oil in a Homelite 330, because the tank and oil pump was plastic. I have a couple junk saws in the barn that were ruined with Diesel drainings; the sulfur and water vapor in blow-by makes acid that eats aluminum. Gas engines can form acids too, but not as strong and not as fast. The one caveat that I will admit to is used-air-compressor oil: the stuff has no acid and not a whole lot of dirt because the filters are supposedly as good as hydraulic filters. I have used that when I could get it free.

 

[Arrowhead]

Where did all the guys who use nothing but big name bar oil go?:jawdrop:


Mr. HE

They are gone..... spent too much on bar oil, can't afford internet now. LOL


I use whatever bar oil is on sale... I cut quite a bit, never prematurely wore a bar or chain.

 

[RandyMac]

They are gone..... spent too much on bar oil, can't afford internet now. LOL


I use whatever bar oil is on sale... I cut quite a bit, never prematurely wore a bar or chain.

LOL

I used what I was told to use, by people who knew what they were talking about. Keep in mind this was over 30 years ago and was used on long bars, not what is currently called a long bar, but the 48" to 72" standard old growth bars. The heavy sawchain that went with those long bars had a long service life. Maybe this is obsolete info, but go spend 20 minutes making one bucking cut in an 8 foot Fir and tell me I am wrong. Oh, I forgot, maybe ten people on this site have done so, you will have take my word on this.

 

[komatsuvarna]

I use the cheepest bar oil or 30 wt i can find. My cutting bubby has used used motor oil for years. works fine for him.

 

[Rudedog]

They are gone..... spent too much on bar oil, can't afford internet now. LOL


I use whatever bar oil is on sale... I cut quite a bit, never prematurely wore a bar or chain.

So is it safe to say just use what is affordable. That there is really very little difference in bar oils among manufacturers and that is an area worth saving money without losing quality?

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

LOL

I used what I was told to use, by people who knew what they were talking about. Keep in mind this was over 30 years ago and was used on long bars, not what is currently called a long bar, but the 48" to 72" standard old growth bars. The heavy sawchain that went with those long bars had a long service life. Maybe this is obsolete info, but go spend 20 minutes making one bucking cut in an 8 foot Fir and tell me I am wrong. Oh, I forgot, maybe ten people on this site have done so, you will have take my word on this.

That would be an experience! REP sent!

 

[DUGs-sawshop]

Just some tid bit info . I was pricing B&C oil last week at a New England bulk oil distributor. This is what I found. Has anyone else found these same details.
I found that 1 gallon jugs were $xxxx
Then 5 gallon pails were a few cents per gallon cheaper.
Then 55 gallon barrels were more per gallon that both above sizes!?
Bulk oil not available .

Seems funny that I can buy 1 gallon jugs cheaper than 55 gallon barrels on a per gallon price.

 

[Hddnis]

Just some tid bit info . I was pricing B&C oil last week at a New England bulk oil distributor. This is what I found. Has anyone else found these same details.
I found that 1 gallon jugs were $xxxx
Then 5 gallon pails were a few cents per gallon cheaper.
Then 55 gallon barrels were more per gallon that both above sizes!?
Bulk oil not available .

Seems funny that I can buy 1 gallon jugs cheaper than 55 gallon barrels on a per gallon price.

Is there a barrel deposit that is being included in the price maybe? If so you might get it back when you return the barrel.



Mr. HE

 

[Arrowhead]

So is it safe to say just use what is affordable. That there is really very little difference in bar oils among manufacturers and that is an area worth saving money without losing quality?

Thats exactly what I'm saying I do. I use the cheapest bar oil I can find. I can put a ton of hours on the bar and chain and see no more wear on it then oil double the price.

 

[Rudedog]

Thats exactly what I'm saying I do. I use the cheapest bar oil I can find. I can put a ton of hours on the bar and chain and see no more wear on it then oil double the price.

Thanks!

 

[Tac56]

I mixed my own, three cans STP in five gallons of 30W, a quart of diesel added when cutting pitchy wood.

I remember a outfit of California refugees in the late 60's cutting old growth hemlock, fir and ceder in the BC interior with Remingtons and Macs. They mixed up bar oil in a 15 gallon drum. Used oil from a donkey engine - that was probably mostly diesel anyway, a few cans of STP (Scientifically Treated Petroleum 0r Sticky Tappet Protector) to the uninitiated, and a few good piss streams of Lucky Lager brewed under license from the old Columbia Brewery in Creston. Maybe a little 30W on a really hot day for good measure. Never a problem. Regular purple gas and 30W for the 2 stroke mix also. Also vast quantities of Canadian Club and Johnny Walker to start and finish the day.
They lasted one season and maybe made enough money to go home.

Cheers

- Tac

 

[redprospector]

Years ago we used to use Cook's Re-Refined 30 wt motor oil & STP, but that was back when a quart of Cook's was less than 50 cents and buying it by the barrell was cheaper than that. I haven't seen any Cook's Re-Refined oil in years.
For several years I have just used cheap bar oil (Poulan), I shopped around and it's about the same cost as 30 wt. and STP, and somebody else mixes it for me.
I looked into barrells of oil and found the same thing DUG's-sawshop found. I can buy it cheaper by the gallon than by the barrell. Time's r changin' I guess.
Early on I had bad experiences with used motor oil. I will not use it in a saw, but I might burn it in the wood stove.

Andy

 

[ironman_gq]

I think the problems with motor oil start with the faster chains speeds of modern saws. the old saws didnt spin that fast so the oil didnt fling off everywhere and had an easier time reaching the end of the bar. With the fast saws of today the motor oil flings off before it can lube the tip and the nose sprocket runs dry as well as the rails not to mention the mess it can make. All in all the motor oil probably works fine but I really dont want to risk it not to mention bar oil tends to be cheaper than motor oil.

 

[MCW]

Thats exactly what I'm saying I do. I use the cheapest bar oil I can find. I can put a ton of hours on the bar and chain and see no more wear on it then oil double the price.

I agree 100%. In Australia Stihl bar oil is openly advertised on the packaging as being made by Castrol despite Castrol being more expensive depending on which Stihl dealer you go to (I have seen prices varying from AUD$90 to AUD$160 on 20 litres of Stihl B&C oil).
There is no major science involved in bar oil. The right viscosity and the right tackifiers generally do the job

The wrong oil (eg lightweight engine oil) shows up in hot conditions with very hard, dead woods and sustained hard use, or on longer bars where the saw's oiler is at it's limits.

 

[drogueman]

Bar oil

I think I have you all beat, when I was in the military ( Air Force) I was cleaning up a our maintenance hangar and found a 55 gal drum of jet engine synthetic turbine oil, this stuff was great for bar oil in the winter, it stayed thin and tacky for cold weather and I had no problems with wear. One day I went to refill my jugs and it was gone, guess the engine shop boys found there missing turbine oil, lol.