I just ran across an unopened bottle of Bardahl I bought in about 1985 or ‘86. If it looks like oil and smells like oil and tastes like oil I am going to use it in something, for sure.
holeycow!I just ran across an unopened bottle of Bardahl I bought in about 1985 or ‘86. If it looks like oil and smells like oil and tastes like oil I am going to use it in something, for sure.
Several years ago I learned stuff about 2/cycle oil from someone that actually knew about it. Up till then I THOUGHT I knew about it. This guy explained to me that the a 2/ cycle oil I use is supposed to be burned up with the gas. The OLD story was It didn't burn. Supposedly, the fuel burned leaving oil in the saw.holeycow!
I am an Amsoil dealer. Several years back, Amsoil released a bulletin about shelf life and storage.
The gist of it is, their oil has a shelf life of 5 years although most products last longer.
Keep out of direct sunlight, and temps of 35-85f are best.
It is also good to give the oil a shake if it had been sitting a long time to mix up any additives that may have settled.
By the way, I run Amsoil Saber 50:1 in all my 2 stroke equipment!
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Several years ago I learned stuff about 2/cycle oil from someone that actually knew about it. Up till then I THOUGHT I knew about it. This guy explained to me that the a 2/ cycle oil I use is supposed to be burned up with the gas. The OLD story was It didn't burn. Supposedly, the fuel burned leaving oil in the saw.
So I watched a demonstration.
Three types of oil were torched using a propane torch.
A teaspoon of each of type of oil subjected to the flame. Then the containers we're cooled and checked for residue.
The motor oil caught fire but didn't burn fast. It went out leaving some slick residue.
One type of 2/cycle oil was very old had turned black and just a tad difficult to burn but it did burn up clean.
The stuff I use caught afire easily and burned completely out. There was no residue visible. .
In other words nothing to foul a plug. None of the oil was mixed. Came straight out of the bottles.
I learned that the way mixed fuel works is it first goes into the crank case then into the cylinder and lubes before being burned. Strange how many illusions there are in the world. Oil, Politics, and Religion to name a few, but science can prove oil if we can admit we we're wrong. If you have doubts about the oil it's easy to feel and see if it's slick and grit free. Then Without adding anything to it pour a bit on metal be safe and torch it. If it meets that test then mix a half teaspoon with gas in a clear container and see if it mixed well. Let that sit a week and if it didn't separate you should be good to go. Have a great day.
Things to consider.
The piston and even the hard chrome/nikasil cylinder surfaces are porous. Some oil molecules are absorbed.
The oil does get burned during combustion, but even an 2500rpm it's being replaced more than 40 times a second.
Unless you're running the tank dry, your saw is gulping in fresh mix at least 10 more times between you hitting the kills switch and dead stop.
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