DR Rapid Fire Rack & Pinion

[nysparkie]

Yes - Pieces here and there.

There are two spots that I noticed something in:

First one, wood gets built up in the notch between the table and beam. After about 4 hours or so, there is enough it actually works its way back towards the ram. Sometimes it catches the ram at the end and makes it stick.

The second, wood fragments get retracted back into the return area of the ram. Sometimes this does not allow the ram to fully retract.

Both minor I know, just wanted to see if anyone else is coming up with the same thing.

I've had a piece of bark or splinter of wood stop the ram from fully returning wedging itself underneath the ram head. I also notice the build up of chips/stuff under the wedge.
Now I , now and then, just take time to sweep some of it away between logs...every 20? Or when I notice.
Haven't had an issue since. Still beats the broken teeth and soft steel problem they are attempting to correct on the Speedco TSC Splitter.

 

[nysparkie]

Lucky Dog

:agree2:

Nothing other than motor vibes and the slamming of the ram (which can move it around a good bit). Flywheels seem to be perfectly balanced.

I was admiring your electric start. Not that the pull start is hard by any means. Don't know if my wife can start it though.
I heard if it is a GEL Battery you have to be careful with freezing temps. Myself, I don't know if that is true or not.
I'm still a happy, glad I paid for it, DR RapidFire Splitter owner.

 

[mikereynolds]

I have been wanting a flywheel-type splitter for several years now and after reading the Speeco thread I DO NOT want made in china problems. I also considered the Logrite version using Paul's SS and a very cool highway trailer and even cooler capsian winch contraption. That is the one I really wanted but at a shade under $10,000 and another $900 to ship to the left coast, it was more than I could write a check for. So it was between the SS and the DR. After reading all 18 pages of this thread, and I finally pulled the trigger on the DR yesterday. What put the DR in the winners' circle was the 3-year warranty, 1-year trial period and how well they regarded the SS. I didn't order the table as I will be building a very large perminent work station similar to the Logrite unit where I can shuttle a log onto the table with the Bobcat, buck it without bending, split the rounds into firewood then onto a conveyor and into the dump truck. I only want to handel it once and gedd'er done fast so I can get back to this laptop in front of my wood stove and see what you-alls is up to next! Downside...15 working days till the big truck gets here!

 

[KiwiBro]

The DR rack head stops

Are the stops metal or rubber? Is there any 'bounce' when the rack head hits the stops? If there is, does this bounce then make it easier to engage the rack and pinion for the next split if you get your timing right (b/c the rack is slightly moving in the right direction helping it to mesh better with the pinion)? Granted, you'd have to be quick moving the wood into position but I was just wondering if that would help take some load off the rack/pinion teeth and engagement rod.

How many bearings are there under the top flange of the beam to keep the rack head running smooth and true? The SS has two each side. I asked DR about this earlier in the thread and didn't really understand their answer.

Have you guys had any problems sliding re-splits back over the cradel without actually lifting them or do you struggle with the bigger re-splits and/or actually have to lift 'em back into position? I ask b/c that could get tiring by the end of a long day of bigish wood, surely?

That 1 year right of return is cool.

 

[D&B Mack]

Are the stops metal or rubber?

Rubber

Is there any 'bounce' when the rack head hits the stops?

Yes

If there is, does this bounce then make it easier to engage the rack and pinion for the next split if you get your timing right (b/c the rack is slightly moving in the right direction helping it to mesh better with the pinion)? Granted, you'd have to be quick moving the wood into position but I was just wondering if that would help take some load off the rack/pinion teeth and engagement rod.

Yes, unless you are "off" on your timing, then it is harder. Really only bounces one time usually, so you have to be real quick on the re-engagement.

How many bearings are there under the top flange of the beam to keep the rack head running smooth and true? The SS has two each side. I asked DR about this earlier in the thread and didn't really understand their answer.

If I know what you are asking, there is one. At the rear of the ram, there is one mounted to a spring to keep the ram "floating". I assume this is to limit wear on the plate for returns. Once under load, the ram slides on the wear plate. I will look again for you though and try to get any pics I can. Here is an image from DR's website. Let me know if this is what you are talking about. If you go to their page, it is larger and clearer.

Have you guys had any problems sliding re-splits back over the cradel without actually lifting them or do you struggle with the bigger re-splits and/or actually have to lift 'em back into position? I ask b/c that could get tiring by the end of a long day of bigish wood, surely?

No, actually it is nice. Small enough (and angled) to slide back over, but large enough to keep rounds from rolling off.

 

[nysparkie]

Bounce

As far as Bounce. No issues at all. I don't even notice my hands and eyes are working so fast on the serious end.
Cradle. It is so little it hasn't hurt the process. Sometimes yes, you have to work, roll or use two hands to get
the chunck over the "rails". I suppose if they were that much of a bother to a owner he could just remove them.
I find it helps with the centering and holding full rounds from moving off the table if I turn to talk or stop for someother
task.
Yesterday I went out at the Buffalo Bills - NY Jets game 1/2 time. I split until it was fairly dark. Did not time myself
but did split this pile. Maybe 2:30/2:45Pm??? until 5:15/PM??? 3+ face splite ready for stacking.
View attachment 208933

Rubber



Yes



Yes, unless you are "off" on your timing, then it is harder. Really only bounces one time usually, so you have to be real quick on the re-engagement.



If I know what you are asking, there is one. At the rear of the ram, there is one mounted to a spring to keep the ram "floating". I assume this is to limit wear on the plate for returns. Once under load, the ram slides on the wear plate. I will look again for you though and try to get any pics I can. Here is an image from DR's website. Let me know if this is what you are talking about. If you go to their page, it is larger and clearer.

No, actually it is nice. Small enough (and angled) to slide back over, but large enough to keep rounds from rolling off.

 

[KiwiBro]

Thanks guys.

The bearings I'm referring to are those under the top flange of the beam that hold the rack head to the beam. Is there one or two per side? Thanks.

 

[D&B Mack]

The bearings I'm referring to are those under the top flange of the beam that hold the rack head to the beam. Is there one or two per side? Thanks.

Can you define what you mean by rack head? At the front, near the ram, there is only the one bearing on the spring as previously stated. Are you talking about the back end of the rack?

 

[KiwiBro]

Can you define what you mean by rack head? At the front, near the ram, there is only the one bearing on the spring as previously stated. Are you talking about the back end of the rack?

Put it this way; you've got the spring loaded bearing at the rack head rolling along the top flange of the beam. What's on the underside of the top flange that holds the rack head to the beam?

 

[D&B Mack]

Put it this way; you've got the spring loaded bearing at the rack head rolling along the top flange of the beam. What's on the underside of the top flange that holds the rack head to the beam?

Just metal to metal. The spring loaded bearing keeps it "floating" when not under load. Under the ram, there is a wear plate which pretty much only contacts under load. There is little to no friction when not under load.

 

[KiwiBro]

Sorry, I can't be explaining myself properly. I found an image online:

The SS has two bearings. DR are said to have copied SS. What do people think about this difference? DR don't think two each side are needed. I'm all for fewer components on anything when it doesn't sacrifice performance or durability. Why have two each side if only one is needed? With only one each side is the rack head going to pivot a little on return and unecessarily hasten the wear on the front of the brass bearing plate?

View attachment 209519

 

[sunfish]

Sorry, I can't be explaining myself properly. I found an image online:


The SS has two bearings. DR are said to have copied SS. What do people think about this difference? DR don't think two each side are needed. I'm all for fewer components on anything when it doesn't sacrifice performance or durability. Why have two each side if only one is needed? With only one each side is the rack head going to pivot a little on return and unecessarily hasten the wear on the front of the brass bearing plate?

The standard J model SS has only one bearing on each side, while the HD model has two per side. I have the J with only one bearing and have had no issues. I actually don't see why two would be better. Also, Paul at SS told me one bearing works just fine and so far he's right.

 

[KiwiBro]

The standard J model SS has only one bearing on each side, while the HD model has two per side. I have the J with only one bearing and have had no issues. I actually don't see why two would be better. Also, Paul at SS told me one bearing works just fine and so far he's right.

Thanks for that. Have you ever had the brass bearing plate off and if so was there any pattern to the wearing? Any front wear bias? Call me simple but if one's all that's needed then two's one too many in my book.

Come to think of it, how long do those brass wear plates actually last? 1000 cord or more?

 

[nysparkie]

Brass lasting

Thanks for that. Have you ever had the brass bearing plate off and if so was there any pattern to the wearing? Any front wear bias? Call me simple but if one's all that's needed then two's one too many in my book.

Come to think of it, how long do those brass wear plates actually last? 1000 cord or more?

I don't know but on a DR Website video they have a pro firewood processor stating: He doesn't own a hydraulic splitter anymore & His Rapid Fire's (Owns several) has split 7 to 8 thousand cords (Probably face cord) without replacing the rack and pinion. I would have to guess that the brass bearing plate would last for several thousand cord as well. Just opinion for I have only split 30 face so far.

 

[nysparkie]

TSC Speeco

I don't wish any bad luck. We are all woodies here in some degree or another. I have been watching the Speedco Kinetic Splitter server and they are having issues with the hardening of the ram and some teeth on the engagement gear. I am feeling bad for em. A few have dissed me over there stating I was just gloating. A few stated it was a $$$ thing why they bought the China Made SpeedCo. That I can understand and sympathize with. If I had known TSC was selling a Kinetic Splitter one week earlier than I did find out, I may have purchased one. I had already bought the RapidFire by that time. I sit here putting my hand on my heart and say Whooooo, boy that was close. I guess there is a recall for the TSC machine until a fix can be engineered for the heat treatment of metal of some sort of redesign - whatever. They are into talking about what hand tools or cars you buy and what you get your money worth from. I thank my lucky stars I decided to raid my retirement account and put the 800.00 extra dollars on a RapdiFire(SO FAR). Not a hic-cup or a fart of a problem and it just keeps on whacking away. I am amazed at how little fuel it sucks to. My 27 Ton Troy-bilt with a 5HP Honda eats twice as much fuel as this 6HP Subaru. --- I just can't get over that no hitch thing and am still working on a solution. Oh Well 34 months to go on that free warranty. Hi Ho, Hi Ho off to work I go.

 

[sunfish]

Thanks for that. Have you ever had the brass bearing plate off and if so was there any pattern to the wearing? Any front wear bias? Call me simple but if one's all that's needed then two's one too many in my book.

Come to think of it, how long do those brass wear plates actually last? 1000 cord or more?

I've not had the brass plate or ram off mine. The brass plate does not make contact with the beam all the time, it floats above it, with around .030"+/- clearance. The spring/bearing assembly behind the ram head holds it up off the beam. I believe it'd take a few thousand cords before much wear is noticed. Then the only problem would be more clearance for wood slivers to get caught under it.

 

[indiansprings]

After getting and watching the DVD on the DR the only real issue I see is the poor turds who buy them on DR's credit plan. After your 6 month no interest period you revert to something like 24.99% interest on the unpaid balance.lol You either pay cash for them or they will wind up costing some poor soul 6 or 7 grand on the payment plan. It's legalized loan sharking.

 

[nysparkie]

DR Credit

After getting and watching the DVD on the DR the only real issue I see is the poor turds who buy them on DR's credit plan. After your 6 month no interest period you revert to something like 24.99% interest on the unpaid balance.lol You either pay cash for them or they will wind up costing some poor soul 6 or 7 grand on the payment plan. It's legalized loan sharking.

Ya...except for Car Manufacture's, many companies are doing the same thing. I bought a new Star Stratoliner and was surprised that it had a fixed rate over the length of the loan...3.9% for 36 months. Of course if you miss a payment...KABOOM 27.5%.

Why would DR Homeproducts be any different:msp_mad: Everyone will smack the little guy around if it means more $$$ on the bottom line.

 

[Dozer Man]

Just some fyi...DR copied the "J" model, not the "HD" model of the SS. That's from Paul @ SS.

 

[nysparkie]

J or HD Model

Just some fyi...DR copied the "J" model, not the "HD" model of the SS. That's from Paul @ SS.

So, Bet you Paul stands by his J Models as much as his HD ones. IF RapidFire is copied after the "j", imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
Nice to see ya Dozer. Really. Remember #2 !