DR Rapid Fire Rack & Pinion

[D&B Mack]

Smaller flywheel diameter, smaller HP, but still doesn't seem quite right in terms of equivalent force. $900 price difference makes my antenna crackle into life. Perhaps there are other things not immediately obvious from the spec sheet? Are they taking a hit on the lower priced model, or have so much fat in the higher priced model they can afford to drop $900 for something that seems on paper costs them only a wee bit less to produce?

I didn't catch the flywheel diameter. But the flywheel is the same weight.

The pricing is confusing...

Here is the pricing from the new model page:

5.5hp DR Manual-Start RapidFire Log Splitter

# WDSRXA - List Price: $2,399.99
Sale $1,799.99
Estimated Shipping: $199.00

5.5hp Pro DR Manual-Start RapidFire Log Splitter w/Tray

# WDSRTA - Price: $2,699.99
Estimated Shipping: $228.99

Here is the pricing from the original version page:

6 HP Subaru Manual-Start RapidFire Log Splitter

# WDSRXXM - List Price: $2,799.99
Sale $2,199.99
Estimated Shipping: $199.00

6 HP Subaru Electric-Start RapidFire Log Splitter

# WDSRXXE - List Price: $2,999.99
Sale $2,399.99
Estimated Shipping: $199.00

6 HP Subaru Manual-Start RapidFire Log Splitter W/Table

# WDSRTXM - List Price: $3,099.98
Sale $2,399.98
Estimated Shipping: $228.99

6 HP Subaru Electric-Start RapidFire Log Splitter W/Table

# WDSRTXE - List Price: $3,299.98
Sale $2,599.98
Estimated Shipping: $228.99

 

[KiwiBro]

I didn't catch the flywheel diameter. But the flywheel is the same weight.

The pricing is confusing...

Here is the pricing from the new model page:



Here is the pricing from the original version page:

Weird.

 

[lakesideC1]

Weird.

I agree Weird !

As much as DR seems to have there act together. I am still very happy I got my splitter directly from the man who made it, Paul at Super Splitter. Made the way I want it in the USA.

 

[mikereynolds]

Mine's down too with broken rack teeth.

First, the ram head snapped off. Got a replacement model.

Second, rack would not remain engaged to pinion. To get repaired would have been two weeks. I figured out that the adjustment bolt was moving, fixed that myself.

Now, rack won't engage pinion. It is properly adjusted, rack and pinion look ok. Can't figure out what is wrong. It is sitting at the shop waiting for repairs.

I haven't been using it all that much as it has too much trouble splitting green wood and wood with twisted grain so I have gone back to my "Old Reliable home made virtical splitter" But when I got some soft wood in to split I fired it up only to find the rack had several broken teeth. Now like you, my splitter is waiting in the shop. I have to wait till tomorrow to make another warranty claim also...Seriously thinking of taking them up on the return policy. and calling Paul. They have always stepped up to the plate which is the foremost reason I chose DR but I need my splitter to split wood ALL THE TIME!

 

[north1]

uff it seems that only Paul makes good kinetic splitters
can anyone measure me how is the distance between the head and the ax when the bar in the external position
thanx

 

[north1]

please
can anyone measured distance between ax and rack in the working position :msp_smile:

 

[D&B Mack]

please
can anyone measured distance between ax and rack in the working position :msp_smile:

clarify, and I will tonight.

 

[north1]

What is the distance between spliting vedge and ram when the ram is at the end of its stroke

 

[lakesideC1]

What is the distance between splitting wedge and ram when the ram is at the end of its stroke

My J model is 25 1/4 inches from the wedge to the ram.

Note: Paul's website Super Split(R) Specifications list "Log Length: 25" or LESS"

How's the weather down there ?

 

[north1]

thanx

far too warm to 38 C

 

[NHMike]

Newbie here.....I have been in the market for a splitter for quite some time. After researching the Super Split and Rapid Fire, I finally pulled the trigger and got the Rapid Fire last Friday. I got a deal that I just couldn't pass up.

I was amazed at the amount of wood that I was able to split. There is no way I could have matched that pile with the hydraulic splitter. I am looking at this to a big time saver for me. I will post some pics and hopefully a video if I can figure that out.

I did come across a couple logs with knots that did not split. I retracted the ram and hit it a second time and was done. I am fortunate that most of the trees on my property are very straight. I have moslty red oak, black cherry, black birch, ash and maple.

I am splitting wood for our house and my MIL. Although I may start selling some on the side.

The splitter just ate everything I threw at it. I split VERY green logs, logs 4 months old and several 2 years old. Didn't matter, it just blwe threm them. I found the green popular to be pretty stringy though. I thought the green red oak would be stringy also from previous experience, but I had not issues with it.

 

[NHMike]

I know...no pics, it didn't happen.

Here is my first pile.....with lots more to come :hmm3grin2orange:View attachment 253100

 

[Locust Cutter]

I know...no pics, it didn't happen.

Here is my first pile.....with lots more to come :hmm3grin2orange:View attachment 253100

So THAT'S what straight grained wood looks like,... We don't have a lot of that in Eastern KS,...:taped::censored:

 

[Adelia473]

I guess no price on them yet that I can find anywhere. Has to be in the same range as the SS I would think.

 

[D&B Mack]

I know...no pics, it didn't happen.

Here is my first pile.....with lots more to come :hmm3grin2orange:View attachment 253100

I think someone was a little excited to use their new splitter... :wink2:

Didn't even take it off the delivery pallet... :msp_w00t:

 

[D&B Mack]

Done Again...

Well, going to waiting on repair parts again.

Can you find the bent parts?

Disassembled photos

 

[NHMike]

Actually, I left it on the pallet so I could move it around to different wood piles. I got the tow hitch, but I need to modify it for the tractor before I can use it.

I just picked it up with the pallet forks, chained it to the bucket and I was off.

What are those parts that bent, where are they located so I can keep an eye on them.

 

[D&B Mack]

What are those parts that bent, where are they located so I can keep an eye on them.

Just got off the phone with DR, they are the same parts the repair shop ordered last time. All you have to do is tell them the internal lever parts are bent and they will know the part #'s.

The tech that was on the phone said it is most often from people not letting go of the lever when it reaches the end of the cycle and the rear of rack hitting the bearing upon return. However, I rarely ever go full cycle since the oak and ash tend to "pop" earlier on. And I always let go of the lever. So not really sure this time, no catastrophic failure. It was just getting worse, so I tore it down and found the bent parts.

My parts are on the way, DR has great customer service.

 

[KiwiBro]

My parts are on the way, DR has great customer service.

Here's hoping they manage to beef up those parts and you don't need to rely on the customer service again.
My SS won't stay engaged all the time nowadays, without some very light pressure on the handle. I wonder if I've bent something like the engage bearing lever pins. Have been seeking the nastiest gum and knotty old man pine to see what it can handle and have given it a hard time (multiple engagements to get through some rounds, a few time having to stop engine and sledgehammer a round off the wedge or chainsaw it off the wedge).

Had one time when it locked up on a nasty, but instead of the clutch disengaging, the belts slipped and kept slipping and boy did they smoke before I could get back around the machine to shut her down.

Good luck with your new parts. At least DR have good service, but the best service is one you don't need to use I guess.

Thanks for keeping us informed.

I notice the stop for the engagement on your DR is adjustable. I can't recall seeing that on the SS. I suppose it would be good to fine tune how far over-centre the bearing goes? Although too far and it won't pop out in a hurry, which is probably not a good thing.

 

[north1]

D&B Mack

my greetings

can you measure the thickness of the shaft, which is the bend

My main axis in the mechanism is 20mm thick and the other with rollers is 15 mm and up to now it did not bend I treats the machine with the worst wood that I found