Drilling out the bar's oil hole

[James Miller]

I'm sure the EPA is making them reduce the amount of bar oil. But I'd bet my 590 will oil a 32 better then my 7910 and that's a problem to me. If echo can put an oiler like that on a 60cc economy saw why can't husky,stihl,or dolmar put a decent oiler on a saw that's designed to pull a bar like that.

 

[Canyon Angler]

It seems not that long ago I remember reading in a chainsaw owner's manual that oil should fly off the bar tip copiously when you rev it. Like, it should paint a stripe on the wall.

It also seems like the manual said something to the effect of, "the oil is supposed to stick to the chips and vice versa and help throw them away from the bar and chain when it goes around the sprocket." Chips seem pretty dry nowadays.

Had an old Craftsman saw from the late 80s and that saw pretty much used a tank of oil per tank of fuel. My Dolmar (about 15 years old) isn't far off from that, even on the "minimum oil" setting.

On the other hand, my 361 probably burns 10 tanks of fuel (or more) per tank of oil with a 20" bar. It's bad because you get tempted not to check it, which leads to neglect, forgetfulness and burned bars...

 

[Sagetown]

It seems not that long ago I remember reading in a chainsaw owner's manual that oil should fly off the bar tip copiously when you rev it. Like, it should paint a stripe on the wall.

It also seems like the manual said something to the effect of, "the oil is supposed to stick to the chips and vice versa and help throw them away from the bar and chain when it goes around the sprocket." Chips seem pretty dry nowadays.

Had an old Craftsman saw from the late 80s and that saw pretty much used a tank of oil per tank of fuel. My Dolmar (about 15 years old) isn't far off from that, even on the "minimum oil" setting.

On the other hand, my 361 probably burns 10 tanks of fuel (or more) per tank of oil with a 20" bar. It's bad because you get tempted not to check it, which leads to neglect, forgetfulness and burned bars...

I hear that. Nearly burned up a new chain when I first got my MS 362 Opened the oiler up all the way after that. Now I get the stickiest oils I can find.

 

[scottr]

True!

Other bars not so. At least not the Forester bar I'm now drilling.

Have you measured the saw oiler slot width and location and the bar oil hole loation relative to the bar stud sholder ?

 

[jr27236]

I had a 262 and that thing just oiled like crap but after really cleaning the rail and making sure the hole was clear it was fine. The bar oil hole is so small and tends to get restricted fast preventing oiling properly.

 

[user 122190]

Yup. Bar maintenance is not to be skipped. Thems is expensive.

I had a 262 and that thing just oiled like crap but after really cleaning the rail and making sure the hole was clear it was fine. The bar oil hole is so small and tends to get restricted fast preventing oiling properly.

 

[user 122190]

No. IMO, til I cut again, the minor problem is solved.

Have you measured the saw oiler slot width and location and the bar oil hole loation relative to the bar stud sholder ?

 

[Bwildered]

Be proactive. Don't wait for the chain to greatly stretch and smoke before getting sufficient oil flowing.

Oil is cheap.

actually oil isn't that cheap, I'm proactive enough to know that just enough is enough & over oiling is like pouring good cold beer on the ground & we'd think anyone would be crazy for doing that sort of thing.

 

[Pine Marten]

How much is too much? That is the question.....
I've been thinking of taping or otherwise fastening a children's forehead thermometer tape to a bar, and noting the temperature near the sweet spot. That would seem to be the best way to determine if the bar is getting enough oil. If it gets hot, it is from excess friction, so more oil is needed. Plus it would look really "mad scientist techno-weird" to have a thermometer on the bar!

 

[scottr]

I don't know the range for forhead thermometer tape but if you stop the saw and place you finger on the inner race area of the sprocket bearing you'll be able to tell .

 

[V3_288xp]

Over the years using various branded saws, 1 tank oil: 1 tank fuel gives the best bar/chain life IMO.
I bought a new 28" HUSQ bar 2-3 yrs ago and noticed the oil hole was/is fairly small & angled fwd compared to
much older bars. Absolutely positive= US EPA & CARB has everything to do with limiting oil usage!
Surely the big Manf's aren't balking to hard, as they are selling tons more bars & chains.
With B&C prices like they currently are, its no surprise to me, supply & demand......
The faster folks burn em' up- demand & prices go up!
I drill them out, if they aren't running 1:1 on my saws.
Buying oil is cheaper than a new B&C every 1-2yrs to me, besides having to hunt 1 down.
See alot of burnt / crooked cuttin' bars in my neck of the woods, that I clean up & re-dress up & they work fine,
seems most folks don't maint their bars at allGlad to see most of you guys do!

 

[46 Poulan]

I like to see a good amount of oil on my bar/chain--saw that starts out with bare minimum of oil then oil hole a little blocked==chain/bar smoked. Not to mention sprocket bearing locked up..--David--Saws that Oil good 23 year old sears/poulan,621 jonsered, sxl 12 homelite, poulan 34-3700,john deere 61,echo cs590--------------------

 

[46 Poulan]

Over the years using various branded saws, 1 tank oil: 1 tank fuel gives the best bar/chain life IMO.
I bought a new 28" HUSQ bar 2-3 yrs ago and noticed the oil hole was/is fairly small & angled fwd compared to
much older bars. Absolutely positive= US EPA & CARB has everything to do with limiting oil usage!
Surely the big Manf's aren't balking to hard, as they are selling tons more bars & chains.
With B&C prices like they currently are, its no surprise to me, supply & demand......
The faster folks burn em' up- demand & prices go up!
I drill them out, if they aren't running 1:1 on my saws.
Buying oil is cheaper than a new B&C every 1-2yrs to me, besides having to hunt 1 down.
See alot of burnt / crooked cuttin' bars in my neck of the woods, that I clean up & re-dress up & they work fine,
seems most folks don't maint their bars at allGlad to see most of you guys do!

Well stated--Just when I think I have seen the worst maintained one-- it gets trumped by the next-paint burned blue all the way around bar rails-chain dull -sprocket worn slap out-sawdust/wood fiber packed-- run lean -------------------------------------------- fill in the blanks--total neglect--on a high end well made piece of machinery

 

[user 122190]

This is probably better suited to the task.

https://www.grainger.com/product/EXTECH-Backlit-LCD-Infrared-Thermometer-53PZ25

How much is too much? That is the question.....
I've been thinking of taping or otherwise fastening a children's forehead thermometer tape to a bar, and noting the temperature near the sweet spot. That would seem to be the best way to determine if the bar is getting enough oil. If it gets hot, it is from excess friction, so more oil is needed. Plus it would look really "mad scientist techno-weird" to have a thermometer on the bar!

 

[Pine Marten]

MontanaResident, this morning while making coffee, I thought..."hey, one of those infared thermometers would be way more practical". It would be handy for other stuff as well, like checkin' for a hot bearing, or electric motor running hot.

 

[user 122190]

It is now in my Amazon Wish List. For me finding cold spots in the house is worth the price. I found a bunch with my hands and have made significant strides in making my home more energy efficient. Might also work in diagnosing chimney problems, where creosote build up would act as an insulator, that the thermo might find before a serious problem occurs.

Amazon's best seller. Hell $26, and no doubt I'll find other uses for it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI62HM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A99MZGWBBIGK9&psc=1

MontanaResident, this morning while making coffee, I thought..."hey, one of those infared thermometers would be way more practical". It would be handy for other stuff as well, like checkin' for a hot bearing, or electric motor running hot.

 

[Canyon Angler]

You'll find plenty of uses. I use mine all the time, especially in winter to monitor woodstove. Also good for checking the smoker temp, engine temps on boats and trucks, weld preheat temps, baseboard HW pipe temps, teasing dogs and cats by getting them to chase "the red spot on the floor," etc. Just keep the laser away from their eyes!

 

[Brent Nowell]

I'm not buying Stihl's velocity theory. A restricted orifice will decrease flow...think a smaller main jet, or the flow restriction nozzle on a faucet. Increasing the volume of oil pumped per rev of the pump will deliver more oil. Removing a restriction (tiny bar hole getting drilled larger) will boost flow as well. I'll have to measure the oil passage to see what diameter it is. That would be a good drill size to use on the bar.

I doubt it will result in a bar oiling too much, which would be indicated by the oil tank going empty before the gas tank. I'm tempted to blame European Eco activists/Gov types for whimpy oiling!!!

Well I know that if pressure is the same, restricting the diameter of a pipe increases velocity.
This in theory should increase the speed of the oil spray to the bar, possibly better for lubricating both sides of the drive tang on the chain. This of course doesn’t mean more oil, just a faster flow of oil.

I just ran my pro bar with the small hole and i noticed that the bar was getting a decent amount of oil, but it does seem less than the standard stock bar.
Interesting to note that my stock bar always had ridges forming on the side opposite of the Oiler hole...
so maybe a coincidence or maybe it serves a better purpose

 

[Pine Marten]

The chain needs oil. The velocity of the oil is irrelevant. Restricting the oil passage at the bar reduces the amount of oil delivered to the bar over time (oz/min or whatever). Added to this is the fact that Stihl bars oil only when the clutch engages and the chain moves, so the flow during idle times is lost to lube the chain during a lull in cutting.

 

[Ketchup]

I milled out a stihl bar that was 3003 to fit a 3002 mount. I had to drill a new oiler hole so I doubled the size. The bigger hole sits a little lower than the bottom of the trough, so it oils the far side better. I also hit the outside of the hole with the foredom grinder and shaped it into an oval shaped funnel.
It works a little too well. It can spray oil out the chain (where it leaves the clutch cover) if I turn it up. Thats a 36" bar on an 880. Sometimes I still wish I had an auxiliary oiler for milling dry wood.
X2 on using sticky oil. Flinging it off the bar end doesn't get it back to the dawgs.