IyaMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
(This will be re-posted in the "chainsaw" forum as it applies to both)
I was curious about the durability and strength of WoodlandPro bars. I got the bar with a husky saw from Baileys, and its a "Powermax RSN" large mount, .050. It has a separate nose section (as in, its not all one piece). Its fairly new, about a month old.
I ask this because I am attaching a Granberg mill. At first I noticed that the screw pinches against the bar with the mill were marking the bar (digging in hardly a millimeter) and I thought it strange to be so soft to make such marks.... or maybe it was just me scoring the paint layer?.
Then a couple days ago I did a modification on the mill and drilled a hole through the center of the sprocket. I put in an 8mm hole (a bit less than 3/8 inch). To say the least, it drilled through much easier than expected. Now from researching here, I expected the bar to be pretty tough, especially the nose. People have said "use only carbide tip" or "use a concrete bit" and of course "use plenty of lubricant oil poured on while drilling". I will say I did use my drill press and knocked it down to the lowest drill speed (highest torque) setting, but I had none of the trouble anyone else mentioned. Definitely not "just about melted my bit".
Certainly it was hard metal, but my cheapo drill bit which came in a $10 set of 13 different sized bits (I think it says it made of 'colbolt alloy') had little of the trouble I imagined going through.
Are other people's bars made of adamantium or something? Why would anyone even consider using a concrete bit? (I can barely drill through soft-wood with one of them) And though I've used lubricant with high speed precision bits, whenever doing bigger holes (over 3mm or 1/8") I've never use oil unless its more than 3/4" deep (18mm). On wider holes I just slow the drill speed down and let the bit do its business on its own without forcing it. Never had any unmanageable issues (though I do freehand sharpen bits now and then on my grinder).
Or is my WoodlandPro bar particularly soft? Granted this isn't a Shindaiwa hard nosed bar, but I was expecting a bit more resistance. Has anyone had much long-term durability trouble with WoodlandPro bars? Bending/warping issues? Sprocket malfunction? Uneven wear or deformation? Any input welcome. Thanks.
I was curious about the durability and strength of WoodlandPro bars. I got the bar with a husky saw from Baileys, and its a "Powermax RSN" large mount, .050. It has a separate nose section (as in, its not all one piece). Its fairly new, about a month old.
I ask this because I am attaching a Granberg mill. At first I noticed that the screw pinches against the bar with the mill were marking the bar (digging in hardly a millimeter) and I thought it strange to be so soft to make such marks.... or maybe it was just me scoring the paint layer?.
Then a couple days ago I did a modification on the mill and drilled a hole through the center of the sprocket. I put in an 8mm hole (a bit less than 3/8 inch). To say the least, it drilled through much easier than expected. Now from researching here, I expected the bar to be pretty tough, especially the nose. People have said "use only carbide tip" or "use a concrete bit" and of course "use plenty of lubricant oil poured on while drilling". I will say I did use my drill press and knocked it down to the lowest drill speed (highest torque) setting, but I had none of the trouble anyone else mentioned. Definitely not "just about melted my bit".
Certainly it was hard metal, but my cheapo drill bit which came in a $10 set of 13 different sized bits (I think it says it made of 'colbolt alloy') had little of the trouble I imagined going through.
Are other people's bars made of adamantium or something? Why would anyone even consider using a concrete bit? (I can barely drill through soft-wood with one of them) And though I've used lubricant with high speed precision bits, whenever doing bigger holes (over 3mm or 1/8") I've never use oil unless its more than 3/4" deep (18mm). On wider holes I just slow the drill speed down and let the bit do its business on its own without forcing it. Never had any unmanageable issues (though I do freehand sharpen bits now and then on my grinder).
Or is my WoodlandPro bar particularly soft? Granted this isn't a Shindaiwa hard nosed bar, but I was expecting a bit more resistance. Has anyone had much long-term durability trouble with WoodlandPro bars? Bending/warping issues? Sprocket malfunction? Uneven wear or deformation? Any input welcome. Thanks.
