Drying Firewood Inside vs Outside

[Goon 88]

I have a bunch of firewood that I need to get drying. Will it be better to stack it inside in my dry, walkout basement or outside under the deck? I hope to get 6 or 7 cord in the next few weeks ready for next year and don't want to have any wood that is not seasoned to burn next year. I ran out this year and have been burning straight ash for the last month. ANy information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I store a good bit of wood and it's all inside. With that said, I'd be leary of storing inside your house over the summer for the bug factor. They'll hatch out out and if there are termites that's a whole 'nother can of worms.

I learned long ago if you are planning on the long haul with wood burning a dedicated outbuilding is worth the effort. probably not want you want to hear but I think you can see it. Kevin

 

[time warp]

I built 2 out building last summer to keep my wood dry, best thing I ever did. I agree on the bug thing especially bringing really fresh green wood inside the house to season.My cousin had a big ant problem in the house doing that.

 

[wdchuck]

Since its for next season, then take advantage of the three in front of you:

Get it out, off the ground(on pallets), in single rows or well spaced double rows. In the full sun, full wind exposure to remove as much moisture as possible.

Come September, put a lid on it, like some tin(corrugated roofing), even used from a local steel yard(its dirt cheap if used).

A tarp is okay, but since it doesn't breath, avoid any overhang more than 6".
If you can put pallets on top of your wood stacks, then plywood, then a tarp, you will have coverage, and airflow to prevent any excess moisture from hanging around.

If you put a tarp or just get a cheap roll of 3mil plastic to put on the ground first, then pallets, then the wood, you'll eliminate a large portion of your moisture sources.

Sun and wind are your assets.

Once you've had a ' killing frost' then bring in your wood as you see fit, but allow at least one week for the wood to thaw out indoors to get the greatest benefit. If you want to see this phenomena, just bring in a piece now, and watch it every 24hrs, its amazing how much atmoshperic moisture comes out in 3-5days, and how many more btus you will realize when you let it sit.

Good luck with this.

In the future, try your best to have one seasons wood spare, and one in the ready.

 

[Woodchip1]

Think about how fast the dew dries off grass in the summer with a little wind.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Since its for next season, then take advantage of the three in front of you:

Get it out, off the ground(on pallets), in single rows or well spaced double rows. In the full sun, full wind exposure to remove as much moisture as possible.

Come September, put a lid on it, like some tin(corrugated roofing), even used from a local steel yard(its dirt cheap if used).

A tarp is okay, but since it doesn't breath, avoid any overhang more than 6".
If you can put pallets on top of your wood stacks, then plywood, then a tarp, you will have coverage, and airflow to prevent any excess moisture from hanging around.

If you put a tarp or just get a cheap roll of 3mil plastic to put on the ground first, then pallets, then the wood, you'll eliminate a large portion of your moisture sources.

Sun and wind are your assets.

Once you've had a ' killing frost' then bring in your wood as you see fit, but allow at least one week for the wood to thaw out indoors to get the greatest benefit. If you want to see this phenomena, just bring in a piece now, and watch it every 24hrs, its amazing how much atmoshperic moisture comes out in 3-5days, and how many more btus you will realize when you let it sit.

Good luck with this.

In the future, try your best to have one seasons wood spare, and one in the ready.

Wdchuck's got it down pat. Lotsa sun, open to the wind, don't stack row upon row together if you can avoid it. I stacked some 3 rows deep last year, and you could tell the difference in the center row.

Here's a shot of my stacks for next year. Stacked in double rows to save a little space, running north to south to get as much sun as possible, and to catch the prevailing west winds, with about 12' between rows to get trucks, tractor, etc through without trouble. Notice the 4x4s leaned up on the pile, that's what I stack on. Get them free from work.

I keep up to 2 cords inside during winter, but I don't haul it in until after frost. Bugs generally are not much trouble with seasoned wood, but you're asking for it bringing in that amount of green wood.

 

[davec]

Let me throw one more wrinkle into this. Drying wood means the moisture comes out of the wood (obviously...) into the surrounding environment. So if you are drying it indoors, all that moisture will go into your indoor air and the house stucture. That's a recipie for mold, rot and indoor air quality problems.

Much better off getting the bulk of the moisture driven out of it outdoors than indoors.

-Dave

 

[pucksaw]

I have been at it 10 years now, wish I would have discovered this site long ago. I have experianced the ant problem, which was no fun, have ran out a few times. Like I said 10 years at it, and this is the first year that I am ahead of the game. i will have a few chord left over this year and have next years wood waiting. Shortly I will start getting at the wood I will use two years from now. The farther ahead the better.
Have to say all the above advice seems bang on.

 

[Austin1]

I have a bunch of firewood that I need to get drying. Will it be better to stack it inside in my dry, walkout basement or outside under the deck? I hope to get 6 or 7 cord in the next few weeks ready for next year and don't want to have any wood that is not seasoned to burn next year. I ran out this year and have been burning straight ash for the last month. ANy information would be greatly appreciated.

You must have one heck of a big basement if you can store 6 or 7 cords lol. I hear some hard wood takes up to two years to dry?,I don't have that problem as everything here has needles on it and if I have my wood cut&split by the end of March I am good to go for the coming winter. I stack outside facing the South. I live in a area with very low humidity so for me I am okay with 9 months drying time.But I am sure if Oak or Locust grew here it would dry just as fast in are low humidity once split, probably not smell as good though but I here it burns longer:hmm3grin2orange:
I cut wood last year in Sept it was down for at least a year and saw some big creepy looking bug's Wile loading and unloading my wood it was the first time I cut with out frost on the ground and was eaten alive by Mosquitoes so I am very Leary of bringing large amount's of wood into the house.We don't have Termites but do have big Ass wood ant's but they seem to only like Aspen or Poplar.
That wood that I cut in Sept was down and off the ground for over a year I cut it and split it right away it is perfect for burning now. It really depends on your wood and where you live. I have cut Poplar at the same Time as I have cut pine, the Poplar when green is much heavier but dry the pine is heavier and burns longer.The Poplar is all water.
I think your on track, my first year I was always cutting wood bone dry dead fall and could not believe how much I used. Second year I was a bit short on my winter wood Third year I finally hit it right and had enough, plus some green wood sitting on pallets come April.

 

[J.W Younger]

If you have the space a log single row from north to south where the morning sun hits one side and the afternoon the other will dry it the fastest.