Early 70s McCulloch Mac 10-10A not getting fuel.

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Aaron Rybicki

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[I apologize in advance for writing a novel, but I was trying to be as detailed as possible]

First time posting on this forum, so hello everyone. I have an early 1970s McCulloch Mac 10-10 Automatic chainsaw (according to the Mike Acres site). On his site it claims that the carburetor for my chainsaw model (600002U) and year (1971-1975) is fitted with a "Tillotson HS series (85720)". I find that interesting because the carburetor on mine is a Walbro SDC, which would have been on the previous years for the 10-10A (1967-1970). Not sure if this makes much of a difference, but that's just some additional information. So, here's the story.

Around April of 2014, my grandfather's basement became flooded from a burst pipe due to the cold weather. A couple of buddies of mine and myself sucked all the water up and cleaned that whole place out. Upon cleaning, we found this old McCulloch chainsaw that didn't get touched by the water. It had to have been sitting down there and not ran for god knows how long. I'm going to assume at least since the Early 90s. We took it outside, put some fresh gas in it and it fired up after about 7 or 8 pulls! Later that year in about June I used it to cut some firewood and it ran just fine.
June of 2014 was the last time it ran.

Fast-Forward to 2017 in the beginning of December and it still had the gas from 2014 in it.. The saw had just been put aside for the time being and kind of got forgotten about. I dumped the old gas out and put some fresh 40:1 in it. Pull after pull, it would not go. Compression seemed fine just by pulling and spark was good and blue. So my buddy and I figured it was a fuel issue. We sprayed some starting fluid down in the carb and every time we did that, the first pull, we'd get a good POP. A healthy pop too, like this sucker wants to run! But that's all we'd get and only with starting fluid or by dripping a little fuel in the carb with a straw. No throttle response from it though.

I took the saw to a local small mechanics shop and they determined that the saw need a new crankcase gasket as the old one was basically non-existent and was sucking air from that area. They handed it off to me and pretty much told me they didn't want to work on it unless I'm willing to dish out a lot of money. So my buddy and I tackled it ourselves (pictures included).

We tore it apart and split the saw in two. Due to the rarity of some McCulloch parts, I bought cork rubber gasket material and we made our own gaskets to seal up the crankcase. Both sides lined up perfectly. We slapped it all back together, threw some fresh fuel in and well... we're almost back to square one again..

Fuel is still not being sprayed into the cylinder. One MAJOR difference however, is when we put a couple straw fulls of fuel down in the carb, this thing doesn't just POP for a half-second like before, it runs for about 2-3 seconds off of that fuel AND there is NOW throttle response! Still sounds healthy as ever.

But then it shuts off.

I'm thinking that our homemade gasket job worked and sealed up that leak, but I believe there is either gunk in the carb, seizing the flow of fuel OR the carburetor is in need of a rebuild. We were going to tear into the carb tomorrow and try giving it a thorough cleaning if it is in decent condition and see if that helps.

I appreciate any feedback, suggestions or questions!
Thanks!

Check out my photo album of the saw below if you are interested.

[album=large]1856[/album]
 
I would recommend rebuilding the carb, the diaphragms are more than likely stiff. rebuild kits for carburetors are cheap, (usually around $10-$12) and easy to install.

May also want to check the fuel line and filter.

Sadly, a carb kit/cleaning is more than likely all the saw really needed in the first place.

BTW, welcome to the site.
 
Well great, now I feel like an idiot for using starting fluid at all.. Hopefully I didn't damage anything in the process...
But, I forgot to mention in the post that I replaced the fuel line and fuel filter today actually!

And I'm sort of hoping it just needs a cleaning because I'm not exactly sure which rebuild kit I need.
I'm not sure on the exact year of the saw or the Carb Model Number.

Possibly the Walbro SDC-3 used on the earlier models?

Was thinking about calling Walbro tomorrow as well and seeing if they could figure that one out for me.

I found some rebuild kits online but I don't really want to spend the money if it's for the wrong model.
 
Likely the little that you used the starting fluid would have caused no damage.

Carb kit part number for Walbro SDC carb is K10-SDC.
 
Numbers match. You have no idea how many people do the starting fluid on a 2-stroke. Now you know.
 
Well, it's been over a month since I last posted. I've been extremely busy with the Police Academy. About a week after the last post, I ordered that carb rebuild kit. It came and my buddy and I installed it. We noticed that there was a narrow channel or valley (whatever you call it) that was sealed off by a piece of gasket. I'm assuming that's where our problem was. We pulled it about 5 or 6 times and now this time, it won't even pop and the engine gets so flooded that fuel starts to leak out of the muffler.. Spark is still good. I am by no means a carb expert or know a whole lot about carburetors, but I'm assuming this has something to do with the jetting??

If not, I was also wondering if it might have something to do with the Metering Lever. We just sort of eye balled it when we replaced that (in reference to how the original one was set). If that's the problem, I'll go ahead and purchase that Walbro Metering Lever gauge.
 
I retested the spark on this saw and now I have no spark.. I noticed that the spark plug boot was slightly damaged around the opening where you insert the plug. I bought a new champion plug for it and tested it and still, no spark. Does anyone have any suggestions besides buying a whole new coil or is that solely my problem?
 
I know this thread is older than dirt but, this saw in particular, is running now with new internals. When I posted this, (merely a year ago) I didn't have the slightest idea on how a McCulloch Chainsaw worked or was built. These days, I'm a lot more fluent in McCulloch related mechanical problems at this point and how a 10 Series saw is put together. Nowhere near the McCulloch expert... But I am still learning new things every day. My Grandpa's saw got a new piston, rings, crank seals, fuel line, filter, gas tank sealed up, new air filter, clutch drums/bearing/bar & chain, log dogs, etc... Sucker is hungry! Brought his saw from 140PSI to 160PSI. I know 140 can still be considered healthy for an old mac but 160 is just that much better and peppy.
 
And honestly after all of that, I think what would've solved it all was setting the carb to "Factory standards" with 1, 1 1/2 turns out for both the High and the Low jet.
Did not know any better at the time.
 

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