Easy big gains for CS-590?

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I have had 15k+ out of the 620 coil bit no real power is made up that high.
Nice. Very true. I dont really see the point of getting a 620 coil for a 590 when in the cut rpm is always lower then there limit of free spin. Just doesn't justify the 100 bucks it costs but that's just me. Id rather put that towards a air filter upgrade and 2 ring pop up.
 
After modding my cs590, I can't help but wonder this: How much of this modding business is just a way to compensate for poor chain filing and weak cutting technique?

Modding is fun (and I love it), but I can't help but ask that questions. Are there more gains to be had from mastering the art of filing a chain than from modding the muffler, porting, etc?

Also, many of these modifications can decrease the lifespan of the saw. Yes, you gain power but often at the expense of the saw’s service life. The only exemption in my opinion is a carefully done muffler mod. Helps the saw run cooler.
 
After modding my cs590, I can't help but wonder this: How much of this modding business is just a way to compensate for poor chain filing and weak cutting technique?

Modding is fun (and I love it), but I can't help but ask that questions. Are there more gains to be had from mastering the art of filing a chain than from modding the muffler, porting, etc?

Also, many of these modifications can decrease the lifespan of the saw. Yes, you gain power but often at the expense of the saw’s service life. The only exemption in my opinion is a carefully done muffler mod. Helps the saw run cooler.
Fast chain will win every time. But more power is always more power.

I'd say it is probably 50/50

A good sharp chain will extend saw life as much as anything.
 
Fast chain will win every time. But more power is always more power.

I'd say it is probably 50/50

A good sharp chain will extend saw life as much as anything.
I do port work on my saws and for a few others but in the end on my saws keeping the filter clean, oil paths to the bar clear, good carb adjust and sharp chain is more important to me. I don't port my saw aggressive, I'm just looking for a good woods port on my saw when I'm done.
 
Amen brother. Same here. I’ve mentioned it before but my Mac 10-10 with her mods out cuts my buddies 361c. Yes, the Stihl is choked down with its sensitive ear muffler and fuel efficient timing and duration, but it’s still makes me laugh when that 54cc relic puts that high dollar 59cc saw to shame

the Mac cost me $40 but I will admit if I paid myself for the time I put in to it, then it might be be a little more. Good thing I’m cheap
Ask your buddy if he wants to trade that slow 361c for a ProMac55.
 
What brand Chinese saw?
I have a Blue Max new in the box. 🙄
"Mines a dereal pro 6220. I've done the basics to improve it and its pulling a 24in sthil chain on a echo bar. Through blackjack like a light saber." as quoted by K-tech

Simple google search revels a cool blue/white job (lol).. Btw, I wonder which model they copied? A zenoah/Redmax design? Stihl? A discontinued Husky model??? Thanks...
 
After modding my cs590, I can't help but wonder this: How much of this modding business is just a way to compensate for poor chain filing and weak cutting technique?

Modding is fun (and I love it), but I can't help but ask that questions. Are there more gains to be had from mastering the art of filing a chain than from modding the muffler, porting, etc?

Also, many of these modifications can decrease the lifespan of the saw. Yes, you gain power but often at the expense of the saw’s service life. The only exemption in my opinion is a carefully done muffler mod. Helps the saw run cooler.
I think keeping a sharp chain is the most important item on a saw cause like you said its going to cut faster but more importantly it will be safer. Learning how to effectively hand file is something I learned before I ever stepped into the 50+cc or mid sized class of saws. I learned by doing cause thats how I learn best and if you do it like alot of people which is sharpen after each tank of fuel. It doesn't take long to develop a technique that works very well. Everyone has a way of doing it there way but the fundamentals are the same. I enjoy it and like trying different things. I'm looking to try Square filing as soon as I find the right files. As far as mods. I'm pretty particular about going overboard on certain things with certain saws and the experience I have building motors helps me determine what might or might not be the best idea it i want to keep my saw reliable. Currently out of my 10 saws only 1 is completely modified as in nothing was left untouched. Its revs close to 17k and its more of something fun to get out once in awhile plus I paid 20 bucks for it so if it grenades oh well 30 for new motor lol. One of my daily firewood cutters has a nice 3 port muffler that I built, slightly bigger/flatter intake and exhaust ports(no timing changes), base gasket delete, intake manifold got opened up, lightened the piston and I reshaped the dome for a better collection of fuel mixture to plug and its just as and will continue to be as reliable as it was stock as long as I dont over rev it which is very easy to do. Saws are kinda the same deal. Certain ones you can get away with alot before significantly reducing its reliability and some you can't. Thats what keeps me coming back for more lol and they make me money so thats good. Lol
 
Hey all, I somewhat recently purchased a basically new CS-590 from a local pawn shop, (immaculate shape, guaranteed only used one time if at all, only payed 290$ for it.) And I'm trying to turn it into an east coast fallers type saw, I've got my dual spikes and full wrap aluminum handle with a 20" Tsumura solid core, but I want to go up to a 28" bar like the 620P, and I'd like to give my 590 a little more power to pull something like that, I'm not considering porting it at this time as I really don't want to ruin it because it runs great as is with a 20", I'm just wondering if a 620P Coil and carburetor really give it the gains it needs? I'm currently looking at popping the cylinder and swapping a Lil' red barn pop up 620P piston as I'm convinced that would give me that torque I need to run a bar like that comfortably.

Any input would be appreciated, Thanks.

(P.S. I did do a muffler mod, drilled a 3/8" hole to bypass the baffle and cut out some of the deflector shield.)View attachment 948534
Looks great man! Lemme ask, where did you get the full wrap handle and dogs? I just got a 590 myself and am looking to get the most out of it. I’m an East Coast guy too! 🤙
 
Looks great man! Lemme ask, where did you get the full wrap handle and dogs? I just got a 590 myself and am looking to get the most out of it. I’m an East Coast guy too! 🤙
Ebay from a store called the customer saw shop. His are the nice oversized ones for 25 bucks. Handles you can get lots of places. The dogs are worth there weight in gold. Could be a little thicker or better metal used either way they work great for bucking firewood
 
I believe a 28" bar on a 60cc saw is being overly optimistic, if you are needing a saw that will run a 28" regularly then you should check out the 7310.
A 28" on a 590 can be done if you keep in mind it's limitations.
Muffler mod and retune.
Max out the oiler and run a sharp full skip chain.
I set mine up very similar to the OP's with a 28" bar to fell large water oaks.
Once down a go back two a second 590 with a 20" bar for the rest of the work.
 
A 28" on a 590 can be done if you keep in mind it's limitations.
Muffler mod and retune.
Max out the oiler and run a sharp full skip chain.
I set mine up very similar to the OP's with a 28" bar to fell large water oaks.
Once down a go back two a second 590 with a 20" bar for the rest of the work.
I bought a 28 inch bar and chain for my Echo cs590 years ago. Yes, I turned the oiler wide open. I keep the bar groove clean and the chain sharp. Yes, I've cut some huge trees with it. I don't use it unless I need the longer bar. I prefere the 20 inch bar and chain. My way of keeping bars and chains oiled is Make sure it's oiling "BEFORE" I start cutting. IF,, It's a huge tree I'll back up on the cut for a second or two once in a while during the cut to give the oil time to get on the bar and also cool the bar. IF,, I believe the bar is not oiling well due to the OIL hole in the bar I will make mine a tad bigger. I've altered several bar oil holes. Sometimes, I alter only one hole and leave the other side stock. Good luck.
 

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